I see you altered your original post quite a bit.
This one is much easier to read, and it seems you answered some of your own questions from the original post (by reading back in the thread maybe?).
See my responses in red;
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx
no real dash temp gauge off road is a wild idea, doing crawling... wow,,,,
Like I mentioned, it's only it's second time out with me. The first time was a 100 miles of off-road (not rock crawling but 5% of the time), and the second was 40 miles (some of it in sand dunes, some mud hills and no rock crawling). If it's a good idea to get a real digital temp gauge... of coarse I'll have one, but I don't do "real rock crawling" as of yet.
popping to the air cleaner to to the tail end
"popping"... no. Bad example. More like sputtering as-if trying to get fuel, or being starved for fuel. It wasn't backfiring nor was it coughing out the air-cleaner. It just seemed to be a fuel problem (whether it was lean or rich... not sure, but I didn't smell fuel nor see smoke out the tail pipe. So I assumed lean)
140F is a fail
Even if in my garage... just idling? When the ambient temps are 65F° outside and maybe 70 in the garage?
where is the photo of engine, its a franken kick, (i have 100 questions on that)
i suspect it didnt get to 180f in 20 minute, but it must get there eventually and
hold there like a rock.
nice build review, seem all the critical parts are there.
Ah, make sure the CEL is on with key on and off when the car is running.... With your list completed, then you will be able to see exactly how the car runs, and what needs to be 'repaired'. Good luck, and report back when you're done. Hopefully all problems will be alleviated with proper maintenance. By the way, when you do your compression test, you are shooting for about 170psi on all cylinders, warm engine, pedal WOT during test. Anything appreciably different that that might push your t-belt replacement further up the list. And while you are doing that, you should also do your valve lash.....
I added the timing belt, and tensioner to my order.
I didn't realize it would be that easy... so, I should have it done next week too.
Thanks for the additional info. I'm sure once I get started I'll have a few more questions.
i suspect it didnt get to 180f in 20 minute, but it must get there eventually and
hold there like a rock.
nice build review, seem all the critical parts are there.
Okee dokee... I'll have this "tune up" done by end of next week or just after. Maybe somethings will come back to 'normal'. Like my idle... and the operating temp.
I started to look, read, and enjoy the vast amount of information on your website. I want to say THANK YOU! The time it takes for you to put your knowledge onto the site, type it all out... link to pictures, and editing the pictures with notes... just amazing. All owners of this vehicle are in debt to your knowledge and ability to share. Where's the "tip jar"?
With that... I found my ISC doesn't have any electrical connections, connected. And no connector, missing or hanging among the engine bay wiring. It must have NOT been added when they did the engine swap?!
Would this be (one of the reasons) why my vehicle idles as it does?
I tested the ISC by applying 12V/grnd with the engine running, and I went from 800-1000 rpm way up to approx. 1500 rpm (I didn't look at the tach).
So, I know the ISC isn't stuck open... it's just not connected.
I guess my next question is; Should I look into re-connecting the ISC Electrical, so that it can operate as it's designed to do? If so, I'd need to know where it originally got it's power/ground from and where to find that wire and it's color. I'd assume the ECU would control this... but, can anyone shed some light on this?
My actual engine bay;
Last edited by JohnnyAirtime; 11-28-2012 at 11:30 AM.
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With your list completed, then you will be able to see exactly how the car runs, and what needs to be 'repaired'. Good luck, and report back when you're done. Hopefully all problems will be alleviated with proper maintenance. By the way, when you do your compression test, you are shooting for about 170psi on all cylinders, warm engine, pedal WOT during test. Anything appreciably different that that might push your t-belt replacement further up the list. And while you are doing that, you should also do your valve lash.....
Where's the "tip jar"? 
Linear Mode
