Running rough/engine light/cant read codes??

[xxx]

just use the reg, locktite, not extreme hard, with good parts.
id avoid the 300F 500f removal types. (to loosen)

243 blue liquid, regardless of case colors...

[myvmax1]

The head is still not done(3 or 4 days.... right), so I decide to poke around a bit more today.

Look what I found:

[xxx]

classic,
its listed as 50,000 mile inspection.

if you can get the car in to close loop at idle and cruise.
mPG goes way up
and carbon goes way down an this dont happen.

[Bex]

Enjoy! Tons of info on this on the forum - we have all had to do this dirty job. A little carb cleaner and some elbow grease, and you'll have this shining!

[myvmax1]

Head is in, tomorrow begins the re-assembly.

[xxx]

thanks for sharing such a nice HR photo.
looks good..

[myvmax1]

Head is back on and cam timed, with valves lashed. All is buttoned up except waiting on dizzy O-rings so I can install and time it. Did a compression test and all values are between 168-175 psi cold. Hopefully I can fire it up tomorrow and move on to diagnosing the possible fried ECM (light still comes on with key).

I did end up with a missing hose, going to look at some diagrams here in a minute. Didnt get too worried about it as I had other things to worry about getting done before I had to stop for the day. Here is a pic of said missing line, or where it should go.

Sorry about the picture format. For some reason my computer is being horribly stupid and will not allow me to upload anything. The nipple right there above the brown connector is what I'm talking about. Right side of motor, below intake man., you can see altenator in background.

EDIT: According to this diagram (http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/92-95-8V-EGR1.jpg) it goes to canister. I know I looked and saw both hoses on top of the canister, but I didnt trace them. Guess it probably just hanging down waiting to be reconnected. Times like this I wish I could just walk outside and look lol.

[xxx]

that is evap
the cans have on some 3 nipples
one is just and air vent (bottom)
on to tank vent
and one to vsv evap valve nipple.

[myvmax1]

Fired up, set timing, and completed re-assembly today. Idle is better, sound of engine through the exhaust is TOTALLY different, in a good way, much smoother, dosent sound like a little tractor any more. Didnt run it long as I want to RTV on the valve cover and dizzy housing to cure properly (I hate leaks).

Unfortunatly, Engine light is still on. On with key, and on while running. Cant pull codes, not even code 12, the light just stays solid. As stated before, have tried NAG both ways. Idle is better but still rough, throttle response still has the big hiccup before it spools up. Tachometer does this wierd jump, like the needle has a pulse, but the engine speed remains constant.

I'm thinking my suspicions on the fried ECU are correct. Will be ordering a reman unit here soon. I'll update when that happens. I am going to check the calibration on the TPS though, just because of that hiccup in throttle take up.

[xxx]

great no more 3 cylinder engine (cheers !)
sure seems the ecu is bad, may be in backup mode
fails test 3 (no code 12,etc )
My ECU is bad, now what?
that tacho jump is real odd. (first time ever heard that)

you have all your grounds connected, the tacho is driven
from coil. that jump must be from bad wring from tacho to coil, via
the suppressor.
takes 3 wires, ground tach, and ignition and power to tach, and the tacho sig.
to make tach happy


ecu code 12
on a bench the ecu will flash 12s (or a series for sure)
power pins
ground pins.
CEL
DIag. (2 pins one is ground )

this tells you how sick yours really is.



grounds , g100 down.
common-failures

i forget but is there not a bunch of grounds on your dizzy base screw? a bundle, all very critical too.... G109 yes...