runs rough only when cold.

[rapoM]

thanks!! ok so were down to 3 possibility's then, pcv, isc iac. on the pcv valve, i might as well just replace it anyway as its a normally replaced item., my only worries is that the hose thats clamped to the top of it is very very hard. like plastic. and looks a bit rare. im afraid it will slpit apart when i pull the nipple off of the pcv valve, or press it onto the new one. so with this said i think il leave that one for last. well now ive started my 6 day work week again.. so tonight wont work but maybe tomorrow il tackle the isc and iac., now testing those 2 guys, did you say to test them both at the same time.? and i have some claybar i think will work for plugging. just hope it doesn't get sucked in lol. opon removing these items are there gaskets involved that may need replaced? O rings? and you said a million times that these map sensors are bullet proof.. so im going to end it with the map sensor. tonight im going to study ur pages and links. so just to say one or both are bad? what means do i have to fix/replace them? im sure parts stores dont carry them, or there 300$.. and no salvage yards withen 50 miles of me have any 89-90 kicks/tracks., and by the way i live in the states (Illinois) and my vin starts with a 2.

[PARKRAT]

You can block your isc or just cut the wire, if your afraid the pcv will slpit apart when you pull the nipple off of the pcv valve, or press it onto the new one, hit it with some black tape, leave the iac for last.

[xxx]

the car will run with a packed up PCV valve, (oil leaks spring out)
if cracked it sucks in dirt. THE PCV is not it. unless the valve it self is split in half.
fast idle is easy to find.

1: close the idle stop, screw, (see air gap it closed)
2: Dash pot not active (look)
3: block isc, , still race now. not isc or ecu influenced.
4:block the IAC with clah.
1,2,3,4 do so sequential , stopping up each normal path,you do..
if it still races?, you have an intake manifold leak, for sure.

racing means over 800 rpm hot,

yes clay i use, but be creative, rolled up duct tap wad, what ever works
i have box of small rubber corks, and vast numbers of vacuum line caps.
yes, add them up. ( do you want to know why its leaks ? only testing finds that)
not $1000 in parts, it can be something dump, like the P/S over load wire grounded out. find the cause then fix that. guessing rarely works on old cars.

close the throttle plate, 100% , you can view it with a flash light, sure can..
100% , you said it races closed, that is a hard fail.
so, leave it closed
and pack the ISC closed, make it so the path is BLOCKED, its just a simple air valve. (leave it like that packed, then...)
last pack up the IAC.
at the end, all sources of air are gone and plugged, etc. ( a goal)
or if the idle goes to 400 or zero.(stalls) which ever happens first?

make your own gaskets. Napa sells the raw supplies.

that gasket will be destroyed after a 20 long year, planted and cooked.
sure will, but luck happens.

i guess you never called suzuki before?, and asked for a part.?
they have them and no , this car most parts are not sold. (after market new)
(EFI parts?)
like custom fit hoses. as you mentioned.
i can get the numbers and we can look them up for available. (ok i did)
yes, find one bad MAP in 4 years here, lots changed, not one proven bad.
its very rugged, it is. last one was broken down the back side, so can blame it or
that. its easy to test with any voltmeter and a hand tool ,easy and proof of working corrctly.
the o-rings can fail at anytime, all those can be had. there are sources.
good a real code 2 Canada car. from Cami ,not japan. good.
this car is old. you wont find throttle bodies in Autozone.

we can find used parts here, and at car-parts.com and ebay and craigs.
i bought whole assemblies cheaper like a whole induction system.
but if the wrecker removes 1 part its like gold to them. oddly.
there are no parts on this car that are optional , under hood.
sure a noisey ISC can be ignored.
or as some do block paths for ever. in the TB.
how you fix any car is you call, hack, fix, new,,used, rebuilt. or ?
each has a cost and down time.
one guy here, had a leak (fast idle post of 1000s)and after 50 posts the photo of a cracked in half EGR
popped up.
remember we are blind here, cant see the obvious;at all. not ever.
no photos.

it's pretty much for sure after 20 years, all gaskets are bad and 0-rings
or just waiting to crack , at the slightest touch. all cars.
it's called atrophy.
one company still sells the body gasket kit, SMP does.
suzuki does. but not the center piece.
the key parts are
the injector, there is a great injector cleaner service for $20 and comes with
the vary hard to find or-ings. witchunter.com (rockauto has thees rings too)

ISc bad, is expensive, find one on fleabay
TPS bad, good luck finding good used one. hard. and are like $200
but all parts are scrounge-able.
Fpreg is easy. sold all over.
have you ever looked at rockauto.com?
have you looked there under Air/fuel.

$192 ISC. (tb right side , 2 wires) (i bet your's is good, if not jammed or open coil)
fixing cars is easy finding parts , no so..... (not fast)

the hoses near the TB. are very hard to source ,read the TSBs for 89/90
and the revised them many times.
but the 90 had 2 PCV hose sets one a Y mold and one with metal Tee pipe
i looked those 2 hoses at suzuki now, and both show up. and are $23 or one and $6 the other, then the IAC 3 screw gasket
that one is $5 pn 13442-61A00 ,
so they have the parts. at suzuki, only it takes 3 extra days to get them.

ok , time to sleep.

http://www.oemsuzukiparts.com/parts/...&siteid=214330

[rapoM]

i was reading about cutting the wire in one of xxx's posts, i believe the other wire controls the fuel injector? so what wire do i cut? and what am i looking for to either say the unit is good or bad? id rather cut a wire than disturb a gasket.

and you said this "good a real code 2 Canada car. from Cami ,not japan. good.
this car is old." its a 90? lol im confused... is the 2 code better/rare? whats cami?

[xxx]

the wire is a pair and is the 2 isc wires.
cut either one. and that only proves the valve closed, if idle drops.
it does not prove stuck open. which is your symptoms.
i cant fix cars with out any gaskets, its impossible. (i can make them)
all cars this old have iSC issues.. (leaks, or gummy stuck or noise)
if you unplug the connector this kills the TPS dead.
and if you do that , you kill the idle switch an that kills all idle controls.
you are tying the opposite effect. working idle controls.

have you even measured the ISC coil ohms yet? 6 ohms IIRC.
unplug it and measure the coil, its just a coil solenoid.
if its open , i think idle goes to 400 rpm.
not fast. but some can fail 2 ways, burned up and stuck open.
so fate always wins, every time... i can only replace the bad...

[PARKRAT]

Im buying a nissan, this is iq2, f this shit.

[xxx]

its not a debate, pack, it's just physics, what is bad is FATE not a de-bate, and the correction can be expensive if not willing or wanting to wait for used parts. and the reality of bad used parts...etc .,etc.
It takes hard work to solve some problems. (all high idles can be found, that is a fact)
OP
wish i could do it for you as a neighbor, and $1 of gasket paper,
at the least we could find the truth. fast, in less than 1 hour, for sure. (not fixed, found, fixing takes parts)
and then find that part, somewhere, used. ?

there are many posts, here with 89/90 that they modified these parts.
so it can run . but are pain after the hacks, on cold mornings.
for example you pack the IAC up with say RTV. then on a cold day it likes to stall
and you must attend it with a happy right foot, until far warmer.
Cases in point, (i do like the stories, "jury rigs" "drama"
one guy , over 2 years ago,. added a water faucet to the dash and
to the IAC port. (welded a nipple to the cap)

then he gets in his Kick turns the valve open just a tad. and starts car
and fiddles this knob for smooth idle. ( a human IAC)
lots of ways to skin a cat.?

(a tech guy would make a processor and build a stand alone, idle controller)
with this and a themistor and so code, bingo, custom idle. (using all used parts, can do)
Standard Motor Idle Air Control (IAC) Valves AC170 - SummitRacing.com

for you a revised page.... you motivated me..
http://kickfix.ac-vw.com/IDLE-AIR/Ba....html#8v_logic


89/90s (hack 3, of many, hacks are like endless but all fun to hear)
one guy (this forum) got INSIDE his bad IAC, see that valve seat?, see that ring? see those notices. he got it to spin and is threaded and turned it down till the IAC closed HOT.
he did that, not me but the IAC was not too good cold. as expected.
we think there is a factory tool to do that ,at TB makers.
there are only so many things you do do with a bad IAC, and after 20 years they all will be going bad soon. they only last this long... the wax inside, just goes bad.
just like they do, in the thermostat.
see thise titty ring?
http://kickfix.ac-vw.com/fresh-air/S.../image_10.html

[xxx]

the wire cut , logic.........??????

yes, you cut it and the rpm drops to 400 rpm,
then the ECu must be driving it to 1200.
we then investigate why ECU is overdriving it. (lots of ways)
the ISC can mess up all these ways:
1:The bad, stuck open, or closed, sticking , jamming or?
2: coil open. not 6 ohms.
4: ECU is nuts. (not so rare, huh?)
5: ECU driving it on purpose, Fast idle is ENABLED (inputs to ECU)
6: ECU stuck in limphome. idle is now random.
7: I removef the ISC, oops the base gasket was cracked where i could not see.

the IAC, fails to close in a pan of 150F water (mine does)
that be a no brainer, huh. its bad, find a different one, ask for help, get it.

always assume your car (abused) has more that one failure
and mixed failures cause odd symptoms, ask for help.

[rapoM]

ok... not sure if im doing anything right.. but what i juist did was remove the plate with the 3 screws pointing at the front of the car.. there is a steel ring and a black nipple in the center, and a hole (port) in the side this is what i did.



then made a perfect gasket and put the cap back on over the vac nipple, i drove a needle into the nipple so it wouldnt get sucked in., but the needle is not making an air leak.. its outside the hole.. SOO... please tell me i did this way wrong., here is what happened. after i was done i started the engine, (cold by now) it idled at 1200 instantly, engine very cold., i let it warm up. to hot... rpm's were at 1250. wtf? i could not find my motha junkin clay either! but that vac nip was a very tight squeeze.. (thats what she said?)

oh btw.. i CAN NOT find the iac valve, or atleast anything that unbolts???????

[rapoM]

OK OK OK!!!! i found that dirty little hore!!!!! iac valve!! yeah if it was a snake... lol anyway i tester the motor thingy. i get a loud click with 12vdc. it looks clean inside too. sparayed carb cleaner in both the motor and the holes in the tb and no gunk came out, just clean tb cleaner spray.. so then i taped the holes and started it up. (warm) not hot. and it just blatantly will not hold an idle even for a Milli second. i can hold it at 750 with my foot, as soon as i let off it dumps down and dies... then i observed the RUBBER gasket it has....



i believe this thing is donezo! and it looks like a bear to try and make one... being that it has elevation in the center part. il try anyway. so seeing that the valve functions properly, holes are clear. this gasket looks like a piece of chewed up spit out piece of cow manure... brits like to chew that stuff. so making a new gasket now. i can't wait to RAISE my idle via the idle screw!!!!!!!!