does 95 tracker have a Floater?

[xxx]

Originally Posted by mcproy

Ok this what I did : bought 7 function meter

Took off bumper cover, found connector, opened and tested on female plug and got reading of 066.
my guess, this is an autoranging DMM? if yes, make sure you read
the scale, on the meter, Omega, K, MEg. (the LCD shows this)
66 ohms good.
66 k ohms (open)
66 meg ohms, (open)

66 ohms, is 1/4 tank ,is your tank 1/4 full?


The level went from redzone empty to all the way down. The male plug didn't move the meter.
this means some current is flowing to the sender good , sign.


I did pull the 15 amp fuse under the dash(said FI) and the car turned off. I then took off rear left tail light undid ground used sandpaper to clean ground and then reattach turned tracker back on an it turned on but still no gauge working.

Any instruction what to do next??

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/Fuel-...l-level-1w.jpg

your sender reads 66 ohms 1/4 tank...is YOUR tank full?
if above is full tank,
then the sender is reading wrong.
but can be bad connections , dont assume, do the tests.
follow the yellow/red wire (sender ) to the tank,
i jackup up rear bumper with stands, gaining better access.
flow that wire to the sender.
you can see,it, look.
find inline connectors. are they bad?

when you get to the sender
see 2 wires, there.
black (ground,
yellow/red sender output

measure both wires. as close to the sender as possible.
Full is 3 OHMS.

IF tank full?, and ohms 3, good, 3 full , 120 empty)
if not and is way off ,the sender is bad.
dont forget the sender black wire MUST be connected to a perfectly
clean body connections,or the sender will read EMPTY all the time.

[mcproy]

ok i bought the meter: 7 Function Digital Multimeter on the meter i set the black wire to bottom plug and red wire to the middle plug i turned on and switched to the marking directly above the yellow "ON" setting( the weird arrow and plus sign.) that when i got 066 on the female but nothing on male

then when i test for resistance bottom green setion set to 200, i get 76.4 on the female, but nothing on male.

i also noticed that when i plug them back my gas gauge goes from very bottom to edge of white almost touching red. where it was all along. does this mean the fuel level sending unit is stuck on almost empty?

[Bex]

The gauge moving as it does when you plug the connector back in would mean that the gauge is getting voltage. Of course, a stupid question - how much gas is in the fuel tank? If you put another 5 gallons in, can we assume that the gauge does not go any higher than where it is now? Or, better yet, does your meter change from the supposed 66 ohms that you are getting now, to a lower number?? (Full is 3 ohms, empty is 120 ohms, 1/2 tank about 32 ohms, so, as xxx says, your current 66 ohms would indicate 1/4 tank).

[xxx]

and use a home made dip stick
to fill the filled amount , and 1/8 " to 1/4" metal dowel rod.
or let the autoshutoff at the station island pump trip at full, tell you.

there is a check valve on some, that stop this from happening (did stick)
on some, kicks, just at the entry of the tank.
so go easy.

[mcproy]

ok when i had put in gas a few weeks ago i put 5 gallons in and had sipllage under neat the tracker, thought it was full so didnt add more, sunday i tried to add more, this time i took off wheel well cover to check as i poured in gas, added 3 gallons.

turns out i had a leak on the fuel filler neck hose. i checked auto zone, did not carry, i tried napa parts, same. i did search on several web sites and could not find one from my 95 tracker. one website listed a universal fuel filler hose. so on the hunt for a universal one, but need to know the diameter, before i remove the old one on the tracker( per XXX web page on working on the pressurised fuel system) also i saw a page that listed Fuel filler hoses for BOATS, and they were less than 2dollars per foot. i need to know if these would be compatible or do i need to stick to one from automobiles. and also need to know the diameter.

yes, bex even with gas in it still only goes to just above the red. yes it moved up(i cleaned the hose as much as i could and put some Gorilla Tape on and securred it with zip ties) temp fix now i was able to fill up till i heard fuel rising up the hose last night. so should have a full tank, drove 35 miles to work then will drive 35 back home. i will try to remove bumper today and get another reading on the meter( wife got me busy with other stuff too). sorry about reads still learnig to use the meter, it came from Harbor freight tools, paid a Wooping $2.00 for it on their weekend sidewalk sale.

[Bex]

Did you check for the filler hose, asking for 1995 Suzuki Sidekick? You may have better luck that way, as the Tracker is no longer well supported. And I'm not sure I understand...you put in 5 gallons a few 'weeks' ago, and now yesterday put in 3 gallons? Have you tried to carefully insert a metal dowel in the fuel tank, as per xxx suggestion, to see how much fuel is really there? Have you checked the black ground wire behind the left tail light, to make sure there is a good connection there? Frankly, if the gauge is registering empty when you disconnect the connector, and then going up only a small amount when you reconnect it (as long as you are sure that you have more than that amount of gas in it), it does sound like the sender is stuck in some way and not rising with the amount of gas in the tank.

[mcproy]

ok guys i finally fixed hose problem, will put in 2 gallons in and go home tonite, i'll remove therear bumper skin, and take measurement on meter, then i'll go fill up and retest. if the sender arm is stuck should the meter readings be the same? correct? if the reads show full(3 oms) then the prolbem sould lie in the dash gage? am i right? ( i know its a dumb question, but i know how to change parts only, im lousey at diagnostics ) or should i be testing at sender exit wire?

thanks for your paients.

btw if it is the arm physically stuck am i able to remove the sender without droping the tank?

[xxx]

Originally Posted by mcproy

ok guys i finally fixed hose problem, will put in 2 gallons in and go home to-nite, i'll remove the rear bumper skin, and take measurement on meter, then i'll go fill up and retest. if the sender arm is stuck should the meter readings be the same? correct? if the reads show full(3 oms) then the problem should lie in the dash gage? am i right? ( i know its a dumb question, but i know how to change parts only, im lousy at diagnostics ) or should i be testing at sender exit wire?

thanks for your patients.

btw if it is the arm physically stuck?, am i able to remove the sender without drooping the tank? not really.

but one guy here just tilted the tank, front to rear. to gain access.
if you look under car, you will understand this.

those are very hard questions, the gauge is not linear,
and if fact, shows full before its even full,
tanks and the senders are vary crude (for cost reasons and purpose)
the sender shows empty before empty ( it lies to you , to make you safe,)
it and lies at full. ( the rheostat tops out early)
and lies, at 1/2 full. (its no instrument at all)
all that counts , really?, is full and empty.
in your case....
it must read near 3 ohms full, why a sender is bad, is of no concern, because its bad
and must be replaced,.
if the sender reads correct, it's good ( say even 5 ohms is good, )
full. (the sender is just a rheostat)
that means its 1 of 2 things. if sender reads good.
the wires are bad.
or the guage.
that is why i ask you to do the simple gauge test.
if you and did that and that passed (say full scale with lamp tests)
then found the full tank at 3 to 5 ohms. then the wires from the guage
to the tank are bad.

this is just a simple 3 component circuit.
and is operated by current.
best practices is to do the 2 easy tests first.
the sender
then the guage.
if both pass, the wires between them are bad, corroded or the connectors to the same are bad.
keep in mind connectors at any point can fail, for many reasons.
collision damage. (past) water damage, living in the salt belt.
broken windows in the car ignored by po and water got to one of the connectors, in side the left side harness.
what fails can be totally random..
that is why we do the tests , to find out which of the 3 parts are failing.


the sender is just a coil of resistance wire.
that has a wiper tap arm that picks off a different portion
of wire , based on fuel level.
its very crude and 1800s technology, Jules Vern like,.
when the tank if near full the coil of wire is near shorted, 3ohms
when near empty the arm bottoms out and hits 120 ohms or so..
here is a friend rewinding and antique sender coil.... some things are not for sale.
the slider (pick off wiper) is not shown here.

[Bex]

2 gallons of gas might not be enough to make much difference. If you are testing the float arm, I would fill the car up, or at least put an appreciable amount of gas in it, and do your ohm test. So far, it appears you are testing with small amounts of gas - when your tank is truly low, putting a couple of gallons of gas in it might not move the needle on the gauge appreciably at all.

[xxx]

im not sure at all what he is doing.

id did ask for a full tank and 3 ohms.
his filler hose was bad, its fixed, waiting for full tank, and the test.
it can only be 3 things.
if the sender passes and the gauge test passes that leaves, Mr. wires.

my guess,. is PO never ever filled the tank due to , filler leaks.
now with good hose, he gets to make it all work right again.