I have a 96 X90 and it snowed here in Vancouver the other day .I go out ,put it in 4wd and let it warm up.Its starts to sputter and I could barely get up to speed.So now even though it's back in 2wd .Not that that means a bunch but it still runs crappy.Was fine up until then.Think it's a EGR situation that's talked about so much on here.It din ping alot in the summer if that helps.cylinder temps maybe to high.Any help would be sweet.
You should first confirm that the car is timed and tuned correctly - a compression test will confirm the valve timing (post your values - t-belts can jump a tooth, etc.). Plugs should be gapped to .028", etc.
Also check the tips of your spark plugs to see if they are wet, or check the color of them to check combustion. Presumably your check engine light is on with key on, and off when the car starts.
The EGR valve does not work at idle or wide open throttle. However, if you have any bogging/hesitation when running, it is a good idea to clean it. You can remove the valve from the car, clean it with carb cleaner so that the orifices are clear and the diaphragm snaps back strongly on its spindle. Clean the intake and exhaust ports that are visible with the valve off the car, as well. Tons of info on the forum about EGR cleaning.
I have a 96 X90 and it snowed here in Vancouver the other day .I go out ,put it in 4wd and let it warm up.Its starts to sputter and I could barely get up to speed.
your saying you do not have full power wide open throttle ? HOT MOTOR?
and only HOTlow speed power
and does rpm ever drop below 800 HOT? or cold?
we need all symptoms,not just 1 bad.
this tells me what is working correctly and what is not.
see my sig, see that text file, this file shows the
list of symptoms that allow any tech, to give good online help.
i cant drive your car,so thus the brown paper bag.
So now even though it's back in 2wd .Not that that means a bunch but it still runs crappy.Was fine up until then.Think it's a EGR situation that's talked about so much on here. a 50k mile std service point it is..
clean it , so i closes. then defeat it for testing.
then if it runs bad, its now not the EGR. simple,huh?
all that is on my EGR page, and vastly more.
It did not?ping alot? in the summer? if that helps.?cylinder temps maybe to0 high.Any help would be sweet.
cylinder temps will be too high with any dead EGR.
I hope it hasn't jumped a tooth.The belt is maybe 30,000 k ago.The old owner had it done before I bought it.I will take the EGR off and clean it all up .I have a vacuum pump so I will make sure it moves and holds vacuum.
I hope it hasn't jumped a tooth.The belt is maybe 30,000 k ago.The old owner had it done before I bought it.I will take the EGR off and clean it all up .I have a vacuum pump so I will make sure it moves and holds vacuum.
One thing I did notice is on cold start it's fine until it warms up.Then it will misfire and kinda sputter and almost stall.Totally un drive able though.No power at all.
Do the compression test. You can never guarantee what/when a previous owner did something. The compression test will at least confirm to you if the timing is correct. In order to really diagnose what's wrong with the car, you need the foundation of good timing.....
my question is
when hot only
do you have full power wot.....?
when he replaced the belt was it Gate, or some fleabay no name POS belt.for $10?
? use top brands, get them at NAPA , is best easy way.
the x90 is a 16v motor
and also has the nice OBD2 ecu that can be scanned with any full scanner made.
so ,,,,
key on CEL glows. IT must. if not fix that or get the scan tool. (they are rented cheap)
not cheap, code reader , a real scanner.
pull the DTCS stored.
You start it up , does the CEL go out?/
yes. good
no, pull the scan codes.... the Dtc's.
in general:
a total lack of power hot. ( i must assume the belt is ok, if power is ok cold)
bad spark? did you check spark timing with at timing light?
bad fueling. ? (a very long list) starving or flooding.
themostat bad, and never reaches 180F and hold solid. will cause vast richness
and flooding,misfire,and red hot CAT. (at least)
spark tips white or black and wet with fuel, is the best free test on fueling.
the egr
forget vacuum
get the egr closed and keep it there, until this major failure is solved.
and plug the vacuum line to it with a golf tee. EGR is not OFF LINE,
it must be eliminated first its a huge failure item.
if stuck open , all else is a waste .
we clean it, the make sure it snaps shut what a loud clunk. then defeat it.
1 of 2 ways
this is just a test, so you can spend all time on fixing the real failure
and btw, if the bad hot running is solved then bingo EGR.
just one simple act. clean and defeat it.
EGR also clog because the fueling is crappy. rich, and rich makes carbon and vast
carbon flowing packs up EGR.to its a victim in many cases.
i have 3 rules. for any 96 (scanner easy to get(
1: coolant hits 180f and HOLDS
2: egr cleaned working and defeated
3:;scan tool shows all sensors working, right and holds closed loop, at idle
and cruise.
this assumes the motor is good. compression at spec,
ive seen 30,000 miles tbelts that are really 100,000 +
that dog dont hunt. i do the tests and let reality rule.
rumors to me are useless.... PO promises zero
Ok so now I have had a chance to check it out a bit.Code p0400 and it also has a exhaust leak before the converter I see.I took the EGR off and broke both bolts.Any ideas to get those bastards out?Any way it's not blocked and neither is the tube.I haven't checked the EGR with a vacuum tester as I can't find mine.So would the exhaust leak cause the poor idle and no power.I can't even drive it as I cant go road speed.
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96 X90 Runs Rough
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