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Old 12-06-2012, 01:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil leak

'89 1.6 8v auto.

Hey guys! I just noticed this morning that I have a oil leak coming from, what appears to be, the lower timing belt cover area.

The power steering is not connected so it is not coming from there.

I haven't crawled under to inspect yet and would probably have to pressure wash that area to pinpoint the leak anyway.

Just curious if there is a common problem that may exist in that area. It would greatly help to know what to look for.

If I have to start taking things apart on the front of the engine I would also like to know which parts should be replaced / checked as a precaution. Obviously, the timing belt would be good.

Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Crank seal behind timing gear but could be from valve cover gasket or oil pan. Dye is also a good way to check. Good luck
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1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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do my bolt torque test
17mm deep wall
is the troque , 50 or less, cry
of over 50 good
if 94/ft/lbs PO reads TSBs what a blessing , that. is.

if less how much less, than 50 , if less the crank snout and cog are doomed.

but it can be other things, only fate rules that world.
wrong oil pump gasket.
front VC gasket can leak from top to bottom behind belt cover.
the cam seal.
guessing here is silly really , look first. then see what leaks.
if you look at the motor , there are only x ways to leak.
pan seal too (RTV)

btw, you do know , you can run a while (weeK) with front plastic cover removed, right? and see the leaks. after a good clean.
this is how to do this, and find out all by your self, and no guessing.......

also the UV dye kit , can shorten diagnostic times....
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys about the dye test. Will try that for sure.

XXX, I guess it is finally time for me to check the torque on that bolt.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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One the seals behind the cover on mine was also leaking. Bought a valve cover gasket and seal kit. Touched the old seal with my finger... stopped leaking. And that was 12000 miles ago.

I cleaned mine up extensively and then drove all highway miles and waited for a leak.

Change water pump, rensioner, both belts, and PCV while you're in there. Flush radiator too. Cheap cheap cheap to do...and hang on to your old belts just in case you ever encounter a suicidal cat.

You can also change all radiator hoses for less than 50$.

Be advised, the bolt may be tightened with the wrong loctite... mine was.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i have that warning on my page
it says
Quote:
never use the impact gun on this bolt.
it may have the 300F grade Loctite on it.
if it must come off (seal service?) and is over 94ft.lbs. then heat the bolt to 300.
use hand power, or risk making the crank just junk.

oh yes,
2 or more posts this forum for the bolt is welded on.,, LOOK FIRST, use a mirror if need be..... leap last.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah I read your warning after applying a bit too much and my gear in my socket let go.

Live and learn.

Has anyone established the limits for the threads for that bolt? 94 ft/lbs is nothing to sneer at, if their wrench is off ten percent.....

I had to have applied over 250ft/lbs to crunch the socket according to the tool Rep. And that baby wasn't budging.

Seems odd that they are so specific at 94...
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