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Old 01-26-2013, 11:28 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I am going to clean the throttle body up as much as I can with it on the car.
Removed the PCV valve and when testing it I could blow on it both ways. Which obviously means it is no good. Replacing PCV valve.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:14 PM   #52 (permalink)
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ooh you missed a tune up part. its on the list. PCV, they fail often.
the older the car, the more often do to more blow by.

ok the 8v TB loves to crack and suck in its center body gasket.
i think that makes a leak in the IAC internal porting and with obvious effects.
when you unplug the ISC the rpm most drop to like 400 rpm (huge drop from where ever)
or you have a stuck open iSC or massive a air leak.
finding it is not hard.
1 step at a time.
or the smoke machine.
here is the steps.
see g16a 93
I got a bad idle , cold or hot engine!
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:18 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Spent about an hour cleaning the throttle body. It was so dirty. I was able to get it pretty clean without taking it off. I also sprayed a bit of TB cleaner in some of the hoses, ect.

Started it up (took a bit, due to the TB cleaner in it), but started up. Idle was steady, around 900rpm. Took out on Saturday to play in some mud it did great. POSTING photos on my build thread! Check them out.

Thank you to everyone helping me out!! :-)
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:46 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Well done! Recommend a bottle of Techron now and again, to help keep things clean inside.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:28 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx View Post
ooh you missed a tune up part. its on the list. PCV, they fail often.
the older the car, the more often do to more blow by.

ok the 8v TB loves to crack and suck in its center body gasket.
i think that makes a leak in the IAC internal porting and with obvious effects.
when you unplug the ISC the rpm most drop to like 400 rpm (huge drop from where ever)
or you have a stuck open iSC or massive a air leak.
finding it is not hard.
1 step at a time.
or the smoke machine.
here is the steps.
see g16a 93
I got a bad idle , cold or hot engine!
Seems to be fine now! Thanks for your help.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:05 PM   #56 (permalink)
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cant beat good.
not even with a stick.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:02 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Default High Idle

Been listening to discussion. Reading and rereading. Had a high idle problem. Tracked it to lower vsv vacuum hose. Crack in vacuum line. Running much better now. I have a 1991 Suzuki Samurai JL. Fuel injected. Just two questions. Does the DP need to be replaced if the rubber boot is gone and where is the vacuum coming from on the lower VSV hose. The place where it is plugged into only has a small pin hole in it. Thanks to XXX. Great help.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:21 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Default What parts need to be replaced

Can ya'll give me a beginning list of parts to replace in my 1991 Suzuki Samurai. It is fuel injected. I want replace parts a little at a time in order of probable break down and maintenance. Thanks for any help.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:42 AM   #59 (permalink)
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do you have a country?
sammi posts in a kick forum, really> ok. ill bite,,,, sorry OP he's
a hijacker wrong fourm and not is post. but is close to yours. TBIs same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by msdelta View Post
Been listening to discussion. Reading and rereading. Had a high idle problem. Tracked it to lower vsv vacuum hose. Crack in vacuum line. Running much better now. I have a 1991 Suzuki Samurai JL. Fuel injected. Just two questions. Does the DP need to be replaced if the rubber boot is gone and where is the vacuum coming from on the lower VSV hose. The place where it is plugged into only has a small pin hole in it. Thanks to XXX. Great help.????????????????
why replace good parts.?
do the tuneup in the book (60k miles is the majors)
you sammi failed the pinch hose test. sure. easy that relic hoses. and all.
no hose is designed for over 10years, in service.
how ever EPDM hoses might, upgrade to them or if flush with cash silicon.
DP that is a dust boot, its ok , let it run .

i do not kwow where PLACE is.
only photos work,

if in he USA , are you? open hood look up.
see white sticker vacuum map, that is the vacuum routes

vsv 101
the vsv has 2 hoses.
and is polarized. that is right, if the valve has that ventcap and filter
it is polarized.
so the hoses cant just be fitted by guessing

when the ECU drops out the DP.
the valve closes, the DP side switches to , VENT.
if not the DP hangs do to trapped vacuum in the DP side.

the DP tests are simple. ih hand.
pull 8inchs hg vacuum must hold on scale for 30seconds or the diaphragm
is cracked. (a double failure bad DP and vacuum leak )
the make sure the rod moves from min to max, no vac then 9 inches/
that be a good DP.
on car is more test.
pre the fsm. start car, in less than 30seconds the DP retrackes (sucks in)
and stays there full time runining.

the vsv 101, its on my page , search VSV.
not broken or holed VSV parts, or cracks , missing nipples
it must close. 0v
it must open with 12v. (some work backwards from this)
it must not leak closed.
its just a 12v solenoid air valve.
open coil. or shorted coil.


here is on page
VSV testing
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