Nice looking truck, and welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with it. A couple of thoughts:
Check engine light should be on with key on, and off when car is running.
When starting from cold start, idle should be about 2000 rpm or so, drop down to 1500 rpm within 5-10 seconds, then slowly reduce as car warms up, to 800 rpm steady idle.
You should have great heat in the cab (showing that car has warmed up properly), no bogging, hesitation, etc. You should get between 25-29mpg. And you should have a lot of fun with this, these are great little trucks. Plenty of info on the forum about timing, tuning, problems, etc. Enjoy!
Bex - Thanks for the starter information. My check engine light is not coming on at all. Not with key on (in ignition position), I am going to check into it. I will also plug my computer in to see if there are any codes popping up! Idle is not good. Starts up fine and then once warmed a little goes from 1500 to 2000 rpm and goes up and down from there. I assume its a vacuum issue. I posted a new thread on it at Vacuum system / idle going from 1500-2000 rpms - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site
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Phoenix, Arizona USA
1993 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible, 1.6L, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
Yes, I saw the new thread. Check to make sure that the CEL bulb is good. The CEL must go on with the key on (and if it's not working, there will be no way for you to get codes from the ECU). If you find that the CEL is not working at all (and bulb checks out), it is possible that the caps in the ECU are on their way out (if they have never been replaced). A $5 fix if you know how to solder.....
Day 1: Geo Project: putting together list of all the parts and supplies that I need for the first 2-3 projects. Hope Auto Zone has everything. Will be changing fluids, doing a tune-up (need to figure out how to use a timing gun again, youtube is good for that), replacing belts and hoses and hopefully getting to the brakes. Most of the actual work will happen tomorrow!! :-) I will return and report soon!
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Phoenix, Arizona USA
1993 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible, 1.6L, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
Update!
Had a couple friends from our local off-road club come over on Sunday to help with the project Geo that we named it "El Hefe"! We hope he is someday!
Items done with a few notes:
1 - Oil change + new filter
<<easy breezy, although oil was black... might have to change again in 1000 miles>>
2 - Tune up (plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor and timing belt)
<<Install went well, had an idle issue before the tune-up and hoped it would fix it, but it didn't, Ohhhhh well...>> http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...-new-post.html
3 - Replaced fuel tank fill pipe
<<fit a flexible coolant line for the fuel line, hope it works well>>
4 - Replaced fuel filter
<<Remember to loosen the correct way, lefty loosey!"
5 - Replaced rear brake pads.
<< Had issue, previous owner lost the wheel lock key in Mexico, so could not do the job. Bought a gator socket, but didn't work, so we removed the rear drums and did the rear brakes and replaced the pads. Drums looked OK. Forgot to reset the self-adjuster... OOPS!, had to fix that today since the brakes seems locked>>
6 - Removed lock nuts - Took to Discount Tire and they forced the lock nuts off the wheels. Replaced with regular lug nuts (of course!)
<<Figured out that the brakes are soft and the E brake does not work now... hmmm = NEW PROJECT!!>>
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Phoenix, Arizona USA
1993 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible, 1.6L, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
Picked up my rig today! Was very excited. So much has been done.... BUT... The "zuk" mechanic told me that when he test drove it that the motor felt seriously underpowered. He believes its an issue with the throttle body (see previous issue: idle problem), but would not touch it since he cannot stand the 8v TBI system. He suggests one of two options.
1. 16v engine swap (lots more power? cost?)
2. Weber carb install (increase in power, reliability? $300-400)
I bought the rig for $1800, already have $2000 extra into it in 1 month. Has yet to be taken offroad.
Going to go run it tomorrow. Should know more soon. Not looking to break the bank, but not ready to give up yet!!
Other options? (Here is one of mine)
1. Turbo for current engine with Weber carb? (My friend owns a turbo shop called FAT) i am thinking that the turbo can help provide power at/getting too highway speeds. Motor is not smoking, but once it goes, remove replace and continue to use same turbo kit??
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Phoenix, Arizona USA
1993 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible, 1.6L, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
These cars are not fast, nor do they feel "powerful". They pretty much have just enough power to get themselves around comfortably, and honestly that's really all they need. If the car is timed and tuned properly and in good enough health, it should be running just fine. I honestly think these trucks are just fine the way they are, and converting/swapping/adding a bunch of stuff just defeats the purpose of the vehicle. Besides, I doubt you'd get any noticeable power gains from switching to a carb. 16v swap, maybe, but I really feel it wouldn't be worth the cost.
CS, check out your other post regarding your vacuum issue. Unless you are trying to compare these little 8v's with a V8 350 cubic inch engine, these little 8v's are peppy enough. I can leave rubber with my car, and, for what it is (80hp) it runs well enough so that I don't feel like I'm driving a 1960's Volkswagen van in traffic or highway. I think that you need to confirm your timing first, before anything else. And if the timing is off (which I think that it probably is), then I don't give your 'Zuk mechanic' much credence for any of his 'suggestions' (certainly a swap to carb would not increase 'power' or 'reliability')....
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