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Old 01-18-2013, 08:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Brake light on dash want go off

Ok guys I realize the brake light on dash has four functions and I have unplugged the emergency brake light switch, the abs at diff and the low brake fluid sensor and the pressure sensor at distrubution block on driver fender well. The light still glows. when you first turn key on the light comes on and goes off then immediately comes back on. Never shuts off Any ideas?
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'll assume you're talking about your SideKick. If you have RWAL, pull any codes from the brake control module (not the ECM) to see what's wrong.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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First idea is to put the specs of your car into your signature, so we all know what you are driving! If you have RWAL (which is not true ABS) first off is to check the brake fluid in the master cylinder. The brake light is extremely sensitive to any reduction in brake fluid. Often just topping up the master cylinder will get the light to go off. Otherwise, you can check to see if the RWAL computer has codes in it. There is a diagnostic connector for the brake computer that can be jumped for codes to flash out. Will search for a photo for it, for you. But check the fluid first - if your brakes are working ok, then chances are that this is the problem.
If you have ABS, disregard all the above!
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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So I finally got around to check on this brake light. So i disconected the rwal module and light went off. I pulled the code and got code seven which is shorted isolation solenoid circuit. I unplugged isolation solenoid and checked all resistances and they were in spec. so Im guessing I got a short in the harness. any Ideas
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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RWAL ( here are my notes )

http://www.fixkick.com/RWAL/new-pdf-2011/RWAL-doc1.pdf

i think its saying, part 13 the relay is bad, the coil 15 is shorted.
replace it. or check the 2 coils.
see my pdf.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Resistance should be between 3-6 ohms on the connector terminals (between green and black wire pins). If resistances were all good, then check the green wire - you may have a short there.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Bex;359390]Resistance should be between 3-6 ohms on the connector terminals (between green and black wire pins). Ifstances were all good, then check the green wire - you may have a short there.[/
I checked all resistance going to valve and they were to spec. (Also looks like po already replaced it due to this problem) green to ground was 3.8 and white to ground 1.5 and blue to ground was no continuity. Checked resistance going back to rwal ecu and read blue was open and green was is 7.81kohms and white was 7.81kohms and black is .1 ohms.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Once you turn the ignition key to the off position, the codes in the brake computer clear, and the brake light should go out. Did it do this? You advise that you disconnected the RWAL connector to the computer before trying to get the codes, and the light went off, no?? I am not sure how this impacts any codes that you would get after reconnecting it, or even if the code 7 would flash because of this. In normal testing of the RWAL, with the key on and brake lamp on (and parking brake off) the first test is to disconnect the differential switch connector on the left hand side of the engine near the strut tower and see if the lamp remains on, rather than disconnecting the RWAL connector completely from its computer.
In any event, once your key is off, the code clears, so is the light off now, or has it come back on again?
Just for your info FSM procedure for code 7:
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Brake light on dash want go off-brake-code-7.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I Have had all switches disconnected parking brake, fluid level differntial swicth and rwal switch at the rear end. The only way light will go out is if. You disconnect rwal plug at ecu. With it disconnected you can pull parking brake and brake light will come on. I think I have a bad rwal ecu
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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many here replace the caps in the RWAL
and for the same reason on ECU
bad Rubicons.

look in side.

same with TCM.

baked dry, electrolytic caps.
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