running rich, engine missing, little to no power

[3000gt97vr4]

Love this site. I just bought a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 16 valve 4x4 the other day. as you can see from the title the vehicles barely runs. the previous owners replaced many parts and I'm stumped as well. I pulled the check engine light code and I got code 14, 21, 45, 53. The previous owner did replace to throttle positioning sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. I am concerned that the EC M is no longer working however the vehicle does crank right up but has little power.
I guess my question is where do I start I am curious to see what you think as to if I need to go ahead and replace the EC M. the compression was checked and each cylinder was120 or above

[Bex]

You first need to confirm that the car is timed and tuned properly - the ECU will not pick up on bad timing.
Do a compression test, with the gas pedal at wide open throttle while you are cranking. You are shooting for psi on each cylinder of about 170 or so. If you get considerably less than this on all cylinders, then your car is not timed properly. Post your results.
In the meantime, as well, write down the codes that you have, and then clear them by removing the fuse for the dome light for a minute. Then replace, and run the car again, and see what codes come back. Some of the codes that you have posted here might be codes that are in memory.
If the check engine light is lit with the key on, and off when running or if it is blinking and giving you codes, normally this means that the ECU is doing its job. However, most 1995 and earlier Trackicks have had to change out 3 of the capacitors in the ECU, at some point or another. It's a $5 fix.

[xxx]

X2
NEED ECU PARTNUMBER, THAT BE FIRST. im hoping its the wrong ECU. and not blown up. sure bad caps can set 53s, (bad power is on fail for 53)

Originally Posted by 3000gt97vr4

Love this site. I just bought a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 16 valve 4x4
what tranny?
what door count?


the other day. as you can see from the title the vehicles barely runs. the previous owners replaced many parts and I'm stumped as well.

I pulled the check engine light code and I got code 14, 21, 45, 53.
that 53 is big deal bad, wrong ECU !
PO(mad) diseased. 53 means bad ecu, or PO put a cal ecu in a fed car
or a fed ecu in a cal car. see, yes we can fool it, but why do that.
ask , if need be.

The previous owner did replace to throttle positioning sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. I am concerned that the EC M is no longer working however the vehicle does crank right up but has little power.
ECT has 2 pins, not 1
the error means, the the ECT is reading colder that the coldest place on planet earth. (the wire are open) or the ground wire to this chain if senors is cut.
see my bad ground page. for the critical sensors.



I guess my question is where do I start I am curious to see what you think as to if I need to go ahead and replace the EC M. the compression was checked and each cylinder was120 or above

as in all car repair, find out what it IS first.
sidekicks are tad harder than trackers, (no rpo codes)
what is the vin.
open hood look up , see white sticker, that is the USA sticker
does calif. show in any line , usually down low? vacuum map.
what is your ECU pn,


see gray-yellow wire there, is it cut?
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-...-size-huge.png

the 16v has a wide number of ecu 92to 98
but less for 92-95

you did not spec out the car, yet
so you can look up your own ECU.

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96...95/89-95NA.pdf


14 ect wire fell off (or the equiv)
21 tps stuck high, ground fell of tps or bad tps. (TP PIN)
45 Idle Switch Circuit , grounded all the time. Part of TPS sensor. (too low) or Maladjusted. (idle switch stuck low)
53 bad news. (bad power to ecu, bad ecu, bad memory in ecu, wrong ecu, never mix cal cars with fed cars.) tell ecu part number 58Bxx? (last 5 digits) and if US MT or US AT tagged.

id bet if car was driven any distance you would get even more DTC errors.
VSS? dead too?

G100 to G110? LOOSE OR NOT BOLTED DOWN?

http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly...-failures.html

[Bex]

Originally Posted by 3000gt97vr4

the compression was checked and each cylinder was120 or above

Just re-read and saw this. Sorry, forget most information here. Your car is not timed properly. If all cylinders are at about 120, your timing is off. Timing belt is timed to cylinder #4 firing. Ignition timing to cylinder #1. There are false marks on the cam pulley that should not be used. Only use the E marks on the cam pulley. Crank key at 12:00, cam key (E) at 6:00, cam mark (E) at 12:00. Then re-do ignition timing to cylinder #1. Cylinders fire at 1,3,4,2, and your rotor moves counterclockwise. You must do this first, and then check out ECU after.

[xxx]

x2
bad compression if done at WOT, if not Dont WOT, no comment.

[3000gt97vr4]

G100 to G110? LOOSE OR NOT BOLTED DOWN. Im sorry but i dont know what that means?????

Dont see any california specs under hood.

I cranked her up a minute ago and she blew black smut all over my truck that was right behind the vehicle. It was wierd, i thought it died but it was missing so bad when it was cold that it would hit every 2 senconds(after it was running)

ECU NUMBER = BL8623 33940-60A00 3382
VIN = JS3TD02V3P411****

Im Checking Compression now BEX. Thank yall for the ideas!!!!

[Bex]

Make sure you do the compression test with your gas pedal floored while you are cranking - this raises the compression, and we will all be on the 'same page' as to your results. Post your results for each cylinder.

By the way, the 'box' that you are reading from is the RWAL computer (a black box up by the firewall). That's just for the braking system. Right behind your left front speaker you will see a gray metal box. That's the ECU. It will start with 33920-XXXXX.
33940 is for the brakes.
And the G100 or G whatever are grounds for wiring. But don't worry about that yet. Get your compression done first. One step at a time!!

[xxx]

the pn posted is the RWAL controls rear wheel antilock brakes.
a wrong guess... wrong part.
is the car RHD OR LHD, no location stated so must guess.
LHD , the ecu resides behind left hand front speaker
RHD, the ecu resides behind the right hand speaker.

1 step at a time... we find country and body tag data........


do the compression this time WOT, if not, its just whistling in the dark.... type compression in my search box and bingo,, all steps 1 by 1, no big deal.
the engine is an air pump if there is no air, it CANT PUMP. WOT it and do the check.....

what transmission?, ECU must match TRANSMISION. (and motor type, etc,.)

Originally Posted by 3000gt97vr4

G100 to G110? LOOSE OR NOT BOLTED DOWN. Im sorry but i dont know what that means?????
thats because you didnt read the links, its the bad ground page.
read the link .
the grounds on the suzuki are all documented, they start with Gxxx, my links shows that.
should i post the link 1 more time./... no.....

Dont see any california specs under hood. sure... and my questions are wild guesses, because, no location stated..... the world is huge, and the market variance too.

that is because its a non N.Ameracan car.... you do know your location was blank.


I cranked her up a minute ago and she blew black smog all over my truck that was right behind the vehicle.
It was weird, i thought it died but it was missing so bad (its called flooding) when it was cold that it would hit every 2 seconds(after it was running) thats called gross misfiring.


ECU NUMBER = BL8623 33940-60A00 3382
VIN = JS3TD02V3P411****
P= 1993.type 2 motor.
JS = made in japan.

Im Checking Compression now BEX. Thank yall for the ideas!!!!

that is not and ECU. sorry !

your ecu is code 53, that is bad ecu, or wrong ecu. sorry. but is.
and 33940s is NOT and ECU.

bad compression, the car is full of bad things.
what to fix first is a fish and cut bait moment.
really just pick 1,
33920 is an ECU, (the prefix for all ecu's is that)
33940 IS NOT. bex will tell you, im too lazy to fire up my EPC lap top.... there are other object that look ECU and are not,, RWAL , and TCM, are 2.

sorry, the ECU is behind the left front speaker in LHD cars
is yours , left hand drive or right hand... in UK they are RHD.
and parts move, per DRIVE side.


ill take a wild guess, your tag looks like this.
all info you need is here.
totally not like USA or canada cars.
its has his.

right?
here is a very unique car , that is missing many common ECU parts.

one of vast variations of VITS world wide. not posting location,. makes it hard.
not posting tag data harder.
can i ask if the data on the tag is more complex that the below?
especially other long codes a the end?
give good input, and output can go far better,,,,, i promise.

where do you live.
and be aware, your car can be made up of ,many wrong parts. so we can discover all that if want and are serious in making it all play together , like day one.



or more verbose like this>?

\


one step at a time, and guessing about what's under hood is dumb.
here are the ropes: (in a real shop we look then leap. we identify the car, then find wrong parts on car or hacked parts.. then we correct that and then fix the other issues) in that order.
1: what country?
2: what vin, got it . Its not a cami car, its Awata car.
3: what tag data. (at the bottom are some very good facts) see last photo above for that idea.
4: compression WOT is what.? 170 it par. 150 on cold 8v motors. yours is 16v and is 170 psi good.
5: ever use an ignition strobe light... ?
6: what ECU, not the funky RWAL, but the real , deal;. Part number, the 56bxx or 58bxx or 59x or 70xxxx? the suffix# is the type ECU. 33920-XXXXX
7: do you have tools, are you willing to buy tools , (really of all this is the key to success, no tools , no joy , sorry)
8: key on, CEL lamp on, no fix that first (or if compression is bad, then sure, that be first but we dont know that)
9: crank over engine, does the tachometer swing up scale to 300 (1 = 1000 to 300 is point 3 (0.3) on the dial.... does it?
i have 50 more on my no start page.

the first thing to learn on you car, is what dizzy you have, the DISTRIBUTOR. there are many. but the ECU p/n tells me that as does the full body tag. data.
there is no other way to fix cars
1: answer the simple questions.
2: or just let me do it.... i do all that with no sounds.....just action.


if the compression is good.
tune it up. do the 60K mile now (100km)
if tuned up.?
change all fluids , they all we be bad, and no good comes from, that ever.
then diagnose this issues.
id be all over 53s, like white on rice. its bad to the bone that code,

get and FSM and read it.

this is a link if you click it , it goes to my no start page.
off that page is full tests under that state of failure.
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html

if you just want guessing by all means say so
there are only 2 ways. guessing and diagnosis.

[3000gt97vr4]

OK I checked the timing. see attached pics

I pulled the CORRECT ECU this time 33920-58b30 Based on link it is the correct one

I didnt check compression yet cause i was wondering if timing could be out 180 degrees and the sidekick still run? I would think not. But I have to put all that shat back on before I crank the engine to warm it up and do the compression check. Just want the experts to confirm my timing then its on compression

XXX Thanks for the link. couldnt pull it up on my android phone last night but works on my computer. My location is Mississippi USA and the car is LHD.


id be all over 53s, like white on rice. its bad to the bone that code, I LOVE IT!!! im concerned too!!

[Bex]

Yes, the timing can be out, and the car still running. And your timing IS out, as you're compression is around 120 on all your cylinders. If it was just one cylinder, then it is a different story. But if all of them are low like that, you need to sort out your timing before anything else. Look at the link under XXX's signature for his journal, and read how the timing should be done on these cars. You should be getting at least 170psi on all cylinders, on a warm engine, with the test done WOT. It is kind of senseless to diagnose any problem until you know for sure that your timing is spot on. Timing affects everything.
Your ECU is for a California car. (33920 56B30 for federal, 58B30 for California). Now look at the sticker under your hood, and look to see if there is ANY indication of California anywhere (normally will say something like car adheres to California emissions or federal emissions). If it does not say California in the emission statement, then you are running the wrong ECU on your car, which is why you are getting the code 53. The ECU is looking for a separate ground that only California ECU's have.