Yes, I understand method 1. But you hear this guy talking about the 'catch point' on the clutch which is quite important. This catch point can be anywhere on the clutch pedal travel, and can be adjusted to a certain extent. For example, I know exactly where my catch point is (and rarely use the handbrake method which is very popular over here). So I am facing uphill, stopped, with my foot on the brake, I depress my clutch pedal, and start letting it up. Just before I hit that catch point, I take my foot off the brake and get on to the gas, and start giving the car gas. Basically, in the time it has taken for my foot to go from the brake pedal to the gas pedal, I have reach the 'catch point', and the clutch has engaged so that I start to move, because I am now giving it gas. My car never 'shakes', as the timing is just right, as I know exactly where that catch point is. Doing it the other way (getting the catch point first, before going on to the gas pedal) means that the clutch is now engaged, but for the time it takes to now get your foot from the brake to the gas, the clutch is engaging with no gas, revs are dropping (and car would eventually stall). And the car is rolling backward, as well. I'm not saying that there is nothing wrong with your idle, only that this is not the way to test it. If you try method 2 in the video, clutch depressed, handbrake on, foot on gas, now giving the car a bit of gas while you are releasing the handbrake, you may find that this is an easier method for you, as your timing does not have to be nearly as good.
but is this his first manual clutch car?
(after all if it is , you will never tell him ever how it must feel, )
that be #1
and 2, has he ever driven someone else's manual.?
i know folks that never seen or driving a manual ( some, never heard the word)
and some have only driven THIS car. or only this manual car.
or THIS car is bad. (for like a year, or whole time they owned it) clueless....
i get in and like, gee guy , this is bad?
but is this his first manual clutch car?
(after all if it is , you will never tell him ever how it must feel, )
that be #1
and 2, has he ever driven someone else's manual.?
i know folks that never seen or driving a manual ( some, never heard the word)
and some have only driven THIS car. or only this manual car.
or THIS car is bad. (for like a year, or whole time they owned it) clueless....
i get in and like, gee guy , this is bad?
I started learning driving at the beginning of this year. However, I only learned several hours on other's car (05 volvo S60 manual-trans 4 hours, mazada auto-trans, 1 hour) before I bought this sidekick in March. After that, I didn't have a continue learning on driving because the only friend who can teach stick-shift is busy. I did learned basics of driving stick-shift and need practice more. Finally, I got my driver license by using a auto-transmission car on September. Then, I drive my sidekick to some road with a little traffic to practice more.
My friend told me my car is much harder to drive and learn than his volvo S60 stick-shift.
I can post two videos to show the "hard to shift" issue
You might feel that I am shifting in an abuse way. But, I have to push that hard. I have already been very careful about shifting. The ex-owner's shifting is way much rude than mine.
but is this his first manual clutch car?
(after all if it is , you will never tell him ever how it must feel, )
that be #1
and 2, has he ever driven someone else's manual.?
i know folks that never seen or driving a manual ( some, never heard the word)
and some have only driven THIS car. or only this manual car.
or THIS car is bad. (for like a year, or whole time they owned it) clueless....
i get in and like, gee guy , this is bad?
I drove in a very big out-side parking lot yesterday with OBD recoded. I did WOT test but it seems it only recoded 400 seconds. I can post them. I was aware of the voltage of O2 sensor, one of them was close to 0.09V.
I will upload the PID screenshots after test1 and test3 in the attachments.
test 1 starts from a about 20 degree slope up-hill, and is driving in a very big parking lot.
test 3 is on way back to home. it has a lot of "stop sign" close to downtown (it is a very small downtown.)
that ok , we are not picking on you, I taught 2 sis and 1 wife to drive 327chev PU
with 4speed and wife in 96 kick 5sp, not one wet tear. (they all passed too, 1st time)
all i see is 0 MPH, on all. sorry.
best is to have a friend, who drives sticks, ask him to drive.
and ask him, is my clutch working right? (engaging well? and not slipping?)
and if that passes?, is engine lacking power off the line, for 1.8L
not big v8
the recording on the free software, may be limited to 400seconds (crippleware?)
so have someone hit record just before a hill and flog that sucker.
or just have them tell you, in real time, the max MAF, lbs/sec number hit
6-7 lbs/sec is in the realm.
sorry if im too soon looking, at photos posted.
i think your iSC is bad (it needs good clean job)
im just checking maf to be sure its good , the car will never run right with a bad maf
the ECU can simulate a dead or very weak maf in limphome
and ISC function is disabled in limphome, but it dont look like it is in limphome
the 02 is swinging fully.
there are 2 other PO reasons for bad idle. (like in, my PO was and idiot he.....)
on 1.8L some body messed with the idle stop screw.
The TPS has no idle switch on the 1.8 , it uses voltage off the TPS throttle angle
(pure software now.) that looks at angle and does, bingo idle (if have the books for cal)
but if some PO fiddles the TPS cal and the voltage is now too high , there will be no idle controls.
I think #2 PO crazy hack,is reported by ECU, but not #1 the stop screw hacked.
the stop screw can be set wrong (its a no touch screw) and lots air enters. this makes the idle so fast the ECU
can not drop it.
this is all I know on 1.8 ECU besides it uses COPS.
they are rare,
btw. that crazy PO had a reason.
1: car idled wrong (idle way low.)
2: so PO, didnt want to fix or clean the jammed ISC
3:so PO took that stop screw and set it open at 1000 rpm
note ISC is still dead and idle is tad high.
vast posts here for this crazy stuff.(not just 1.8)
or repeat same and fiddle the TPS blind, or gawd forbid both, like one guy last week.
that ok , we are not picking on you, I taught 2 sis and 1 wife to drive 327chev PU
with 4speed and wife in 96 kick 5sp, not one wet tear. (they all passed too, 1st time)
all i see is 0 MPH, on all. sorry.
2 pictures in the attachments are the screenshots after test (the car is not moving). The voltage of O2 sensor shocked me. I might be busy in the next two week due to closing to final exam. But I will keep tracking the issues.
I feel very lucky to get this car at very cheap price. And I learned a lot knowledge that average people won't know.
Jenaflex - first, remember that reverse gear is not synchronized, so sometimes you will get a bit of grinding when going into reverse. I normally will put the shift lever into another gear first (all other gears are synchronized, so there should be no grinding at all), and then go into reverse, which will stop the grind. However, it is also possible that your clutch is not adjusted properly (as it is hydraulic, have you checked the hydraulic clutch fluid level??)l and that it is grabbing too low in the pedal travel, so that the clutch plates don't fully disengage. Clutches can be adjusted so that the pedal 'grabs' higher or lower on the pedal travel. It is better to have the clutch grabbing about halfway up the travel. If it grabs too low (close to the floor), first, it is much harder to get familiar with that 'catch point', plus you are not really sure if the clutch itself fully disengages as there is not that much travel to make sure the plates truly separate properly. The first thing that I would do is to make sure that your clutch fluid is at the proper level, and get your clutch adjusted so that the catch point is higher up on the pedal travel.
I believe one of the posts suggests the clutch engages with the pedal very close to the floor - this suggests that the clutch is worn and needs replacement - since we're discussing the 1.8 Sport here, it's a hydraulic clutch, and there is no cable to be adjusted.
__________________
93 - 1.3 Suzuki Swift GLX
98 - 1.8 Mitsubishi Pajero iO
98 - 2.0 Suzuki Grand Vitara
Jenaflex - first, remember that reverse gear is not synchronized, so sometimes you will get a bit of grinding when going into reverse. I normally will put the shift lever into another gear first (all other gears are synchronized, so there should be no grinding at all), and then go into reverse, which will stop the grind. However, it is also possible that your clutch is not adjusted properly (as it is hydraulic, have you checked the hydraulic clutch fluid level??)l and that it is grabbing too low in the pedal travel, so that the clutch plates don't fully disengage. Clutches can be adjusted so that the pedal 'grabs' higher or lower on the pedal travel. It is better to have the clutch grabbing about halfway up the travel. If it grabs too low (close to the floor), first, it is much harder to get familiar with that 'catch point', plus you are not really sure if the clutch itself fully disengages as there is not that much travel to make sure the plates truly separate properly. The first thing that I would do is to make sure that your clutch fluid is at the proper level, and get your clutch adjusted so that the catch point is higher up on the pedal travel.
The clutch fluid is full. The fluid is black. I know the fresh fluid is like golden.
sure, if the mc for it is good? and the slave and not full of air? or leaking?
on hyra, it is common to have the pedal go too close to the floor
to disengage.(rapid leak downs)
so the op , has to pump it.
fail 2:
but engage? too soon?, that is leak down
you hold the pedal to the floor.
and the MC leaks down. (bad piston seal)
and they you let up and bingo , engages too soon
9 out of 10 times it's a slave, then mC
then clutch last.
the acid test is on my page,.1.8 is on the bottom)
a 2 person check , and checks the stoke length.
Proc:
person 2 under car
person 1 pushes pedal to floor, and holds
person 2, says it moved 3/4 inch (and dont leak)
person 2 says, hold there for 1min.
and sees that the slave dont walk back, if it does the (slave or mc are bad)
id to that 100 times before i pulled clutch. sure would with 4wd. 8 hrs labor that.
if it is the clutch its the fingers in the PP that are heat damaged and annealed.
IMHO, wish i could do it for you, for free. 15min, done. end to end.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
