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Old 07-04-2012, 10:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Front Wheel Bearing Tool & Torque Specs

I could not find a front wheel bearing tool anywhere around here, they all had to come from the States and it is a real hassle at the border, so I decided to try and make my own.

I took a piece of pipe and ground out four depressions for the tabs.

I used four grade "8" bolts (un-threaded part) and welded them on, then ground down the welds a fair amount, gouged out more of the welds, then over-welded those areas so it would be very strong at the weld sites, I then welded a nut to the back side of the tool so I can get my torque wrench onto it.

I purposely left the tabs long so that I can grind them down to the proper size once I get my Suzuki torn down.

I got the specs for the tool from a picture off of this site that somebody posted on another thread from a while back, they had a ruler on the tool in the picture so it was pretty easy to get the specs that I needed.

It is my first time making something like this but I think it will work out O.K.

Now I just need somebody to help me out with the torque specs for the front wheel bearings.

Everything I have found on line including this site says that the torque should be somewhere between 89 - 180 ft-lbs.

This seems like a huge spread to me and the 180 sounds very high, and that is why I am very confused about this , if anybody knows the proper torque specs please pass them along to me.

1990 Suzuki Sidekick, Tin Top, 2dr, Manual hubs, Automatic Tranny, 4X4
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Front Wheel Bearing Tool & Torque Specs-imgp0007.jpg   Front Wheel Bearing Tool & Torque Specs-imgp0008.jpg   Front Wheel Bearing Tool & Torque Specs-imgp0009.jpg  
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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89 FSM sez 123-180 LB-ft. To assure not over tightening, initially go about 110 or so. Then go as needed to get lock plate screw hole to align, reaching 123 min. Make sure to hand turn wheel hub while tightening. If aligning screw hole in lockplate doesn't fall in the 123-180 range, loosen completely, then start over.

Be nice if you shared what size pipe (OD) you used, and also the bolt diameter size. Nut on other end is more optional. May want to wait till you actually try it out, and confirm it works, then report.

Personally, and it's likely that I will fab one, already have half-dozen wheel bearing nut "sockets" in collection already for other vehicles, with 2 sidekicks it'd pay for me to own one.

Most other 's I've encountered don't torque near as high is the kick does. I'd be leary of "trusting" common pipe. Likely I'll go with mechanic's tubing, usually 4140 or close material. Comes in assortment if sizes, and wall thicknesses. If neccessary, can machine ID or OD to fit properly--fine-tune. I'll pick up a new nut just to have pin hole size, spacing, etc. If possible machine, press fit the pins in. OR possibly thread so they are replaceable. 4140 or stainless possibly. Welding as much shank as you did will affect the temper of the grade 8 bolts. Here, too much may end up yielding a product more prone to failure. The tool can only be as strong as the weakest part. I'd certainly be interested in how it actually works out, so eagerly awaiting a report on that.
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So let's add some confusion.
1991 FSM advises 155 ft/lbs for the wheel bearing nut.
Your tool looks pretty good. Let us know how it works out - maybe we can give you some customers!!

Here, some info from kickfix site on this post - different years indicate different torques:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...earings-2.html
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't see that as adding confusion. It's almost mid-way for the 89 FSM of 123-180. I usually strive for mid-way on torque ranges anyway. They do make revisions in their recommendations, publishing "supplements" many time when they do. 155 certainly is outside 123-180. 180 *mite* be short the thread pulling point, but why "go for" the max. Figuring tolerance in torque wrenches, ageing, whether its a direct read or "click" type reaction time even, it's pretty hard to hit an EXACT 155 torque. Was it "really" 152 when click was set for 155? how would you even know? "Shooting for" 123 or 180 may really be a less than apt tact. I vote shoot for 155, and accept anything reasonable close +/- 5. If we were working on Saturn V rockets, one might appropriately ask for more precision.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesgammel View Post
I don't see that as adding confusion. It's almost mid-way for the 89 FSM of 123-180. I usually strive for mid-way on torque ranges anyway. ...
If we were working on Saturn V rockets, one might appropriately ask for more precision.
I used a very unscientific method when I did mine.

A breaker bar (and pipe ext. IF needed) to line up the the screw holes with the locking nut. Spinning the wheel to make sure it was NOT too tight. It had no play that I could determine.

It hasn't fallen out of the sky yet.
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01 Chevy Tracker 4D, 2.5L auto trans, A/C, ps, 125k, mi. auto locking hubs
----------------------
Under Repair
95 Tracker 2D Conv. 16v VIN#6 171k mi. 5sp A/C ps
96 Sidekick Sport 4D 1.8L, auto AC 114k mi.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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fwiw - Harbor Freight has Torque wrenches on sale but I think you need a coupon.

Item #239 or 807 you can get for $13 w/coupon
Torque Wrench - Harbor Freight Tools

btw - they also had a meter to measure current that plugs right into the fuse spot.

Harbor Freight Tools ? Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
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96 Geo Metro 84 k mi 3cyl 5sp Lsi
01 Chevy Tracker 4D, 2.5L auto trans, A/C, ps, 125k, mi. auto locking hubs
----------------------
Under Repair
95 Tracker 2D Conv. 16v VIN#6 171k mi. 5sp A/C ps
96 Sidekick Sport 4D 1.8L, auto AC 114k mi.
----------------------
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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got a sku or link to the current fuse meter?
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesgammel View Post
got a sku or link to the current fuse meter?
Fuse Tester - Harbor Freight Tools
__________________
----------------------
96 Geo Metro 84 k mi 3cyl 5sp Lsi
01 Chevy Tracker 4D, 2.5L auto trans, A/C, ps, 125k, mi. auto locking hubs
----------------------
Under Repair
95 Tracker 2D Conv. 16v VIN#6 171k mi. 5sp A/C ps
96 Sidekick Sport 4D 1.8L, auto AC 114k mi.
----------------------
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Gumby,
Thanks, the 30 is now on my HF list for next Billings, MT run
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
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A word of Caution:
I don't see anything in the description that says this but the ones I saw in the store had 2 diff size connections. I will call the 20A a mini fuse connection and the 30A a regular sized fuse connection.

I am not sure IF there is a adapter avail to fit one to the other.

The point is while a 30A seems to make more sense IF the circuit has the smaller fuse size connection there could be problems.

Hope that makes sense.

ps. I just noticed they both require a 23A 12V battery, hmmm.
__________________
----------------------
96 Geo Metro 84 k mi 3cyl 5sp Lsi
01 Chevy Tracker 4D, 2.5L auto trans, A/C, ps, 125k, mi. auto locking hubs
----------------------
Under Repair
95 Tracker 2D Conv. 16v VIN#6 171k mi. 5sp A/C ps
96 Sidekick Sport 4D 1.8L, auto AC 114k mi.
----------------------
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