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Old 11-15-2012, 09:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Idle Air Valve

I have a USA 1998 Sidekick Sport with 1.8 16 valve 4wd straight drive. The check engine light came on, and the ecm says the idle air valve is the problem. But the old kicker runs fine. I took the valve off and cleaned it and reset the ecm, but it comes back on within a week. I am at a loss?

Last edited by Rad73; 11-15-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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what DTC? code????? it controls idle speed and not cause of misfire or the like.
its just and air valve.
ok, that valve on right front Plenum front of EGR.
did you do the coil checks in the FSM?
same part as 1.8L esteem
18137-77e00
$192 on fleabay
and more here.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry, I don't know the exact code. I had a guy at advance auto use a scan tool. I don't have a factory service manual. It idles between 1200-900 rpms so I don't understand how it could be bad?
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Possibly P0505, which is IAC system malfunction, and is usually set if there is a wiring problem (open, short, etc.) You should check your wiring. A bit of a general explanation is here, as well as some pretty good solutions that you can try:
P0505 IAC (Idle Air Control) System Malfunction
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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that is because you dont know?
the idle is set to 800 and holds there hot, 1200 hot is fail
or that its used for other tasks running. (in the FSM the long details of that...)

just drive it. drive it till it dies. (pretend its a Toyota?) better yet on old cars,
Quote:
drive it like you stole it
, its cheap and expendable to many. (not me, but many)
better yet, remove the bulb , i dont need no stinkn puters.
joking aside....
the ECU will report is bad. for 2 reasons
1: it's bad (ISC) clean it , check the coil ohms, bad wires are rare here, one glance solves that, right? obvious damage at the connector,?
2: you have an air leak causing the idle controls to fail. (40 on my list for that, click bad idle.)

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Old 11-15-2012, 06:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I did wait for it to cool down once I got home today. I unplugged the Idle Air Valve and then started it. It idled at 800 rpms and then I plugged it back up and it went to 1200 rpms for a few seconds and then dropped to about 1000. I just hate that the light is on and I want to get the best gas mileage that I can. I hate that the part is so expensive. How do I check the coil on the valve?
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Check for air leaks in the air hose. With the IAC connected as it should be, pinch the air hose with a pliers. The idle should go down. If it doesn't, you have an air leak in the hose or the connection.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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not stating the acutal DTC codes is a fail for me... , makes this impossible.
the 1.8L has unique codes, too starting at P1xxx
so not stated the code, no way to guess.
not only that, mech will check for pending codes and other symptoms.
including engine heat up and rate of heat up. and all live data from the scan tool
to see if tall the sensors on the engine are in spec.
the 1.8 has some unique DCT to... btw.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Suzuki Sport (1.8) codes here, bottom of right hand column:
http://www.troublecodes.net/suzuki/
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i have them all, but he dont know his. Bex i have the 1.8L suzuki supplement do you?
Dig?
need codes, actual? not via some Autozoner.
and all symptoms
including ECT readings
and MAF
and LTFT
Closed loop status at idle and cruise.
so we can see if he has air leaks.

fixing a 1.8L blind is silly,why do that like in 1991. why?

if the lamp bugs you , electrical tape works wonders,( i dont but many do)
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