i do feel your pain , this one sucks.
if not bad put a rag there with bailing wire and replace it ever 3-7k at oil changes, (engine)
the full blow up of the 3L30 is all over the internet. ( blow up is mech, drawings terms. for a blow up drawing) , or aka, and exploded view.. ) i had 6 years, drafting in school.so....
let it weep. ( i will find that very hard to find drawing and put in in my leaks section, tonight)
the suzuki drawings show no oring or seal there, so , is your vent tube on top pinched or blocked, it goes up the the behind dizzy area and has a little vent cap there, clean cap.
OVer filled tranny? do you have the OP guide? the guide page on fill check is on my page.
im told that some 180 based tranny;s had this seal.
How much more complicated would the 4l80 e be? And yes I am scared
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94 8v 1.6 2dr 5sp 2 in sr cust lift (canadian), 90 8v 1.6 2dr 5sp Japanese (with same lift) both spooled (in rear) and ready to rock--> check my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdw...w?feature=mhee
Mayhem, you said it was the shift lever, not the tail shaft. why post the tail shaft? it is not it. by your own word, (a photo of the leak helps the blind i hear)
they made 180 trannys from 73 on up
what tranny is in your car who knows.?
in fact if you tranny is a rebuilt, gee its 20 years old, huh
it might have any case in there...... even a USPS postal carrier case.? the main case might be 40 years old ? (the leak is in the MAIN)
only looking works. look and see what you have.?
write down all the tranny case numbers ??? then call the tranny parts?? man. (pressure wash the case and see all numbers. hint)
see suppliers on my page, and ask them for the part. (once the name part number and maker of part is found , then search by the exact P/N ) you will get lots of hits.
btw, i dont repair A/T, i just diagnose them and swap them.
save, the very limited on car fixes. shown on my page.
your scared over a weep, REALLY? what ?
look first. or post all the numbers... or?
the 3L30 is a modern version of the THM180 , a long evolution. the tail shaft housing varies by 2wd/ 4wd and other applications and the case stays same. (application specific tail)
fact 2 the suzuki EPC shows no seal. (why , i don't know) have you even looked to see if it has a seal, (id bet not)
there is the possiblity there is no seal, (no , ive not seen all 40 years of tranny case, not now , not ever)
but the case has evolved too, for 40 long years..... finding a true 180 expert,, try, AAMCO. they have shop full of them.
ask them. with full page of tranny numbers... (they will show you the wall sign, $600 consultation fees. ( i linger at lunch and ask the real mech. in the parking lot)
now send that to the tranny guy "makco" ask him the correct part.? like i said , at suzuki its not in the EPC. at all. so that means , buying pains. the endless story here, (i feel the pain)
you must realize if i say to you this seal fits and you try to put it in
and you destroy the old one coming out (takes skill just to get it out.
sure it can leak, you see a seal there, right?, and its not there for craps and grins.
well, clean it and drive a bit. a, and keep looking. start clean. ( this is classic, all cars, all machines... )
see what leaks and what dont'?
or get the UV die kit, and use that like everyone else..... (no joke most folks are too hurried to clean and drive, they are in a hurry so out comes the UV. cant blame em.....)
there are only 2 way, clean and look, and UV.
pick one..... id not guess. not me.
its not easy to change
and if you scratch the parts , it will leak for ever.
these comments apply to all seals
but this one is not easy.
id not lay a hand on it till 100% sure it leaks
then may still not....
you do know pulling that shaft is a no go.
so you must pull the seal with the shaft in place.
that is a beach, right, cuz its tiny.
you must not scratch the shaft or the case bore !
if you do , you made it worse. far worse.
when working on cars, i try to do this oath.
'firs,t do no harm"
throwing out a good $3000 tranny is not an option
a kotex planted there might work. (aka;field dressing)
or replace the 2 cent o-ring on the TV cable.
you do know the cable it self can leak right? (sides of cable)
some here would just pop in a new cable just on suppression. cant blame em.
they too, are a PITA to source. so ask.
its on my buy parts page.
lots of wind there. same with engine
never guess, find out were it leaks first
using clean and short drive tests
or UV, die key.
or you risk making it worse.
its only a weep,
I used the UV dye and LED light so now I can visibly see the fluid better. I felt up around the kick down cable and I felt fluid. It's crazy tight up there, hard to get a visual of anything in that area. I'm convinced now that it's not leaking where I thought it was leaking. The ATF leak is just making it's way down.
So, going to start with the kick down cable. Do you need to drop the tranny or no?
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