I also was reading the Kick pages and it said that after 100k ALL TPS fail. Well I have 103,xxx and I'm really starting to eye that TPS.
Check your TPS with proper diagnostics and don't assume. I have 183,000 miles on my car, and have never replaced the TPS. All TPS's do not fail at 100,000 miles - and even new ones need proper calibration.
Your noid test has failed?? Then logically you should be looking at your injector next.
and thousands more , saying they can die at 100k, and in fact do many times. ( bex ,this is the beginning of the bath tube curve for failures) understand that?
what your car does , i have no idea, at all.
Hmmm....I would expect someone who is actually selling TPS's to say that, no?? Of course, they also say this:
If you have over 100k miles and your engine is experiencing the above symptoms your TPS sensor could be the culprit.
In any event, to the best of my recollection, most posters here do have over 100,000 miles on their car, and TPS replacement has not been such a common occurrence. Presumably 'if' you have the symptoms and 'if' your TPS has never been replaced and 'if' calibration and testing proves that the TPS is faulty, then certainly replace it. However, the poster's comment is this:
reading the Kick pages and it said that after 100k ALL TPS fail.
As he states he now has 103K, and assumes that ALL TPS's fail after 100k, this just might be a bit misleading.....
every thing, made by man, has a design life.
1 to 5 million cycles. some PWM's do 10mil. deal with it.
that page you have is old,
This is very common , this failure of the TPS. after 100k miles many TPS can fail on any car, and depends, on utility, be that, city ,highway or mix, when that happens.
It it rare for any TPS to last the life of the engine. (about 300k)
if you need design life data on any part, just ask,,,?,, we did this at Philips Semiconductors for many years,
All our parts are(were) life tested. but i guess you know little about that...
bex, moving variable resistors don't last forever,,,,, sorry to burst your bubble. (nor does it have magic, mile counter inside)
the OP, has a dead ECU, with a dead NOID . (he went to far with the pressure test.. but... I only wanted him to do the 3 ECU test.. nothing more...)
the pressures test is part of the list, after a GOOD NOID test.
all I was asking was for a 5 min test on PIN B, nothing more or less. or the speculation on TPS life,
Hmmm....my point is that posters who have not worked at Philips Semiconductors, etc., do not understand that you are making a general statement - most everything has designed obsolence - no bubble bursting here. But when it is stated that 'all TPS's fail after 100,000', while true, it infers that if I have 101,000 miles on my car, I better get a new TPS, because it is failing. Which, I believe, is exactly how the poster interpreted the statement. A TPS may last until 200,000 miles or more. There is no magic line that is crossed over at 100,000.
checked the TPS. no volts at all. disconnected the ground cable from the battery and checked the resistance of the in fuel injector...it is at.2 ohms. Out of range from the .8 to 1.8 that the fsm states..but still could be good?. noid test has failed already before.
I'm pulling the ecm...i want to see what is under that top. i want to see what it looks like in there. I plan to keep this vehicle and kick pages states that fixing those caps and transistor's ids one of the best things you can do for these vechicles. I'm on the right path...any thoughts ...
How exactly did you check the TPS for voltage? With the throttle closed, it should read less than 0.70 volts. Presumably if the ECU is not getting any voltage at all from the TPS, it would be throwing a code 22. Your fuel pressure is good. You can start with test fuel. Your noid test has failed (?). Have you visually looked at the injector to see if there is fuel spray when cranking? Listened to the injector with a hose or stethoscope to hear it clicking when cranking? If no spray/clicking, have you disconnected the injector connector and checked for resistance of 0.8-1.8 ohms? If yes, then with the ignition turned off, and the injector reconnected, disconnect the green #17 pin and check for ohms between the #17 and #8 pin on the green ECU connector (top and bottom left most pins) for 0.8-1.8 ohms. If you don't get that ohm reading, you have a short in the red wire, or the red wire or yellow wire to the injector is open. Or your connections aren't good.
Your car may be very hard to start with a bad/misadjusted TPS, but it will eventually start.
I checked the tps with the battery connected and pulled the tps connector. With key on i read no volts from the gray pin (harness side) which should be 2 to 4 volts (right?). I read nothing. No code 22...checked that before. I get 12 every time. My noid test failed. Have not visually checked the injector. XXX has said to do that before. I will pull the horn and see. With the battery disconnected per the FSM I checked the resistance of the injector and it read .2 ohms.
mmm.what to do:
1) Visually look down the horn and "SEE" and "HEAR" the injector.
2) Pull the ECM and visually look inside...
3) Drop $$$ and replace the Injector and TPS and see what happens.
4) I don't think I have shorts in my wires...But I can check.
Any thoughts...Did those injector resistors go bad on my ECM? And the capacitors?
I am going to go over the testing of the tps again...i'm reading the kick pages and I may not be doing it correctly. Going to HB to get a mighty vacumn and retest the tps following exactly what i read on the kick pages...
I believe that the TPS signal (the gray pin) is 0.5v at idle to 5v at wide open throttle. If the TPS signal was dead, I would imagine that the ECU would throw a code for this. Considering your noid test failed, I would concentrate on the injector - listening for it clicking with a hose or stethoscope while you are cranking. I have not heard of the injector drivers going bad on these ECU's without a wiring/short problem to blow them. As you have not really checked the wiring to the injector, or the injector itself, despite the failure of the noid test, I think you need to do this, rather than concentrating on the TPS at this point, particularly as it appears that your car is starting (and idling) as long as you are feeding it fuel. IHMO.
Sunday I will pull the air horn and look and down and SEE and HEAR if anything is going on. I want to visually SEE this (or lack of anything going on). I will also check the wiring. I picked up a mighty van from HB to further check the TPS (later). I also picked up some better Phillips' screwdrivers to remove the ECM. XXX: you are right...those screws must have been torqued in...cant believe how tight. I will change the bolts to a hex bolt like you stated. We will see...another sunday full of wrenching...
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