Good day guys - First post here, don't know where else to turn.
About two days ago while driving (can't remember if it occurred soon after a crank up or while driving - I can say it happened suddenly) there was a slight loss of power but moreover the engine sounded worse than a slowed down lawn mower.
At this point I've checked the ignition system and appear to be getting a good spark on that dead cylinder. But it just isn't igniting. I've also swapped around the corresponding cables just in case.
The only thing I can think of at this point would be a fuel system issue. The fuel where I'm at is incredibly horrible so I'm leaning towards a clogged injector.
By hearing I can tell the injector is firing although weak compared to the others.
I've yet to check the compression, but to find a compression tester in my neck of the woods will be a mission, However the vehicle has less than 50k Mileage so this to be honest is the last thing on my mind.
Another thing - there appear to be four odd designed "bolts" holding the throttle assembly onto the intake manifold. They are threaded all the way through with a movable nut. Perhaps a special tool or technique.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Such a work horse this jeep.
Nope,a '92 isn't multiport,it's throttle body,looks like a mutant carb.When you checked fire,did you check the plug or just pull the wire off ? Could be,you could have fire in the wire and a dead plug.
poverty is the mother of invention
So, a 1992 16v EFI Sidekick. 4 injectors = MPI
It would be best if you can find a compression gauge (always good to have, frankly). These early cars had an issue with the crank pulley bolt not being torqued properly, leading to keyway damage. In order to see if the timing is correct on your car, and check the health of the engine, the easiest way is with a compression gauge. Rather than diagnosing through assumption, it is best to actually do diagnostic testing. Loss of power to #3 cylinder may be something quite simple like the valve lash for that cylinder - or, something more complicated. A compression test will confirm this.
Performed a spark test by using the old plug. ( Pulling the wire and testing the plug against the engine block - Appears to have a nice spark )
I'll try my best to source a compression tool and see if this cylinder is in good mechanical order - Just weird but the more things ruled out, the better. Better to do this before I fudge around with something else.
Lastly, as I'm used to doing compression tests mainly on outboards. What is the proper procedure? Disable the Ignition system (Disconnecting primary coil?) and simply test the cranking pressure, or test with the engine running at idle and wot?
Remove the F1 fuse (stops spark and fuel)
Remove all spark plugs.
Insert compression gauge, and crank with gas pedal at wide open throttle (to the floor), until compression peaks (about 5 cranks or less).
You are shooting for about 170psi on all cylinders, and each to be about 10% of each other. If you find a cylinder that is lower, put a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder and try again, to see if the oil raises the compression (rings, etc.). Otherwise check valve lash. If all cylinders are low, then timing is off.
yes, its 92 MPI actual.
and as we all know 4 injectors to leak and clog,
leak fuel or leak air.
sig or photo works best. he/she sounded vague or unsure, so.... why not start off with MOTOR ID.
or drop to basics
tune it up this time, do the 60k mile list. in the op guide. tbelt , spark parts, etc. <, first port of call actual, unless you like doing 20hrs labor to find bad spark.
1: engine good, do the compression test. how knows, maybe signs of future work will be revealed, (canceling long trips,etc, planning, etc.)
2: spark good, and timing advancing like the book shows.
3: good fueling, (MPI that gets dicey)
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