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Old 12-07-2012, 05:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default help loss of power !!!!

right here goes i will try and exsplain this as best ass pos ....

i have a suzuki vitara 1.6 8v auto jacked up 5" ect i decided to do the manual conversion it went fine but in the prosess the wax stat plug got broken and it ran shit like well slow i brought a second hand one and drove 110% better for about a week max then went sluggish and slow again ive done a service changed fuel filter leads cap and rotor arm i cleaned out egr valve used fuel additive in the fuel i done water pump alswell as thermostat ive got a ticking noise sounds like injector but uppon reading seems to be normal ive got no cel light on but runs like its on limp mode or somthing im and when started from cold it dont rev as high as it used to getting stressed out with it n considdering burning it out lol so any help would be apreciated
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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thought someone on here might have know clearly not :/
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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As you spend time on here you will learn that answers are sometimes going to take more than a few hours. This is because while there are many experts on here...they are scattered all over the world in many different time zones. Please be patient as this is a hobby and many of us have family and careers to tend to.

Could you elaborate on what was broken and what you replaced?
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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yep i deserved that lol thats what i mean i dont know what is broke i was hoping from my exsplenation someone might now
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you called it a wax stat I'm assuming you have a carburetor? I'm assuming the vehicle runs bad at idle?

One test you can do to make sure your expansion element is working is remove it then put it in really hot water. The metal rod should extend. If not then you have a bunk unit.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah its single point, its like the choke is constantly on i dont think it gets to correct temp , and i get really crap mpg
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the car dont have a YEAR? or Country? you do know that there are 5 engine types in EU, right>? including very odd distributors..... unlike in USA or canada.
A photo of the engine helps as does a photo of the vin tag on the fire wall just to left of battery .? this shows, all motor options... TYPE MOTOR? to me, i can decode it.
tell us what you want us to do, guess? (wildly) recommend tests? or? what? Got money to buy tools?. your here because you skipped past your mech. so say what
you need...?. I can advise on tests. and order of tests. and methods...
is this a TBI injected car or a CARB? 8v came with both types. i will guess, at TBI, see photo below, does that look like yours, IDENTIFICATION is #1 to me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ellsa1 View Post
right here goes i will try and explain this as best as pos ....

i have a suzuki vitara 1.6 8v auto jacked up 5" ect i decided to do the manual conversion it went fine, but in the process, the wax stat plug (coolant thermostat?) got broken and it ran crap,(sure would!) like well slow, i brought a second hand one? (a stat or what?) and drove 100% better for about a week max, then went sluggish and slow again ive done a service, changed fuel filter, leads, cap and rotor arm, i cleaned out egr valve, used fuel additive in the fue,l i done water pump as well as thermostat, ive got a ticking noise sounds like injector, but upon reading ,seems to be normal ive got no CELl light on (key on only no cel?) but runs like it's on limp mode or something im and when started from cold it don't rev as high, as it used to.
Im getting stressed out with it n considering burning it out, lol so any help would be appreciated
Sounds like rich misfire.
looking at the spark tips is free, white, tan, brown, black and wet with fuel?
anyone can do the spark readings. with just 1 tool.
are all those parts changed above new, or used.
ever do a compression test to see how healthy the motor really is??????
did you find this in a barn or was this a daily driver for 1 year, last year.
or what?
all engine diagnosis goes like this. (the order saves cash and labor)
1: engine good?
2: spark good, white /blue spark x4? and timed near 5d BTDC?
got a timing light or using dousing rods? (no judge, just asking....)
3: bad fueling

bad fueling comes in 2 flavors.
too rich
and too lean.

the spark plugs will help with that. (reading the tips, )

i have a misfire page with 33 listed fails and tests./
then a bogging page (fuel starvation and dry , not black spark tips)
and a flooding page.
follow the page the applies.

from here
Common-problems

advice. (if mine)?
Fix the CEL lamp if it dont glow key on. that be #1 first
on misfire.
bad fuel
engine not reaching and holding 180F or more? IRGUN (pyrogun is cheap)
rich , got high fuel pressure. 60PSI is good, 10 in bad, 30 is par.
or ECT is bad. 300 ohms when motor is hot.
leaking injector, key on (just look)
02 sensor bad or cracks in exh near it , rendering it useless...
TPS bad, (ECU trying hard to tell you but the CEL lamp burned out 5 years ago?)
lots more,.. 33 in fact.


here is our USA spec 1991 that is TBI system. no carbs here at all.

Last edited by xxx; 12-07-2012 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Sounds like rich misfire.

looking at the spark tips is free, white, tan, brown, black and wet with fuel
? i took them out and there black

anyone can do the spark readings. with just 1 tool

are all those parts changed above new, or used.

all the parts were new except from the wax thermostat thing

ever do a compression test to see how healthy the motor really is??????

nope i havent done one because before i done the conversion and broke the

stat it went like shit of a shouvel and didnt miss a beat

did you find this in a barn or was this a daily driver for 1 year, last year.

it was used daily by my old girl for 6 yrs poodled to work and back
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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great ,its not a FIELD found kick its a DD and is now a F.O.R.D. found on road dead. (i have a ford page too.)
bad fuel is #1 ,

back to the CEL lamp (SES, or MIL)

key on
CEL must glow, does it? if not fix it now. do not ignore the ECU, or you will go broke fast.... it misses most fails but the ones it sees are FACT.
if yes?
then start car, does tHE CEL now go out..... ? if no, then pull the DTCs from ECU memory
use the diag jumper.

CEL check engine lamp

Last edited by xxx; 12-07-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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back to the CEL lamp (SES, or MIL)

key on
CEL must glow, does it?
if yes?
no it does not ive never seen it come on other than when i unpluged a sensor

then start car, does it now go out..... ? if no, then pull the DTCs from ECU memory
use the diag jumper.

im probably going to seem really stupid but could u elabarate the above ?
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