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Old 11-20-2012, 03:54 AM   #41 (permalink)
Bex
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You'll need to pull that bolt off to determine this properly, but it looks that way. If it is sheared, there is a great fix for it with Loctite, if the damage is not too bad. This type of damage normally occurs when the crank bolt has not been torqued to 94 ft/lbs (torque originally indicated too low in the FSM). The original fix for this as posted on this forum, comes from here:
Loctite Crank Fix - Part 1
Make sure that you torque the crank bolt properly when replacing it. Hopefully you do not find too much damage there.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:53 AM   #42 (permalink)
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pull the bolt
post a close photo
and ask for help,
damage can be tiny to horrible
only a photo and person with experience can help.
its all covered here.
ive done many... .btw..... the below is the work of many mechanics. it even as the suzuki part numbers for the parts, and price.

Repairing damaged crank and replacing seal. - Page 1 of 1
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:24 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I will post an upclose pic with the bolt removed as soon as im off work. I did remoce yhe bolt last night and you can feel the pin inside the keyway its almost flush with the front of the gear. I dont know if that helps? Ill be reading your tutorial shortly. Thanks yet again! Pics soon!
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:02 AM   #44 (permalink)
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if not too bad its easy to fix
key bad is no brain'er'
but the shaft must still be round.
the cog not wallowed out, inside
the back stop on the crank face must not be destroyd
the oil pump marks are harmless. (mostly)
there are 3 cogs, do not mix them. three generations of cogs
all pre 96 have 2part cog then got revised to a integrated cog washer
do not add a washer to the new cogs.
at the least.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:30 PM   #45 (permalink)
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So heres one with the bolt out... what y'all think?
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Any ideas? I'm thinking it looks ok. If y'all think different let me know and give me an idea of how to take it off the crank so I can realign it and replace the keyway. Thanks Again! If you need other pics let me know I have some more I can upload. This was the best one though.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:26 AM   #47 (permalink)
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We need a clear shot of the bare snout/key way, remove the COG...Philip
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:37 AM   #48 (permalink)
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x2
the full damage needs to be accessed, unless you want a repeat.
dont forget TDC, you need to get that back.
book ends..
the bad (some are so bad the threads in the crank bore are gone.


the good
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Any ideas on how to remove it without screwing it up too bad?
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:38 PM   #50 (permalink)
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stuck huh, (prayer and lots of PEN oil)
do it steering wheel style

put 3/8 socket that fits. there, say 14mm what ever fts
the a metal plate, drill 2 hole that span 2 , 6mm thread holes in the cog.
i use washer or what ever, to get the screw heads to hit the top of metal bar
then she comes off just like a steering wheel .

bah

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