91 tracker, no spark, horrible compression. (less than my oldest lawn mower)
x2 , but you do have 2 or more failures,
in tech school the first words out of the instructors lips are.
Dont make measurement errors.
if you do , all the next steps are wasted, (check your work)
i linked you to the 7 steps.. no more needs to be done there.
No spark, see my no spark page.
91 , (ill assume the CEL can at least glow) i not ,work that first (after compression)
diagnostic jumper in place (next to battery)
key on no start. , the CEL lamp in the dash flashes, 12s...
if not?, move the useless, NAG switch (i showed you a photo of it)
to the other position. now it flashes, 12s... it must or ECU is toast.
of course the IG fuse is good, and the FI fuse is good. if not ECU will be dead.
bottom left and right here.
we have power to the ECU, raise the flag !
next , with key on , and flashing 12s.
you crank for 10sec, 5-10 .
release the key.
turn off the key !
do you see 41s or 42.?
the cmp is the heart beat of the engine. its located in the dizzy base.
it never fails, (cept unplugged or wires mangled to it).
but if it is bad the ECU warns you now.
see that error here..... 42
the CMP is here.
introducing the CMP. (off the no spark page)
the CMP is that twinkie in the upper 2 pm area.
its called a HALL sensor. they are robust to the extreme. (like a ROCK)
IGNITION slide show. - Image 16 of 28
when he dies, the ECU screams bloody murder, 42, 42s.
but you need to crank for 5 to 10 seconds, so the ECU can be SURE
it's bad, see?
read the instructions with your compressing gauge,
and there is a bleed off button on the gage.
and if you fail to bleed it off, each check , the next checks are wrong.
back to compression pressure.
if some one dropped the compression gauge, they can be bad.
connect the gauge to shop air 150psi, or more.
does this suspect gauge, match the compressor gauge? no , then the answer is
you are still at step 1 , is my engine good or bad.....
make it snappy retired folks are impatient ( joking)