If you know how to solder, It takes 5 minutes and $5 of parts.
Of coarse I know how to solder.
But I'm not sure I want to take a chance on popping a chip from static. Seems I'm a lighting bolt waiting to happen, as I often light up when my finger touches anything around here.
I will pull it, and see just how far I want to go after inspection.
__________________
'92 Samurai ('92 1.6L 8V swap), plated as; ROK ZUKE, caged on 33s, desert play toy... almost complete.
(Build thread; My '92 Sammi in the works)
If your check engine light is on with the key on, and off once the car starts, and you are able to get a code 12 when jumping the diagnostic connector, then your caps are good (for the moment). No harm in ordering them (but you may want to check to see if they have already been replaced. Most early Trackicks have done this already). Check Engine Light
Regarding your ISC solenoid. on your ECU, on the green connector, the ISC driver connects (stock would be with light gree/black wire) to the #6 pin, which, as you are looking at the connector on the ECU, is on the top row, third from the left (this is not the pin location on the harness, but actually on the ECU, so that, when looking at the harness connector, this would be the top row, 3rd from the right). This light green/black wire goes directly from the ECU connector to one of the pins on the ISC connector (output). The other pin (input) is the blue/black wire that goes from the ISC to the main harness splice by the battery in the engine compartment, where the blue/black wire splices off to a number of areas. Factory diagram below. Follow the blue/black wire from the main relay in the first diagram down toward the ISC in the secone one.
your sig looks great and your welcome.
no ISC then NO IDLE CONTROLS. (cept code IAC at base of TBI brick)
now you can add to your sig, missing 92 kick harness. ! big FACT THAT , huh? but expected in Franken land.. for sure, and worse....
first off it is a franken-sammi, . and full of butt slices to the max right?
so you think maybe its a bad input to the ecu.? or outputs failing.
the ecu is always the last to be replace (unless you have a spare just laying about.
A tech,
checks the engine first, (1-good motor, good vacuum good compression)
the checks spark.
static timed right? and did then remove the timing freeze jumper a
then race the motor to see the strobe light go off the scale>? no?
if it dont ,its in limphome, mode.
next:
fueling..
is it over fueling or under fueling
in that order. no other order works.
if a newer car you can scan it and see the sensors mess up.
you cant so must do this the very very hard way.by HAND.
this is the joy of working , non OBD2 cars,
monitoring sensors by hand and logging readings, as you drive. etc.
case in point, obd2 is can log ECT and see that butt splice fail , so easy
but on OBD1 , you get to do that 1 by one all day long. maybe 2 days.
the question is , do you want to do that hard work or get that OBD1 kit from afar.
UK > CA. its you choice.
ok , forgot to say, IT WILL RUN perfect if you are motivated to find all the open wires and bad parts. we can help, 1 by 1....
you can just open the ECU can, (write down the ECU tag number.... , maybe its wrong..//?? ask me)
then look inside, get Back rubicon caps in side, they need exorcizing...
any true electronics shop on earth can do that. just takes a wrist strap. and minor other steps (yes, humidity below 25% is a killer)
one more warning,
i have no idea the ECU pn
and as a frankenkick( all things not possible)
if the PO put in a pre 91 or sammi ECU
the ISC on your car is ok, for 91 plus ECU be never the others.
case in point.
89 ecu >> 91+ ecu wrong
91 ECU >>> 89 (or sammi) ISC, blows up ECU.
... I now have all my tuneup parts. And am swapping/installing as we speak. However, while I waited for the parts to arrive... I took on another MOD to the existing track/kick power steering.
I removed all the track/kick p/s, and am replacing it with a huge saginaw steering gear and a new P pump. This required me to cut off (with a plasma cutter) the existing plate on the frame, weld up the holes... and redo the mounting for the new box (plus lots of other things to fit the larger box). I'm in process of that now... and will get back to the "tuneup" when I'm done.
Still have yet to pull the ECU and check it's version/model part numbers.
__________________
'92 Samurai ('92 1.6L 8V swap), plated as; ROK ZUKE, caged on 33s, desert play toy... almost complete.
(Build thread; My '92 Sammi in the works)
If your check engine light is on with the key on, and off once the car starts, and you are able to get a code 12 when jumping the diagnostic connector, then your caps are good (for the moment). No harm in ordering them (but you may want to check to see if they have already been replaced. Most early Trackicks have done this already). Check Engine Light
Regarding your ISC solenoid. on your ECU, on the green connector, the ISC driver connects (stock would be with light gree/black wire) to the #6 pin, which, as you are looking at the connector on the ECU, is on the top row, third from the left (this is not the pin location on the harness, but actually on the ECU, so that, when looking at the harness connector, this would be the top row, 3rd from the right). This light green/black wire goes directly from the ECU connector to one of the pins on the ISC connector (output). The other pin (input) is the blue/black wire that goes from the ISC to the main harness splice by the battery in the engine compartment, where the blue/black wire splices off to a number of areas. Factory diagram below. Follow the blue/black wire from the main relay in the first diagram down toward the ISC in the secone one.
I'll check into this Bex... thank you.
I've yet to pull the ECU... my garage is a mess right now, but I'll be buttoning up the engine bay (tune-ups) tomorrow. And finish welding early next week (waiting on parts) for my new power steering. I'll be checking the ECU info very soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx
your sig looks great and your welcome.
no ISC then NO IDLE CONTROLS. (cept code IAC at base of TBI brick)
now you can add to your sig, missing 92 kick harness. ! big FACT THAT , huh? but expected in Franken land.. for sure, and worse....
first off it is a franken-sammi, . and full of butt slices to the max right?
Ya... I guess you can call it a franken-sammi. However, it's not all botched together. So no... any and all "butt" splices, crimp connects, scotch locks, or wire taps have been removed. I went through and soldered all connections and re-taped the wire loom. Also removed some bad job they did on a starting solenoid apparatus, and re-built it to a higher standard.
so you think maybe its a bad input to the ecu.? or outputs failing.
If the ICS isn't connected at all... I'm not sure what's "bad". Maybe nothing, but a few missing connections. Who knows.
I DID find a pinky finger sized hole in my air plenum on the back side, underneath. Looks like it may have rubbed on something at one time or another. I repaired it, and checked all hoses for leaks/cracks.
the ecu is always the last to be replace (unless you have a spare just laying about.
A tech,
checks the engine first, (1-good motor, good vacuum good compression)
the checks spark.
static timed right? and did then remove the timing freeze jumper a
then race the motor to see the strobe light go off the scale>? no?
if it dont ,its in limphome, mode.
Haven't got a timing light... so, I'll have to borrow one. But I'm just about done with the rest of the tune-up (most all parts are here). All the timing marks line up correctly, and even though I'm replacing the water pump, timing belt and tensioner... it all seemed okay when I began removing it all. Key in the cam cog is good too.
next:
fueling..
is it over fueling or under fueling
I'll check this with a fuel pressure gauge when I'm done tuning it up.
in that order. no other order works.
if a newer car you can scan it and see the sensors mess up.
you cant so must do this the very very hard way.by HAND.
this is the joy of working , non OBD2 cars,
monitoring sensors by hand and logging readings, as you drive. etc.
case in point, obd2 is can log ECT and see that butt splice fail , so easy
but on OBD1 , you get to do that 1 by one all day long. maybe 2 days.
the question is , do you want to do that hard work or get that OBD1 kit from afar.
UK > CA. its you choice.
ok , forgot to say, IT WILL RUN perfect if you are motivated to find all the open wires and bad parts. we can help, 1 by 1....
I'm motivated... more by OCD, then anything else. I like my stuff to be right, and as-it-should-be originally. However, since it's got a 1.6... it'll never be "original". But I can do my best to get it as close to 'perfect' as possible.
It'll make future troubleshooting much easier. Plus, I'll know the vehicle much better... as I'm learning a lot!!
you can just open the ECU can, (write down the ECU tag number.... , maybe its wrong..//?? ask me)
then look inside, get Back rubicon caps in side, they need exorcizing...
any true electronics shop on earth can do that. just takes a wrist strap. and minor other steps (yes, humidity below 25% is a killer)
I will, very soon. Once I'm done with all the other "stuff"
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx
one more warning,
i have no idea the ECU pn
and as a frankenkick( all things not possible)
if the PO put in a pre 91 or sammi ECU
the ISC on your car is ok, for 91 plus ECU be never the others.
case in point.
89 ecu >> 91+ ecu wrong
91 ECU >>> 89 (or sammi) ISC, blows up ECU.
we need the ECU pn.
That part number will be coming... very soon!
__________________
'92 Samurai ('92 1.6L 8V swap), plated as; ROK ZUKE, caged on 33s, desert play toy... almost complete.
(Build thread; My '92 Sammi in the works)
TO LOOSEN THE VALVE LASH so the cam tensioner can be set correctly.
Question:
How in the world, can the timing belt tensioner be misadjusted if the valve lash isn't loosened BEFORE making cam tensioner adjustments?!
I simply cannot see a relation, from the valve lash and the timing belt tensioner. The timing belt tensioner has some archaic little lever and spring to set belt tension... and once you tighten the stud to 8ft/lbs, the tensioner is no longer operated by the tiny spring or lever to the tensioner wheel. And, the tension mechanism doesn't operate smoothly unless you have a brand new mechanism. If it's old, it'll have marks/gouges from the stud that keep it from moving smoothly in the slot.
How does loosening the valve clearance (lash), help adjust timing belt tension? Is it due to the belt tension (on the passenger side of the motor - not the tight drivers side) when turning the cam shaft/crankshaft bolt?
And yes, my timing marks are spot on.
__________________
'92 Samurai ('92 1.6L 8V swap), plated as; ROK ZUKE, caged on 33s, desert play toy... almost complete.
(Build thread; My '92 Sammi in the works)
you didnt read my page, it explains that but is a great question !!
the cam has bias.
turn it by hand and feel it, feel it go thumb , thumb by hand>?
that bias , renders tension spring totally useless.
the 16v has a balanced bias. 16 springs work way different.
so dont need the adjusters relax
i have my page there
the full FSM 2 times.
and the comes with sheet of paper, with belt and all show that fact.
but none explain why.
with correct tension(Gates has great white papers on topic, if you want) the belt lasts longer, for sure, not guessing , a FACT.
there are 2 types OHC engines. one with LIVE RUN time tension-er.
and then this (static system)
you loosen the stud, set the tension, then lock the tension down for 60k miles
the spring is DEAD for 60k miles. this is not just on SUZUKI"S
you didnt read my page, it explains that but is a great question !!
the cam has bias.
turn it by hand and feel it, feel it go thumb , thumb by hand>?
that bias , renders tension spring totally useless.
the 16v has a balanced bias. 16 springs work way different.
so dont need the adjusters relax
i have my page there
the full FSM 2 times.
and the comes with sheet of paper, with belt and all show that fact.
but none explain why.
with correct tension(Gates has great white papers on topic, if you want) the belt lasts longer, for sure, not guessing , a FACT.
there are 2 types OHC engines. one with LIVE RUN time tension-er.
and then this (static system)
you loosen the stud, set the tension, then lock the tension down for 60k miles
the spring is DEAD for 60k miles. this is not just on SUZUKI"S
I DID read your page(s)... in fact, I've read MANY of them several times.
I understand the "bias" you speak of, and the more I read... the more it makes sense.
Wit that... I just don't understand how this tensioner can be worth a crap (it's not very accurate). The FSM talks about the retaining bolt... and "Do not tighten fully" at step 8 on page 6A1-15. Now... I can back it off slightly and it will move so much that any sharp rotation movement on the camshaft will SLOPPILY adjust the tensioner. If I snug down the bolt with my finger a bit more, it allows the tensioner plate to stay a bit more in it's place after two rotations of the crankshaft. But I have to make sure, when I rotate the crankshaft I do so in slow smooth movements, or it'll move the tensioner in a "less taught" direction (seemingly from the 'backlash' of the belt).
I know I'm making a mountain out of a molehill with this, but I've read your "warnings" and want to make sure I've done this right.
SO... I'm going to do this again, starting at step 1... referring to the FSM, and your documents. AND, I'll make sure to relieve the valve lash adjusting screws before adjusting the tensioner.
I also have to put a washer between the tensioner plate stud and tensioner plate. There wasn't one there when I took it apart, which left indentations in the tensioner plate (not allowing it to slide smoothly on the stud). I smoothed it out on my table, and it works much better... but, needs the washer to be "best" (or, I can just replace it all-together).
__________________
'92 Samurai ('92 1.6L 8V swap), plated as; ROK ZUKE, caged on 33s, desert play toy... almost complete.
(Build thread; My '92 Sammi in the works)
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