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Old 01-07-2013, 06:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear drum brakes stuck on after install

Had friends over yesterday to tackle several projects on the Geo. One of them tackled the rear brakes. Everything seemed to go smoothly, although the larest spring was pretty difficult to stretch and secure. The drums went on, but had to be tapped on with a rubber mallet. Normal with other drums brakes I have done in the past.

Here is the issue... We went to roll the truck back into the garage and it seemed like the emergency brake was stick on, but it wasnt. I hot the brakes a few times to try to unseize them. Seems the rear brakes ate now engaged.

This was last night, just before dark. We were not able take everythibg apart. I am thinking this is simply the wheel cylinders were not conpressed enough when doing the brake job. If that is the case, can i simply release the bleed nut on the back of the wheel cylinder to release pressure, or do i need to remove the drums and components again to compress the wheel cylinder?

Thx!
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith1976 View Post
Had friends over yesterday to tackle several projects on the Geo. One of them tackled the rear brakes. Everything seemed to go smoothly, although the larest spring was pretty difficult to stretch and secure. The drums went on, but had to be tapped on with a rubber mallet. Normal with other drums brakes I have done in the past.

Here is the issue... We went to roll the truck back into the garage and it seemed like the emergency brake was stick on, but it wasnt. I hot the brakes a few times to try to unseize them. Seems the rear brakes ate now engaged.

This was last night, just before dark. We were not able take everythibg apart. I am thinking this is simply the wheel cylinders were not conpressed enough when doing the brake job. If that is the case, can i simply release the bleed nut on the back of the wheel cylinder to release pressure, or do i need to remove the drums and components again to compress the wheel cylinder?

Thx!
Did you reset the self adjustment bar?



#26-27


The ratchet mechanism works kind of like police handcuffs with teeth that engage each other to go one way but not the other in order to lock. You have to pull the piece out then rotate it to the end so it can adjust the first time you step on the brake. You should never have to hammer on a drum...
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
The drums went on, but had to be tapped on with a rubber mallet. Normal with other drums brakes I have done in the past.
NEVER a good idea.

You have them pre-adjusted too tight! The drums should slide on with only a very minimum of shoe contact.

They'll self-adjust out from there.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks!! Last set of drums i had was a 1968 VW Bug.
We just jammed the drums back on. Will tear everything back apart. I am sure that is the problem. I am a newbie!!
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's cool!

And old V-Dubs are MUCH more forgiving.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks!! Last set of drums i had was a 1968 VW Bug.
We just jammed the drums back on. Will tear everything back apart. I am sure that is the problem. I am a newbie!!
Hopefully it is something simple like the adjuster. Let us know what you find
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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YES!! It was the adjuster. Thanks everyone!

Next step is the front brakes. Should be easy. The previous owner had lock nuts on all the wheels. Could not find the KEY! He lost it in Mexico. UGH! Realized this yesterday when working on it.

Took to Discount Tire today and they got the locks off. Yay! Disk brake job tomorrow afternoon/evening and bleed the brakes.

One step closer to getting back on the trail...
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by csmith1976 View Post
YES!! It was the adjuster. Thanks everyone!

Next step is the front brakes. Should be easy. The previous owner had lock nuts on all the wheels. Could not find the KEY! He lost it in Mexico. UGH! Realized this yesterday when working on it.

Took to Discount Tire today and they got the locks off. Yay! Disk brake job tomorrow afternoon/evening and bleed the brakes.

One step closer to getting back on the trail...
Nice work
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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RTM?
the sticky above shows books
and the book had the full set of instructions, for rear and fronts
just ignore the ABS sections.

1996 (same basics)
Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual

the 68 bug has a hard bottom pivot adjuster
on the kicks is quite different.
brakes vary alot by make and year. the FSM is the cure.

put on Raybestos preloaded disc, for best life. ( yours and cars)
(usually the pistons are rusted bad,,, hopelessly)


http://www.fixkick.com/brakes/brakes.html

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Old 01-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks! I will let you know how everything goes after I get the fronts done this evening.

I took the tracker out for a drive yesterday and the brakes work, but the pedal presses nearly all the way to the floor before engaging the brakes. I checked out XXX fixkick website brake page and looks like another possible big issue. I am hoping I can simply install the new disc brake pads, bleed the brakes and go...

If I have any issues, I will return and report.

(we don't really have much rust here in AZ, which is nice)
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