Poor mileage and more exhaust...

Kulezi · 01-01-2013, 12:34 AM

Hi all. Perhaps this is a ridiculous question but I want to ask it anyway. Newbie to the forum, looking for a sidekick. Found a 95' - 5 speed - JX - 4WD for sale, the good: $750. the bad: " it seems to be using more gas and a lot of exhaust coming out". Waiting to find out how many miles, etc... Should I stay away, or could this be an easy fix? Thanks to any who reply.

Bex · 01-01-2013, 05:54 AM

Difficult to answer. Much of this can possibly be attributed to poor timing, bad maintenance, etc. Or worse. What exactly is bad mileage?? What does the exhaust smell like? Is the check engine light on with the key on and off once the car is running? Does the car have good power, or is it bogging and hesitating? What is cold and warm idle? What is the condition/color of the oil on the dipstick? Some fixes are easy enough - maintenance, timing, fluids, tune up, etc. Others are more problematic, like a sheared crank key, etc. Are you able to run a compression test on the car??

xxx · 01-01-2013, 02:29 PM

only Carnac the Magnificent can do that, ESP. thing.
want a guess?
or a list off 100 things.
1: ECT wires fell off
100: cracked ;block.
Pay a real life mech to check it over for you, or buddy that fixes his own cars.
or?

I can list them but wont. its pointless.

first tune it up and do the 60k miles column in the Opr. guide
then ask for help finding the problem if the tune up dont cure it.

http://www.fixkick.com/MPG.html

razor02097 · 01-02-2013, 11:36 AM

Buying someone elses problem is always a gamble unless you can figure out what you are getting yourself in to. Trackicks are really easy to work on so if it is something relatively minor there shouldn't be any reason a DIY mechanic couldn't repair it.

Things you should check are

if the check engine light illuminates when key is on (to make sure the lamp is working) then it should go out. If it remains on that means there are likely trouble codes (I say likely because it could also be a "nag" switch). Take it for a test drive because it is easy to clear codes on these and you want to see if you get a check engine light.
Pull out the dipstick to check the engine oil color, scent and to see if there is signs of water or coolant.
Check the overflow tank for signs of oil
Start the engine and listen for signs of knocking, intermittent chirping, air sucking sounds, tapping and any other bad noises.

Check my signature for common rust spots on these vehicles. If it only seems bad in 1 or 2 spots don't let it fool you. Especially if it is undercoated!

If you really want to buy but aren't sure of the condition of the engine like mentioned in the above posts it would be best to get an experienced person to evaluate it. It could be as simple as a bad sensor or as bad as a bad engine... you never know until you look at it.

Kulezi · 01-02-2013, 06:59 PM

Thanks all,

Think I'm going to have a pre-purchase inspection done, it's winter, 15 inches of snow, no garage, and I'm not familiar with Sidekicks.

I really appreciate the suggestions and questions (as it gave me some questions to ask the seller), and the links. I'm looking forward to contributing to the community soon.

xxx · 01-03-2013, 06:59 AM

no collision damage turn car upside down look for body damage that
once hit the frame, allow zero frame damage
no rust..... why buy rust.."?????

compression good
shifts good.
not crazy noises from drive line.

its a buy.
all else is easy to fix.
and EXPECTED, after 20 years..... for sure...

consider that,
the new car (lol) needs
all new fluids
the 60k done for the first time on over 50% of cars (neglect)
a full brake job
add all that up and see if the bodes well with cost of newer car.
20 year old cars, are never in good shape, as a rule.
believe eyes, and receipts never rumors.