96 Tracker bogging or rich?

[xxx]

#3 is sick based in the reading, done dry.

engine shaking (gross misfire, could the be #3, is it fouling the spark plug there?

idle all over the place (from 1300 to 550) sure if misfire happens , ecu cant control idle
if real bad..
hesitation upon acceleration (flat terrain), more misfire.
temperature gauge mostly towards the cold reading (not that the gauge reading means anything) (IR gun tells the truth a cheap, pyro gun. aimed at T stat housing
but i bet its; ok. (
poor fuel economy (yes 3 cylinder dragging 1 dead and then the dead makes to contribution.


sudden puffs of black smoke with a backfire sound (not very often, 3 times since I started this thread) Running rich, the CAT will get red hot... if not dead already.
the good cat can eat tons of raw fuel when hot.

a vacuum gauges is a tool that is at the top of every mechanics check list.
, 19inches steady at sea-level.
but if it bounces like mad that may be a bad #3 intake valve.

that spark tool, leak down fitting
attached to #3 spark hole
you block crank form turning at #3 firing point (dizzy rotor shows you)
The apply pressure, do you hear load hiss intake horn.
yes?, intake valve bad.

you can even hear the natural air leak past rings.
same trick works at exhaust port. hisssss

we are still stuck at #1
bad motor.
can i assume when you find a weak cylinder, you repeated the test.
clearing off the pressure release on the tool>?
then do oil check, 1 teaspoon of oil.
it seals the rings. ,

head bolts i cover that on my hard to find parts page
but as always, most stores mix 8v and 16v parts
and head bolts are that topic.
hard to find parts, some are very hard !
ARP has bolts and studs, tricky ordering, YMMV , if rich $$$, big time expensive.
Suzuki has them !
dont buy alstrom
i looked at their page now, and the photo for 16v 96 shows 8v bolts.
sad, and i told them 3 years ago it was wrong....
the lady said, i had to prove it to her.....
I said, well the 16v bolts are allen and are very small and 8v is big and will
not fit in the machined socket.s i wasted my breath.

But Rock didnt have them, then but do now, great !

thanks for the rock pn.
DNJ
the icon of the part there shows the correct part , their ecat shows correct part.
hbk-530 I ADDED IT.
DNJ Online Parts Catalog


this stock suzuki parts is $5 each. so x10 that,
the links to said parts are my page above. buy parts page.

parting shot. of someone put a 92 16v head on your car , all bets off, the head has codes. top left side hear rim of vc. for that lil secret.

[gorkybolanos]

Done making the leak down tester, will try it out tonight.

Still have to do the compression test on cyl#3 with the bit of oil added to it.

What would be the most effective test to figure out the condition of the rings?

XXX-I just read your page about vacuum testing for a bad cat. I have the vacuum gauge but so far only used it to test diaphragms and valves, I am slowly learning more uses for these tools (thanks to you guys)

[xxx]

the leak down gage fools many people
and for good reasons..
the biggest confusion is caused by not testing the gage first.
this gets most users.
but your gage lacks the auto shut off end. , step 2. (no big deal.)
the blocked end hose check, sets the leak rate to 0.
then when opened , and connected to the engine , you see true leak rates.
you could use yours at step 9, finger on end, set reg to 15psi.

How to do compression test?


ok there are 3 tests.
compression dry
comp wet
and leak down
the 3 tell you the true leakage
say compression is low.
and wet, is way better ( you can listen do intake valve leak so easY)
you can then do a leak down. test. and see true ring leakage after all the valves are good. (wet made it way better,leaking valves dont pass wet)

not only that, the cylinder can leak at anypoint in the piston STROKE
so you can (tricky move that crank lock by hand (TDC down)
and walk that cylinder down inch by inch till exh valve opens (starts)
and see if the leak rate is worse in some spots.?
15% is consider bad.
my gauge (i checked it ) was 15PSI.
100% is leakage is 0psi
0% leakage is 15psi. (end plugged) reg set.
a linear function.
so 15% would be 2.25psi on the dial
my page show that gutted spark plug and nipple is all you need to hear the leaks
use a 15-25psi line reg.
but this tool (full) can do way more. even find a damaged cylinder wall.

nice to know before wasting a weekend on head when block s bad,
lets you make better choices...

cheers

[Bex]

Originally Posted by gorkybolanos

What would be the most effective test to figure out the condition of the rings?

Pour tbls of oil into the cylinder, crank a couple of times to spread it, then perform the compression test again. If the compression comes up markedly, then its the ring not sealing properly. Some info here:
Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine

[gorkybolanos]

ok - I am at a stand still at this point. Did the oil in the spark plug on cylinder 3 but I messed up - put too much oil. Don't ask me why > so when I ran the compression test again the gauge was showing crazy numbers (nearly 250) this was on Wednesday last week.

I went through xxx's page (step by step this time) so I pulled out the fuel injection fuse located in the fuse box next to the coolant overfill tank (the 15 amp right next to the 25 amp) I disconnected the electrical connector from the distributor. Pulled all 4 spark plugs at the same time and spark plug wires and started testing cylinder per cylinder starting at #1 (4 to 5 turns on the engine) battery is strong. Very loud buzzing sound in the dash area when key goes to the start position when the FI fuse is pulled out. All four cylinders (including #3) between 179 and 182 (test was done WOT) is cylinder 3 up to 180 now because residual from the too much oil I put last week Wednesday? if so, how do I fix this so I can get actual true results next time?

[xxx]

you hyrolocked it, that is really wild.
that can bend a rod or worse pronto. (pray it blows a $15 meter first.
a teaspoon 5cc,( so you used 10times more?), is a teaspoon not 55cc that will lock it, liquids can not be compressed
and then only with nuclear bombs. (NSA it's a joke , i promise.......)
if you didn't put in the oil , then the head gasket is blown
the head oil feed, is in the front left corner of head.

so your 180 on all 4 , whats the worry? but do make sure the oil is out of those
jugs, most of it. use a hose and a turkey baster. suck it out. most of it.
the oil must never exceed the combustion chamber volume, at TDC.
or BOOM bye bye motor, BIG TIME. KEEP THE SPARKS OUT , UNTIL SURE, ALL IS GOOD.

[Bex]

Originally Posted by gorkybolanos

I pulled out the fuel injection fuse located in the fuse box next to the coolant overfill tank

Isn't your fuse box under the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel??
Sorry about your oil mishap - xxx's idea of the turkey baster to remove the excess oil is a good one. Good luck.

[xxx]

sorry bex, they moved FI to box 1 , next to battery in all USA and Canada cars in 1996
see my fuse page for proof
bex 97 , is a far diffr, car than i USA spec car... i think.

i think he pulled #7



i do hope he does not bend a rod... I sure do......

[gorkybolanos]

Funny you say that because I spent a good part of last night trying to figure out if I was pulling out the right fuse. Yes I have two fuse boxes, one by the driver's left knee and another one in the engine bay. After reading xxx's page and a couple threads on this forum I found a picture of the plastic cover for the engine bay fuse box (mine is missing) and in the picture if shows the name for that fuse as FI so I pulled that one. I did not have a turkey baster but I used my shop vac and a rubber grommet fitting I made a while ago to hook up a 1/4" tubing piece at the end. The vacuum pulled hard but barely any oil came out. I put everything back together and started the car to see if I messed up the engine big time when I hydrolocked it but everything sounded normal. I received the exhaust gas ingress tester and tried it out last night but the liquid didn't turn green (I tested it next to the exhaust pipe and it turned green and back to blue when fresh air was sucked in) it was late so I didn't keep testing. I still can't keep a close loop fuel system (insufficient engine temperature) When I was trying to get a vacuum source for the tester I found out that someone had repaired the top connection on the EVAP2 VsV (as labeled on the EGR-repair-methods on fixkick) with epoxy, it seems as it had broken off at some point, this could be a source of vacuum leak so I'm going to fix it tonight, the epoxy did a good job holding the plastic nipple in place but it's now sliding up and down on the base made with the hardened epoxy putty.

xxx - I checked the compression tester gauge closely after your comment last night and the back plate (where the numbers are printed) does seem wobbly, hopefully that's all the damage I did. Can you also please expand a little bit on "if you didn't put in the oil , then the head gasket is blown
the head oil feed, is in the front left corner of head. "

[gorkybolanos]

I pulled the one circled in red