sure check wires, The laws of electrical are never repealed,.
these checks are real simple. it can only be,
1: electrical <<<<< BINGO the NOID FAILS stop and don't pass GO or collect $200
2: hydraulic. (fuel pressure loop system ,see my pump page for maps.)
3: bad injector. (open coil, leaking and flooding, clogged, whole or in part)
all 3 covered on my injector page.
what was your Injector ohms.? 1ohms is par, most cheap meter will not measure this accurately, (unless you know the ropes on that) can answer.
say no 0 ohms, (long Rx2 range) not 3 ohms. on Rx20 range)
so where are we?
Fuel pressure is at SPEC. (nice job , on of the only posts ever where the customer actually checked, Bravo !)
NOID test fails. !!
runs on test fuel,
tacho works (<sorry i forgot after 7 pages ! you are not the only no start post...so....)
no code 41s
TPS is 1vdc, and 100% GOOD.
The INPUTS to the ECU are now SATISFIED. (last is outputs) Like all computers or logic controllers of any kind.
Wires. i ring them all out. (after the visual at both ends) continuity (google that) and Insulation checks..
step 1, disconnect battery minus lug.
All tests using OHMS RANGE MODE.
it is just 2 wires. but will take you, at least 6 tests. (injector removed at 6 pin under hood)
continuity , end to end. x2 (expect,zero ohms or near) Rx2 range (short your meter leads so you can see how your meters presents a good continuity check)
measure from each wire to ground (infinity reading , or OPEN) R x 20k)(high range)
measure each wire to each other , (infinity) Rx20k
measure each wire to battery plus lug (infinity) Rx20k
last put the 6 pin connector back and measure B8 to b17 at ECU side connector with ECU disconnected. Rx2 range, 1 ohm. http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/injector-drivers.jpg
all this is tedious but saves $100 to $400 on a new ECU. so...... The FSM is clear. (stated in the first section on ecu)
do not replace the ECU if the inputs are bad, or the outputs shorted or open. (really true with every computer made, called GIGO)
seems logical to me...no?
keep in mind there are 50 years of meters, and you need to know yours, not all meters present , open and shorted in the exact same way. show your (photo) meter and answers get better. or just practice with yours. (if you do not understand your, ask for help, with brand, model number or, a photo)
post 1, it runs on test fuel..... so he has spark, the ECU sees there is spark, the tachometer shows there is spark and there is spark..
there it was... i looked 5 times and missed in in all that quoting with no quotes. TPS 1v. bad ecu,
finally after 8 pages....
he measured the TPS. (its perfect at 1v the DP holds it a tad up scale.) (new pump , an almost a new dashpot, )
caps split, or tiny lil valcanos on the side of Rubicons? they all fail, all Rubys and all dry out and all fail.. (only 1 exception the NOS ECU i had once)
course all i see are bad ECU (electronics), so im a tad ,jaded.
now that the ECU is top of list suspect.
off the lid now( i do this day one to all old cars) but off the lid, and see the green slime.
Public Enema #1 (a pun around a truth) 1000s have now failed. what say yours is now. (got carbon smoke under the lid? see burned up parts.?)
Two days ago I plugged in a PC my neighbor said I could have for whatever... upon plugging the power cord in... ssss (hiss sounds). Flip my panel power off, instantly smell that smell of a cap that has made its gas. May record the rest of it when I can get a camera, plug it in... and it is warm out. Cold front hit Tx (sure you are aware! WINDY).
Capacitors are a nightmare invention with pros and cons. But obviously not 5v on the TPS will cause no fuel, this is where a problem lies. I've been reading lots of weird, hopefully useful stuff... learning more and see myself needing to buy an oscilloscope to learn more than what I already know about circuits. Tired of crap breaking and having to recycle rather than fix and not buy. Hopefully this guy can take the advice given and find a fix for his car through all of this.
Two different readings, I believe, which shouldn't be confused. There is a 5 volt reference coming to all sensors from the ECU, which should be constant at all times. However, the actual TPS signal varies according to whether you are idling, through to WOT. At idle, the TPS signal can be as low as 0.5v, and if the TPS idle side is calibrated correctly, should stay below 0.7v when the throttle is closed. Depending on throttle position, the TPS signal can raise up to 5 volts at WOT. It varies, according to the throttle position.
should stay below 0.7v is dead wrong.... !!
you dont understand the ganged error nor the part tolerance part to part. nor the part fit tolerances
the biggest variances are the idle side to TP side offsets. Each TPS is different.
The idle side is calibrated and never the TP side, the TP side comes along for the RIDE.
on some, the pot can read 0 ohms on TP and be in spec. and 0v. see the page. on TPS calibration for that rule. it clearly stated. 0 to 2000 ohms is the range.
and 1v , iS A GO.
His ECU is dead. pending wire checks.
all the checks are on my page.
see 8 v wire, fail here. (any questions on wire, ask) Common-problems
See above, 'no 5v on TPS will cause no fuel'. Presumably that is referring to pin A - 5v reference from ECU. Pin B, is TPS signal, ranging from 0.5v at idle, throttle closed, to 5v at WOT. When throttle is closed it should be at the lower end of that spectrum. TPS signal - not calibration.
I can't rule out a clogged injector, so I took it out today and sent it Priority Mail to WitchHunter Performance. Kick pages recommend this shop and I like what I have read on their web site. They will have it by Thursday...hope to get it back by later next week. Now on to the ECU. XXX is stating that the ECU is bad. I'm taking it out and I'm going to pop that cover off...Need to SEE what is going on in there. If it has ruby cons I'm getting them removed and replacing the fuel injection resistors. Hopefully it is all repairable. ManDigital will be getting an email from me soon. The injector looks pretty good...seals ok. But I will leave the diagnosis up to the professionals in Washington to give me the final verdict on the injector. We wait and see. This will eliminate that mystery (#5) on the list that i quoted from XXX on my previous post. I believe the TPS is good...and so does XXX.
1.06 volts....good to go. I know how the TPS is supposed to work and I checked it like XXX said to get the 1.06v. I know it varies depending on other factors. This test was to see if it was signalling W.O.T. which cuts injection. It is not doing this...which is good. So hopefully tomorrow (wednesday) I get to pull the ECU and take a look...if it does not RAIN. Supposed to start raining Wed and thursday (again on Sunday)...thats here in L.A. So friday might be ECU pull day.
Ok...so on a side note I have to throw in this Mystery: I discovered under the DASH (passenger side) what appears to be a LOJACK. Can you believe it? I am calling LOJACK tomorrow and ask them if this car is in the System as having one. I thought it was an AMP or something like that (XM radio???)...but no...It is a small black box with another small black box (battery..that looks like it is old and might be leaking) and a long wire that is an antenna in a black sheath. I want this thing out of my Kick. I am also wanting to ask the original owner (Who lives up my street) if they bought this car in 1992 with the LOJACK. Because it sure does like like they did. Can a long out of Service LOJACK be causing this kick not to start??? I'm calling LOJACK first thing in the morning....Untill then...We investigate.
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