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Old 11-12-2012, 04:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default AC Problem - Help Please

I am having two issues with the AC System on the 1994 Sidekick that I just purchased. The fan switch only comes on in the high position and the AC does not blow cold air.

Is the fan switch available and easy to replace and any ideas on why the AC is not blowing cold air? Any and all input and ideas are greatly appreciated!
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Could be the blower resistor I think it's located near the glovebox, regarding the ac could be low on charge or leak somewhere best to get a shop with proper equipment to look at it.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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X2 or fan switch. On the cooling, you'll have to put a gauge set on the system to check the charge and diagnosis.

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...epairable.html
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you have 2 failures and are NOT related, as posts suggests. the fan-switch or resistor block is bad , just looking at the block, with eyes, can see of the naked coils are burned up, if not,? the switch is bad, speeds bad... is SOP fix and is my heater page.
the A/C always works on high,

Quote:
the fans switch blows air on high
so that sends 12vd to the A/c switch does it glow.?
if it glows, then it sends 12v to the next part.
why is this hard?
air-conditioner-repair
DO NOT BE TEMPTED by the DARK side to force the A/C clutch. do not.
ask how and the correct order to proceed.



the schematic is clear, see that 12v leaving the a/c switch (own a volt meter?)
see that lamp?
it can be burned out so check BLUE wire on the Amplifier . it will have 12dc on high. i bet. (it did new)
this AMP is a logic box , so you dont burn up the Compressor. see? do not
try to fool it. (fooling the over heat is ok ,if engine is not overheated , ok?)

fuses good, no brainer there.. huh.?
the next step is the clutch do you have 12vdc to it.
if you do the compressor is spinning, is it?
if not ask for help. do not bypass the clutch or the dual pressure switch
or doom awaits you.... i promise...
if the over heat switch is bad, do by pass it.
if the Hi/lo switch is open then fill the system to spec , Freon.
when that is done, then the switch closes, and the system comes on line.
ask for help.

first the electrical must work then the loop, im the guy on the Elect. side. the loop side is 100x more complex. laws and pitfalls. "ozone depletion, etc"

Last edited by xxx; 11-13-2012 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like MY air:

The blowing problem is the switch, and there's a penny fix (actually wedging pennies somewhere in there) that corrects it. Mine only blows on the two highest settings, but I never cared about fixing it because in South Florida, I'm only going to want to use my AC on the two highest settings anyway.

And mine doesn't blow cold because there's a leak in the firewall that you just can't get to without ripping everything apart. I hope yours is more easily fixable.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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get the Freon switch closed first. (it opens for too low pressure and too high)
it the pressure in spec. then we can get the clutch to close.
do not run it dry or all the parts become, dust in the wind....
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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non usa comment, i get emails... asking...
others reading think their non usa/canada car are the same.
post your cars , fire wall VIN tag, or the last digits of the chassis number
are the country code, EG E02 or 02 is UK
usa is 33 and 03
canada is 28
post your marked code and A/C answer get better

some have the Amp that uses no Hi/lo switch. at all.
case in point, se416-3, santana made, with no switch.
then i look at vitara Mygar made 1995, and has this switch
post full tag for full facts.
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