H20A big-end bearing shell thickness? (1996 Vitara)

[techedge]

Middle of 2012 I bought a 2.0 V6 LWB with a noisy timing chain (it was going well enough to load onto a trailer). I just got around to pulling the engine and replaced all the timing chains using some of the excellent info here. I was ready to bolt on the sump and wondered why there was a bit of noise coming from the bottom-end when turning it over by hand (I was oiling the new chains). Anyway, it would appear the previous owner was not too honest and I suspect he'd run it dry (or perhaps a bit of plastic from the chain guides got stuck in the front seal (seal was almost hanging out, turning in timing cover!).

Anyway, the big ends are quite loose (they rattle with very light finger pressure) and my Plastigauge tells me it's more than 0.25mm clearance (wear limit is 0.09mm!). The shells are showing classic signs of stress but the crankshaft looks good (I've only looked at one big-end and am yet to accurately measure the crankshaft, but it's close to 50.00mm).

My question is - what is the thickness of a standard (SV620 big-end) shell?

On my distressed shell I'm measuring 1.44mm to 1.46mm (this is a difference measurement with a micrometer using a 5mm drill bit on the concave surface, not with calipers!). I'm wondering if a set of standard big-end shells will give me a reasonable clearance for it to be worth my while to bolt it together and worry about either ditching it, or maybe a complete rebuild when I have more time. I bought this as very occasional off-roader, but reliability is a key requirement.

[fordem]

I'm somewhat puzzled by this question - you have excessive big end clearance - the norm is to take two measurements of the crank journal at right anges to one another (to determine ovality) and based on how out of round it is, and also the actual diameter, you make a decision on whether to grind or not.

If I assume you have the "most loose" rod open, just measure the journal diameter and compare it to the FSM numbers and you'll know if you can get just replace the bearings.

[xxx]

take the crank to any machine shop , that does total engine builds.
they grind cranks
in 10 mins, the crank man will tell you the truth.
it only takes mikes, nothing else.
since the shells are gone, then measuring them is a waste of time,,,,
he will say, its ready ground 0 to x times.
or say if its good for any size. or not.
let it do it, its free.

the above assumes it dont need a line bore.... that too can be an issue,
especially if it ever overheated.
let it do all the measurements if not with a full set if mikes, and bore gauges.
i have a page.
on the checks.

i did it all cept the block align check
1.6l but same tactics.
How I rebuilt my block


my crank had the end marks for the partial size bearings sizes.
not sure if suzuki did that on yours.
no spalling/fretting ,etc in the saddles. if yes, say so.

no rods blue, if blue they are overheated and annealed, junk.
same with mains. (signs of heating. or damage anywhere in the saddle.