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Old 08-24-2012, 02:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default need help 1.6 8v valve adjustment

so i searched all over and mostly found the 16v threads, not much on the 8v, which is what i have. 8v. i have alot alot alot of lifter type noise after my exhaust leaks are fixed i can really hear the upper end, pretty loud... even my exhaust guy made a comment. im pretty good with fixing things. but valve lash is really something that needs to be perfect. can anyone give me very detailed instructions for dummies? if someone can do this then it will be the only thread on the 8v on this site... the one i found was confusing. anyone have a step by step? are the cylinders in order 1,2,3,4 with 1 being by the radiator and 4 being by the firewall? can't you just put a straw down cyl 1 spark plug hole till its at the top, or could this be the wrong stroke? see im confused. + i have to find my feeler gauges... also i read .006 for I and .008 for E right?
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapoM View Post
also i read .006 for I and .008 for E right?
What does that mean? AFAIK, the 'I' is the 'fake' mark on the cam pulley, and the 'E' is the one that you use for our cars. Basic valve lash should be at .006" for all valves. The #1 cylinder is by the radiator, #4 by the firewall.
Instructions here:
8 valve lash setting
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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my I and E just means intake and exhaust., so you say .006 for both? ive read .006 and .008 for exhaust. which is it? lol and that link is VERY HELPFULL thank you!!! only thing that confused my was the very last part about lash clearance. those are very specific numbers and i dont think i could find feeler gauges to match.
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nightshade tails + more..
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sooo... i adjusted the valves per that very awesome write up.(.006 for intake AND exhaust) and like my upper end was very noisy before hoping it was lash. soooo i checked current lash just out of curiosity, all but #1 intake i could squeeze the .014 feeler gauge into!!!! #1 intake was at .012. i checked 4 at a time at proper tdc rotor pointing at #1, crank at o* then adjusted them. one thing that bothered me tho.. after you found a good friction point on the feeler gauge, then you tighten the nut with the feeler gauge still in place (right?!) it would always loosen up after the nut was tightened.. that made no sense to me i figure if anything it would tighten the screw becuse the nut turns on the screw CW. but it loosens them slightly.. so i had to over tighten innitally, and then tighten the nut completely, THEN check for proper friction., and redo it several times till they were perfect. can't wait to fire it up and bend all of the valves!!!!! YAY!!!! oh btw when i removed the valve cover, someone wrote on the cam blocks .006 intake and .011 exhaust!!!!!! ?!
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calmini 2'' lift. 2'' suspension block kit
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calmini cold air intake
pace setter header
nightshade tails + more..

Last edited by rapoM; 08-24-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Never know what a p/o did.
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapoM View Post
oh btw when i removed the valve cover, someone wrote on the cam blocks .006 intake and .011 exhaust!!!!!! ?!
There are different values if you are doing this on a cold or a hot engine. On a cold engine, its .006" on all. On a hot engine .011" would be the values. I think your PO got confused.
Good luck and let us know how its running now.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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WOW! well i started it up this morning and omfg. its sooooooooo quiet! i wish could have heard the valves over the leaky exhaust sooner... hope i didn't hurt anything driving it like that... sounded like a sewing machine sewing 2 pieces of sheet metal together! now its silent like a brand new car!!! thanks everyone!, especially Bex for that awesome write up! i just wanted to get back on here before i actually drove the thing make sure noone chimmed in about the last specs last minute., one thing i wish i was more patient and let it cool off 100% before i did the job.. it was warm but not hot in any way. i let it sit for about 2-3 hours before doing it to cold specs. now time to drive it!! so if they were all at .014 and i set them to .006... thats a gain of .008... thats a mild cam difference lol
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pace setter header
nightshade tails + more..
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I didn't write the write up - just linked it. It's from the Kick fix site.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Vitara 1998 1.6 8v

Hi guys! Loved the thread found it very interesting and helpful. However I'm a little confused..I'm still not sure what I should set my valve tappet clearance at.
The spec I have is the following
Intake (Cold) 0.13-0.17mm
Exhaust (Cold) 0.15-0.19mm

Intake (Hot) 0.23-0.27mm
Exhaust (Hot) 0.25-0.29mm

What I don't understand is why are the clearances for a hot engine larger than cold. Surely the clearance needs to be the largest when cold to allow for the expansion when the engine is hot???

Now I've heard a clearance of 0.06mm being mentioned!?...I would like to set my clearances the tightest and the smallest as possible so my engine is as quiet as possible so I'm liking the sound of 0.06...However isn't this to low of a setting for my 1.6 8v engine?

I'll very much look forward to your input and answers guys..my appreciated!

Webby Out
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hail to the King.....and don't confuse inches with millimeters!!! It's .006 INCHES, all around.
And I think you have your math a bit backwards. .1mm will be smaller than .2. Watch those decimals!!
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'61 NSU Quickly - 150mpg
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