the gears in the tranny spin even in neutral. (bad cluster bearings if noisy)
but never ever, must they sing, with clutch down to the floor.
the clutch disconnects the tranny from the engine 100%
(one exception is the bad flywheel pilot bearing, causing same symptom.
I agree. I heard the normal sound of spinning. But, if I press the clutch pedal to the floor, the gears should stop spinning, am I right? In contrast, I still hear the sound until I shift into gear(force gears stop spinning because output shaft is NOT spinning.)
Sometimes, when I am lucky enough, before the car totally stop (for example, before meet a STOP sign, speed@2~5mph), I could press the clutch pedal to floor and shift to 1st gear very easily like 'slide in'.
I GUESS, it might result from the 1st gear is synchronized by 2~5mph speed, NOT by synchronizer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx
but same solution, a new clutch
if the lever moved 3/4" and the clutch drags, the clutch is bad.
that is the best data we have... that 19mm.. test.
thanks for that great video, no one has ever offered that, thanks!'\
looks like 3/4 to me.. 19mm (20 rounded off to metric.)
can i presume there was no play?
I don't understand 'no play'. Sorry. I guess the 'play' here means a distance, e.g. 'free play'.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx
before the test>
and i see no leaks
and it passes the no creep test.
if 19mm stroke the the body parts are good.
then it is:
bad pressure plate
cracked disc.
seized pilot bearing.
sorry if that is true. lots of work. blessings
I have another discover
look my picture. the clutch pedal doesn't back to position limit when it is NOT pressed.
look my picture. the clutch pedal doesn't back to position limit when it is NOT pressed.
are you saying the spring is missing or broken here?
vids?
im just a retired tech, not a publisher or video producer, (a hack) i dont to tagging. sorry, it's not in my pay scale.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenaflex
I agree. I heard the normal sound of spinning. But, if I press the clutch pedal to the floor, the gears should stop spinning yes, am I right? YES In contrast, I still hear the sound until I shift into gear(force gears stop spinning because output shaft is NOT spinning.)
as you move the pedal down, and take up the free play the throw out bearing
hits, and if that makes noise at the hit point, that is a bad throw out bearing
if you press the clutch to the floor, the engine is now 100% disconnected ( this is normal)
from the tranny so there can be no tranny spinning or noise. (that is the #1 purpose of the manual clutch to dsiEnage 100% on demand)
(except the noisy throw out if applicle able , above.)
if the clutch flywheel pilot bearing is burned up it will drag and will spin
the tranny input shaft and cause the tranny to receive engine torque all times running, (in ANY AMOUNTs and all are BAD,
yes, the synchros do help, but is torture to them. shifting under power. (ignore this, fix the drag)
Sometimes, when I am lucky enough, before the car totally stop (for example, before meet a STOP sign, speed@2~5mph), I could press the clutch pedal to floor and shift to 1st gear very easily like 'slide in'. (ignore this, this is a clutch issue, not tranny or gears or synro's , noise does matter, but right now the clutch is bad)
I GUESS, it might result from the 1st gear is synchronized by 2~5mph speed, NOT by synchronizer. YES< the SYNCHRO tries hard.
and is TORTURE. YES the Synchro is helping hide it... yes...
I don't understand 'no play'. Sorry. I guess the 'play' here means a distance, e.g. 'free play'.
all machines have clearances. and some are called play. (the connotation is a crude, clearance is free play.
the clutch free play is just such a phrase.
or the 3 cables on the throttle must have spec, free play, of 1/4"
i'd never say the main bearing play is .002, id say , clearance.
the connotation is precision.
I have another discovery
look my picture. the clutch pedal doesn't back to position limit when it is NOT pressed.
ok,not sure what this is.
the pedal must not be broken or cracked, (any damage)_
it must be adjusted like the book shows.
there are 2 settings.
pedal height (in respect to brake pedal)
and play (free play)
there must be some small play in the pedal at the push rod.
the industry spec.. on that is minimum 1mm.
when the clutch pedal is relaxed.
the push rod must never be pushing the MC ever relaxed. (on brakes its a man killer, getting this wrong....)
but the clutch rod, behind the MC must have 1mm min play.
you will see 6 time that at the pedal pat. say at least 6mm.
see? Im not sure the exact spec, on 1.8L because the silly suzuki books
dont cover this. sadly. they assume you assume the play is same as 1.6L
a bloody joke.
no matter i use the industry standard (ASE) rules . when un sure.
on the other side, of this rule
is too much play at the pedal, say you had 2 inches.
this would cause the slave to not move 0.75 inches, 19mm
see?
and the clutch would drag.
that is why i focus on the slave.
if slave moves at spec
then its a clutch issue
if not? body issues.
i dont use chain wrenches unless, desperate, what does this have to do with a clutch?
Quote:
look my picture. the clutch pedal doesn't back to position limit when it is NOT pressed.
i dont understand the pedal questions. is the spring broken or missing on the pedal. (ill get the EPC drawings on this) now.
in my car the pedal up limits are these huge plastic capped screws,
and the rod stroke is controlled by the clevis rod (threads) jam nut.
i think the clutch height is set 1/4" suz states 5mm above the brake, no 1.8L coments in the 1.8L supplementary manual. so.... 5mm
and the rod is set to 1mm or 2, (min,, i have no 1.8L spec on this)
the total pedal play (at pad) is 15 to 25mm on 1.6L kicks. (see that in the slide show)
if you set the play to 1/4" (6mm) the slave will move farther (potentially) and less drag. with a bad clutch
see the stop screw on the pedal, bottom left
and the m/T clutch active switch ? prevents cranking....?
those 2 points limit all pedal movement.
the clevis shaft and rod, set MC play.
see?
ill state the obvious
if the pedal moves the MC piston the maximum distance (with 1mm gap to start) you will get max slave movement. (19mm best we can tell with 4 reports))
if you get the max slave movement and the clutch drags
there is only one solution. new clutch,(2 bearings. PP, and disc)
see any missing parts?
see that spring plate (gold) missing or the spring it fits? missing?
see epc1 ?
missing part 20 or 21?
clutch pedals are a high failure in kicks. vast hits.
with no spring (and friends)
the pedal may force the piston, (under its own weight) in ward (no 1mm free play like i said)
and if so, blocks the MC return vents ! bad.
this will make the SLAVE fail or short stroke, (all any random action it wants)
that is why i wanted 19mm stroke, see?
that is a bench mark,
but not inspecting pedals is bad, and for sure missing parts , tops the list.
as does a broken return spring, stud.
im told suz revised this 1.8L design , and have no details on this...
for sure any bad clutch, start at left foot and work down. for best results.$$$$
One of “free-lock wheel” hubs is very easy to be turned by hand, another one is hard to be turned by hand, but can be turned by a pliers. How can I lubricate it without disassemble it? Can I use penetrating oil?
all that is in the service schedule the hubs are what a 15k item?
Inspect (oops your's fail ) and service.
bullet #2 manual lockers. (clean and grease them)
All you need to do is to remove the locker, which is the uppermost set of 6 screws (not the ones closer to the wheel). When you remove the locker, you will need to clean, lubricate and reassemble. Here is one site that deals specifically with the locker and how the parts go back together: Manual Hub Clutch Assembly
And if you really want to get creative, here is a video on servicing the entire hub. The guy does this with one hand (while holding the camera with the other). Normally, if you cannot turn the locker mechanism except with a pliers, it is just the locker part that is causing the problem.
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