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Old 01-10-2013, 12:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
xxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X90steve View Post
Ok so now I have had a chance to check it out a bit.Code p0400 and it also has a exhaust leak before the converter
well thats like, 2 feet of pipe. and the 16v has the 02 right at the collector (that donut ring must NEVER leak, also)
so the 02 on your car is now useless. (flooded with 20% oxygen full time)
the exh has pulses that plus and minus (vacuum) at the misus it SUCK AIR.




I see.I took the EGR off and broke both bolts.over 100 inch;lbs that can
happen, spec on 6mm bolts is tiny. not and easy fix at all.



Any ideas to get those bastards out?
sure off car easy , take intake to machine shop and EDM them out.
(or like any bolt,drill and retap)
sure on car, H3LL , on earth (rubberman,might differ)

Any way it's not blocked and neither is the tube.I haven't checked the EGR with a vacuum tester as I can't find mine.So would the exhaust leak cause the poor idle and no power.I can't even drive it as I cant go road speed.

the EGR need not work, to get full MPG on this year,car.
you make it closed,100% then defeat it.
fix all other problems,then in spring fix it.


real issues (lost power from engine)
get eGR closed, now drive , still lost power.
1: engine compression good.? spec.?
2: tuned up, static time good,if off the timing belt slippped, do not fiddle the dizzy now, check the belt first.
3:;bad fueling.
#3 is a huge number of tests.

the first tests are.
CEL on,key on, yes,
cel out running, P0400 only, Ignoreit.
is this a near useless coder reader or a real scantool.
the real tool is like $50 and pays for itself , this car and future cars
its like a hammer, every Carpenter has one...

so you jack in
and ECT reads, 140F.; bad.
or closed loop never ever happens. (02 stuck rich?)
here is a set of sequential tests done on YOUR motor 96+ 16v

id never work blind on any OBD2,life is too short, and parts are like $200 a pop. (not to mention, labor and down time)

A full OBD2 scan
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So get the exhaust leak fixed first.Well after I deal with the EGR bolts I didn't need to remove.I sprayed with penetrating fluid so I will keep doing that for a day or two.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nope the EGR bolts won't come out.Holy crap I wish I could fly to Japan and slap the fool who designed that set up.Guess my only choice is to remove the intake manifold.So much work for a problem that isn't the EGR.What a waste of time.And I still need to figure out why it runs so crapy.I will still need to tow it to a exhaust shop to fix the leak.Then maybe it will run good after that.I unfortunately need to sell it now as I am broke with mounting bills.Anyone want a X90?
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X90steve View Post
Anyone want a X90?
What's your location?
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1997 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd

1989 Ford E-250, van, 5.0 (302), 4 spd auto
1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I am in Port Moody BC
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:11 AM   #16 (permalink)
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me too,
choke the retired guy that casted the 16v intake mold. with the #1 top fail item
to where only micky mouse can touch. inane to the extreme.
best practice , on gets hands on car 1st time, is get it out , and put back with anti-seize
on the treads, after using the 6mm thread chaser.

not only that ,some early x90 has the inane older, 4 port egr intake,
double trouble, no, 5 times trouble.

to get them out , get it hot, then as it cools hit it with PEN OIL: (pick brand)
let the cooling cause a internal vacuum in the threads , praying that it sucks in
the after cool, try jogging the 2 bolts, ccw, then cw, the ccw, just a tiny bet
not exceeding 100 inch /lbs. ever.
jog the spray, if you take your time they can work free.
the EGR will fail, no EGR lasts 300k miles, ever.
all must be removed in the end play.
be ready.

The EGR only needs to be closed. then defeat it. (golf tee the line, stopping that suck sound. like your wallet, LOL)
the see if you have good idle,
and full power.
do that, first
do not waste hard hours of work and down time over this part!! (unless you must)
if you can get it closed, (realty wins here as does fate and end of life on any part)
Entropy rules the earth.!
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have used a propane torch and it hasn't worked yet.But I will keep trying.I soooo don't want to pull the intake manifold.I can still get a vise grip on it.One is very short though.?but if you feel that it may work I will keep trying it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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yes, everyones seen this pain on many vehicle.
try 02 sensors on a v6, in-human, access. same reason.
its a SUZUKI thing..... Hiroshima, pay back no less.

the bottom brace needs to be removed to get the intake off
i have a page here for the steps.
(part of this)
HEAD-pull
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Mapp gas would probably work better, or acetylene. Just don't melt the aluminum.
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1997 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd

1989 Ford E-250, van, 5.0 (302), 4 spd auto
1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto
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