Do clutch pedals require more foot pressure to operate with time?
In January of 2012, I replaced the clutch in my 1989 2-door Sidekick but it remained difficult to operate and adjust. The clutch pedal kept engaging too close to the floor and the clutch chattered upon engagement.
Mid-year, I replaced a cracked clutch pedal mount but the foot pressure required to operate the clutch remained high. In July of 2012, I had to repair a crack in the firewall where the clutch cable flange was mounted.
Finally, over Thanksgiving, I ordered a new clutch kit and flywheel from Suzuki. After installation, the pedal pressure was very light and the clutch engagement was smooth. The old clutch and pressure plate turned out to be different from the new parts and may have been aftermarket parts. The old flywheel had been turned improperly earlier in the year and caused chattering.
It’s been almost two months since the new clutch kit was installed. For some reason, the foot pressure needed to operate it seems to be heavier. Am I imagining this or do pressure plate springs get stronger with time?
No they don't - I would suspect you have a clutch cable related issue - I notice you mention repairing a cracked firewall, but see no mention of the cable being replaced - a cracked firewall is a sure sign of a binding cable.
Disconnect the cable from the bellhousing end and dribble oil into it whilst working it back & forth to distribute the oil, if that eases the pressure required to operate, replace the cable.
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x2. The firewall mishap very definitely indicates a misadjusted clutch cable - the cable exerts an enormous amount of pressure and will do that to the firewall if not adjusted properly. Cable cannot be kinked, etc., and needs to work smoothly - it should never be difficult to depress the clutch pedal (and you also run the risk of ripping up the welds on the pedal itself, with the force of the poorly adjusted cable). You need to make sure that you also have the proper cable (your car, I believe, would not have the rubber housing at the tranny end, but the locknut application). XXX's one inch rule for the clutch cable should be confirmed and applied here - surely to be found on his new site.
i have your photos on my site. Thanks!
nasty deal there.
this happens because the pedal is a like 6:1 ratio (ase/sae basics)
and with 100 lbs on the pedal (or more if a HE-man) you get 600 lbs on the fire wall. ouch.
the classic, physics , bane....
Quote:
never make a systems with irresistible force against and immovable object.
a bad cable is that case. seized. or nearly.
and is so cheap to buy and so fast to change out. 1hr labor max, i can do it in 30min,
see my hard to buy parts, this cable is very tricky, and avoid all china clones of it.
noname clones.
see my hard to buy parts, this cable is very tricky, and avoid all china clones of it.
noname clones.
Unless my Sidekick is being repaired by a Suzuki dealership, I usually insist on ordering the Suzuki parts myself. Too often, a local garage will order "OEM parts" from those claiming to be original equipment manufacturers.
Is it possible that after a month, this new Suzuki clutch cable has stretched and made the pedal stiffer?
The cable is not stretching, it is cutting a groove into the inner casing. This creates friction and causes the issues you experience... Philip
Thanks, Philip, for the explanation. In your experience, how long does the inner casing of a genuine Suzuki clutch cable last? Are there more durable cables than the Suzuki cable?
Thanks, Philip, for the explanation. In your experience, how long does the inner casing of a genuine Suzuki clutch cable last? Are there more durable cables than the Suzuki cable?
Stay away from the fleabay clones, use genuine Suzzi cables... Philip
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