Again thanks for the response. I will keep you guys informed as to what happens next week (after the holidays since i will be out of town). I cant wait to get back to diagnoising this kick. XXX: I will re-read you latest responses and get my results back As quick as possible. Until then, everyone have a great ThanksGiving vacation (time off, dinner or whatever!).
no hurry , retired folks have almost forever.....
but yes, the wires do count...and them pesky pins.
to me that goes with out saying
i look i see any dead actuator.
what pops on to my mind, (spending $200 ) no.
i check the wires. not in the trunk but those wires, then one operating the device.
amazes me that anyone would not think that way. sorry if im wrong, but ? am i?
Hope you all had a great holiday and that you are doing well... So, I'm back on the sidekick. Today I was only able to back probe the Injector with the noid light...still no light...nothing. I made sure that my lisle universal light was woriking and making the connection. It was. I back probed it with all connectors connected. I did pull back those black rubber seals on the two wires and was able to make a connection. So tomorrow I will check the fuel pressure. XXX: I am concerned about the WOT coming from the TPS. I re-read my entire post could you please give me a link to the section on the kick fix pages to check it. I keep reading the check for voltage ob the TP pin (wiper pin...what is this?) I want to make sure i am checking this rightFYI: I finally have my FSM (Yayyy!). I want to check the TSP. I remember you stating that the WOT will cut injection.
Thanks for your input and staying with me...I greatly appreciate all help.
the noid failure shows a dead ECU, and not to run afoul of bex wire checks
the wires must be good, from the ECU to the injector.
not open, not grounding out. or not crossed, (true for every electric connection on earth, but there, I said it , and that includes both connectors
your already saw the business end, is good, now the ecu end, must be too.
id even put the noid across the ECU 2 pins (Bex had her's ground out, , a very rare event , usually gross engine swap damage caused harness /conn damage.)
the pin is called Official by Suz, the TP pin, for throttle Position. (a good name)
it todays jargon its throttle angle pin
but more accurately its the POT WIPER (tech talk) PIN B. (it's a Rheostat Potentiometer) Throttle angle 0-100% varies from about 1v to 4v (wot i think begins at 3.5v)
a rule of thumb here is 2v, (keep in mind the huge variance from one TPS to another, 3500 ohms to 6500 , wide variance.
your not getting code 41 or 42 so the spark is good.
that leaves this.
leaving it connected, back probe pin B, key on, not cranking.
most be not over 3.5v (75%throttle is the universal guidelines for wot)
BUT what voltage , some cars to to 4 more fully WOT 100% ( id do not know the exact threshold. ,it's in software of ecu)
only the harness colors count , the TPS can be made by many different
companies and their colors vary, just like O2 sensors
so the gray wire is harness side.
keep in mind if you like 3 v there, you can ground that pin, (spec says at idle this pin can be 0 ohms to ground pin, so if you saw a odd voltage there
say 3v, ground it and crank motor, got injection now>? good. you found the problem. I wish i had the exact TP cut fuel voltage. but i dont need it because of my grounding trick.
i try to no ever guess or use list of fails to guide me
i use my scope. it's my guiding light...(dmm as the ready)
but let me tell you, one guy had a shorted inside tachometer (A1 short)
an that kills injection. (the tach needle was stuck at 0)
and the ecu saw no spark and cut fuel,
but runs on test fuel great.
code 41 set.
not yours, doing that but im showing the way to avoid $400 spare ecu swaps.
that would not be good.
"I made sure that my lisle universal light was woriking and making the connection. It was. I back probed it with all connectors connected. I did pull back those black rubber seals on the two wires and was able to make a connection."
Mike, PLEASE make sure to double check your light ground source back to the battery as this has caused many a deceptive analysis (due to poor ground connection). Sorry to post if already confirmed. Good luck
1997 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1989 Ford E-250, van, 5.0 (302), 4 spd auto
1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto
Last edited by ranger88den; 11-27-2012 at 03:52 PM.
his is 8v
and the noid runs TRANSvers to 2 injectors drivers. (no ground at all) see my noid page, just for 8v.
the ecu makes that ground connection with a transistor, and if power is bad, it's dead, no CEL.
the ecu can be bench tested.
look MA, no car, no battery no body. and it injects
this looks complex but is not
only need 3 conditions !
1: power CEL glows, proof of power, (but do meter the pins all pins marked power and ground)
2: TPS at 0v TP pin B.
3: CMP sig is the drummer boy
5: spark feed back, i fooled mine here. bingo injection
no stinking car bodies, they just rust anyways (the LED across my injector simulator is flashing if you look close.) see most the ECU wires pointing to the sky?
had my MS running the next day, on a table.
Just remember, do NOT hotwire the injector in order to check it. You can also check wiring continuity from the ECU connector back to the injector. The injector works off the green connector, the red and yellow wire (top left and bottom left pins as you are looking at the ECU connector). At key on, these pins should have less than 0.5v. In my case, I had a short in the wiring, which blew out the driver in the ECU itself. Rather than finding the short, I just ran new wiring.
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