95 geo tracker

[razor02097]

New member here with the first post.


First off my first 4X4's were Jeep Cherokees so I know my way around a garage and the joys of rotten metal

I picked up a 1995 Geo Tracker (4WD, 5 speed, 2 door, rag top, 212k miles) from a guy on Wednesday. I haven't dove into it head first yet so I'm not sure if it's the 8 or 16 valve engine. When checking it out I listened for bad engine noises, checked the oil scent and color, checked the coolant and for heater operation. All seemed well there. The transmission shifts into each gear really nice and the T case shifts easier than my Jeep's

During the test drive the engine stumbles a little bit, feels like it needs a good service but it does pull pretty hard for such a little engine. I didn't notice smoke during idle, deceleration or hard acceleration. The clutch feels pretty good and didn't notice any slipping when fully engaged.

Details to note: It is a very basic vehicle.

• no A/C installed
• manual steering box
• non ABS brakes
• no power anything

Will Shell Rotella T6 5W40 work in this engine? That is the oil I use in my bike and Jeep so it would be nice to be able to use oil I have on hand.

Things I will be doing

1. Replace air filter (Wix)
2. Replace fuel filter (Wix)
3. Replace spark plugs (NGK BKR6E)
4. Replace thermostat with OE type 180*
5. Change engine oil (Rotella T6 5W40) and oil filter (Wix)
6. Change transmission and T case fluid (Redline M-90)
7. Change differential fluid (GL5 80W90)
8. Flush brake system and refill with fresh DOT 3/4
9. Flush coolant system and refill with 50/50 glycol based coolant
10. Clean EGR valve

Anything I should add to the list?

Last thing is there are a few parts I need and will be going to get from salvage yards or craigslist/ebay. If you guys have suggestions on a range of what to pay for the parts I would greatly appreciate it....

• Soft top in good shape 2 or less tears
• fuel tank with filler neck
• steering wheel with horn button
• HVAC knobs and plate that covers the controls
• glove box
• windshield

Sorry to be long winded I just wanted to run a few things by you guys after I scoured your website and wanted to provide as much info as possible.

[littlebigman]

You have a 95 that doesn't have power steering? I thought all trackicks had power steering after like 92...
Being a 95 I would say you have a 16v. But if you don't have power steering It makes me wonder if you don't have the 8V.
Where are you located exactly as that might help some people.
I would say you should pull all the carpet up and check for holes/rust. Then go around and check all the shock/strut/spring mounts for cracks.
Id say it will be near impossible to find a good soft top in the JY. And personally why would you want to? Id save your money and get a hard top. Yes it may be more expensive but it you keep the rig for any length of time it will pay for itself!
You will have to load pics to show everyone as well.

[razor02097]

I just added my location to the profile.

I'm not sure I want a hard top. Especially since I do not have air conditioning I just want a rag in better shape than mine which is being held together with black duct tape and I can't see out of the plastic windows at all.

I did check the strut towers for signs of fatigue I didn't see anything unusual. I checked the body mounts I was able to find. I also poked the floor pans with a screwdriver and knocked on the underside. It looks like the vehicle has an under coating of some sort. Using non invasive methods the floor pans seem solid. The rear trunk area seems to be questionable though.

I'm going to try to get some pictures but every second I am out there I'm wrenching on it. So far I have repaired the rear door latch and lock, freed up the front seat tracks, lubricated all hinges and joints, sprayed penetrating lube on most of the suspension components and used rust conversion spray to halt the rust progression.

EDIT

Adding to this post.... I'm 90% certain I have a 16 valve engine. Looking at 8V engines on the internet looks like they have a different looking valve cover and intake. I know mine has a multi port fuel injection and what looks like an aluminum valve cover. The spark plugs go into the top of the head instead of at an angle off the side of the head.

[Bex]

The spark plugs on the 8v will come up at an angle, the plugs on the 16v will come straight up and down. The valve cover should also say 16v in big letters. The 8v has a large, square air filter on the left side of the engine.
Personally, I prefer 10w40 as a good all year oil, but that's just my opinion. You should probably first get under the car and check the chassis, especially by the rear suspension and gas tank, where muck accumulates and can rust out the chassis. And certainly the rear pan, especially by the wheel wells.
Make sure that the check engine light is on with the key on, and off once the car starts. Personally, I don't find that these cars need power steering - they are light enough and power steering makes them kind of twitchy. And no power anything means no power anything that will break or have wiring problems in a 20 year old car..so that's a plus! You most probably do have rear wheel anti lock brakes, and a small brake computer that is located on the firewall by the regular ECU.
You don't advise why you need the items in your last list, but the convertible top is often offered in ebay (you will need a top from 1995-1998 ONLY. The earlier tops will not fit your car). Other things you will most probably be able to get from a junkyard.
It would be a good idea to also do the timing belt on the car, check the timing and make sure that the crank pulley bolt is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. Timing belt is timed to cylinder #4 firing. Then ignition timing as well, timed to cylinder #1 firing.
Good luck with the new car. Ask questions as you go along, or search the forum. Tons of info here.

[razor02097]

Thanks for the reply

It's going up in the air and wheels off this weekend. The body has a lot of rot. The filler neck is rotten through. The frame seems pretty solid in the rear using the screwdriver stab test. Didn't know about the brake thing... That is one of the issues I have to address and am still researching it so I didn't post about it yet.

I'll add the timing belt to the list. Exactly my thinking about the no power anything. One of the big reasons I went ahead with the car even though the body was rough was it was so darn simple.



As far as the brake issue the fluid is really dirty so I was going to start with inspecting the brake components and flushing the fluid first before I go posting vague questions. The symptoms are the brake pedal goes to the floor but I still have braking function. Pumping the pedal makes the pedal firm and the braking function dramatically improves. Once the pedal is firm it doesn't bleed or sink so I believe there is air in the line or the fluid is really really bad. Either way I'll keep you guys updated

[Bex]

Far better (and scarier) to look at the car from underneath. Check the cross bar that is in front of the gas tank as well, this is a prime piece to rust out. I have already had two welds done on my chassis. My body is pretty much a rust bucket (but since the car is full frame, the body is really only cosmetic) and as I don't weld, it is slowly turning into a fiberglass shell. Ripping up the carpet (a good idea) presents a lot of unwelcome surprises, sadly.
Check your brake pipes well, mine were quite rusty when they were replaced. Most probably your car will have no bleed nipple on the right rear tire - rears are normally bled from the left one, and each front tire. Check to see if you have the load sensing proportional valve mechanism by the right rear tire - if not, then you are RWAL. Good luck.

[razor02097]

Cool man, I'll look around in the back for what needs to be taken care of. I can weld and I have done rust repair before. On my Jeep









Hopefully I get lucky but I'm not counting on it

[Bex]

Hmmm....Jeep looks like a new car, compared to my Tracker....

[jamesgammel]

!995 became the first year for trackers to have the 16 V standard with all 4X4, and all 2WD Ca. and Ma. 2WD non Ca and Ma. would still have the 8V. Because his is 4WD, it does have 16V.
96 trackers the ball-game changed a lot., 95 was just a prelude.
Sidekicks dropped the bare-bones philosophy much earlier; tracker held on as long as they could. You're much more likely to find a 2wd tracker than a suzuki sidekick. 4 dr and 16V motors were available in sidekicks YEARS before Trackers.
Jim

[razor02097]

Thanks for the info, I'm positive it is a 16V now.