91 tracker no spark or fuel

[xxx]

90 psi, A HARD FAIL, wide open throttle? did you read my compression page for proper
methods.? 90 if real? means the crank and cam are no longer timed correctly (belt slip or other lil horror)
is it real. ? dont feel bad if done wrong.
about 1/2 here do it wrong first time. so is par for course. did you gauge come with instructions,?
7 steps , the extra steps are for safety...

How to do compression test?

spark plugs out, full battery, block the throttle open. crank until the meter
peaks, (nut shell)


the coil,??? does the high voltage tower terminal, make spark?
put a HV wire and spark plug to the tower terminal and test the spark
at the this location , for spark. this is a very important tests
steel a spark wire from #1 and put it directly to the coil
then add a fresh sparkplug (not some old POS) and then ground the spark
plug shell to the body or engine metal. this proves spark is good.
there is no other way.
this proves out the ECU. and CMP. ,and ignitor and coil all at once.
keep in mind , i cant see you work or see car.
so you need to do the tests correctly, do ask questions.

cheers.

ill let Bex hound you on the CEL, as she should and always , does well .
revised with noob , comments.
http://kickfix.ac-vw.com/CEL/cel-index.html

[ROSE BUD]

well i fell into that 1/2 that do it wrong the first time. lol i am going to have to back up and do it right this time.


the HV tower terminal does NOT make spark. I did try using a new plug wire and a new plug grounded to several differrent places.


CMP? what and where is this part?

[Bex]

Right now, instead I will hound you to do the compression test properly. Nothing else matters in all of the 6 pages here, if your compression is truly at 90psi across all cylinders.
Compression test is easy - as xxx says, all spark plugs out, remove the F1 fuse to stop fuel injection. Compression gauge into cylinder #1 - have helper crank the engine with the gas pedal to the floor, cranking until the compression gauge peaks (about 5 cranks or so). Write down your reading and go on to the next cylinder. You are shooting for 170psi on all cylinders. Do that and post your results. Probably before doing anything else.

[xxx]

91 tracker, no spark, horrible compression. (less than my oldest lawn mower)

x2 , but you do have 2 or more failures,
in tech school the first words out of the instructors lips are.
Dont make measurement errors.
if you do , all the next steps are wasted, (check your work)
i linked you to the 7 steps.. no more needs to be done there.

No spark, see my no spark page.
91 , (ill assume the CEL can at least glow) i not ,work that first (after compression)
diagnostic jumper in place (next to battery)
key on no start. , the CEL lamp in the dash flashes, 12s...
if not?, move the useless, NAG switch (i showed you a photo of it)
to the other position. now it flashes, 12s... it must or ECU is toast.
of course the IG fuse is good, and the FI fuse is good. if not ECU will be dead.
bottom left and right here.
http://kickfix.ac-vw.com/power-elect...eft-knee1w.jpg
we have power to the ECU, raise the flag !

next , with key on , and flashing 12s.
you crank for 10sec, 5-10 .
release the key.
do not turn off the key !
do you see 41s or 42.?
the cmp is the heart beat of the engine. its located in the dizzy base.
it never fails, (cept unplugged or wires mangled to it).
but if it is bad the ECU warns you now.
see that error here..... 42
the CMP is here.
introducing the CMP. (off the no spark page)

the CMP is that twinkie in the upper 2 pm area.
its called a HALL sensor. they are robust to the extreme. (like a ROCK)
IGNITION slide show. - Image 16 of 28

when he dies, the ECU screams bloody murder, 42, 42s.
but you need to crank for 5 to 10 seconds, so the ECU can be SURE
it's bad, see?

read the instructions with your compressing gauge,
and there is a bleed off button on the gage.
and if you fail to bleed it off, each check , the next checks are wrong.

back to compression pressure.
if some one dropped the compression gauge, they can be bad.
connect the gauge to shop air 150psi, or more.
does this suspect gauge, match the compressor gauge? no , then the answer is
obvious.

happy kicking....

you are still at step 1 , is my engine good or bad.....
make it snappy retired folks are impatient ( joking)

[ROSE BUD]

Ok. i am back at work now. i will post my new readings ASAP

[xxx]

no hurry, ever... just listed the pit falls.... many there are
and not using real gauges, is top of list.

[Bex]

Similar issue here:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ease-help.html
Low compression on all cylinders. Its a wonder what timing the timing belt properly can do.....If you get your 90psi across all cylinders, the timing belt has probably been timed incorrectly.

[ROSE BUD]

ok..... this is probably going to be a dumb question, but here it goes.

even though i done the compression test wrong, i am thinking the timing is way off just from some other signs before it died on me.

ok now my question. how will the timing being of cause the fuel pump to not come on when you turn the key on?

[xxx]

how will the timing (cam or ignition or both) being off cause the fuel pump, to not come on, when you turn the key on?
huh?

it cant.
the ECU runs the pump for 3 seconds each key on. no mater, sun , wind or whole engine at aunt Janes.

the ECU closes the relay for 3 seconds. the relay then sends about 6amps at 12vdc to the pump. it it dont make it all the way to the pump and pump ground, the pump just sits there dead.

the ECU is programmed to do that for crash and burn safety.
having the pump on full time is really crazy.... unless you like fires.

the injector gets 1 air purge pulse too, at key on , but no fuel flows. this is called the purge. or prime. you cant get past pump fail so... is not important yet.

[aquanaut20]

Because the pump does not prime with key on, the ECU must see ignition pulse first.... Philip