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Old 07-13-2012, 09:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesgammel View Post
I have 3 cases of R-12 (1 #-ers) That I bought back in the early 80's when a store had a sale, 1.00 a can (24 cans a case) back in 96 or so, I heard that R-12 was going for 300 a pound. Not sure what it would bring today.
NICE!!! I work for a parts plus auto parts warehouse our last sale of r12 30lb keg in 2005 sold for $1300,
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I can remember R-12 at $.50 cents a pound back in my 70's Navy days. We would think little about blowing a 100+ lb charge on a big reefer unit to work on it.

Reclaim??? What's THAT!

We've come along ways.
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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For what I heard the CFC are not as harmful as what we have been told. The hole on the Ozone Layer in Antarctica has been there for ages and does not grow or shrink either.

The real reason (according to some sources) for phasing out R12 is because DuPont's patent is ran out; so they need to come with some new to get a new patent. Same way pharmaceutical companies comes out with a new medication that does the same thing as the previous one every 6 years (in lame terms, just change the flavor so they can patent a new formula).

I am not saying that is the truth but that is what came through the grape vine.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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and before someone asks me to sell em some, forget it. It's not illegal to possess R-12, however, you have to be certified to be able to buy it. I already owned it prior to the law taking effect. sale to someone not certified would trigger a law violation. Another strange part was it was restricted to "containers under 20#". That was obviously to keep "general" public fom being able to service their own systems, and "forcing" you to go to a certified tech. This counters the most general conditions.
For example, most states or localities "require" licensed electricians to "construct" electrical systems in a house. However, that's not always a stead-fast rule. YOU can do all electrical installation and repairs, etc if you own the house, even if required to get a permit. The license requirement ONLY covers "installation for hire" You can also do a friend's provided you aren't compensated. Also, if you did all mods, etc IN the house, they can't force their way in to inspect, they can only inspect what's outside, thus buried lines have to be left open for inspection. Just a point where what's written in law, doesn't apply witout exception, even if the exception isn't written in the code.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The parts hunt is getting closer.... I finally found a good compressor, and brackets, however one bracket is not quite right... prob going to have to fab to make it work.when i put this thing together i will post a video on you tube of parts i will be using.... i am excited to get it done, but prob wont get to it for a week or so...
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default pic update

Here are some pics to start...

1994 tracker a/c conversion-ac.jpg
almost all the pieces for the install.
1994 tracker a/c conversion-hoses.jpg
two hoses, one line. w/ accumulator and switch
1994 tracker a/c conversion-wireharness.jpg
engine compartment wire harness, can be pulled without cutting anything.
1994 tracker a/c conversion-compresser.jpg
compressor
1994 tracker a/c conversion-compresserbracket.jpg
compressor brackets (hard to find) the adjuster side is off of a dohc, does not quite fit the sohc will need modified.
1994 tracker a/c conversion-newparts.jpg
new belt, a/c o-ring assortment, metric bolt assortment
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evap.jpg
evaporator housing with a/c amplifier and wires
1994 tracker a/c conversion-venttube.jpg
vent tube removed from my non-ac tracker, between blower motor housing, and heater core housing (this is where the evap will go)
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapstudmounthole.jpg
this is where the evap stud mount will go through, all four holes were grommeted
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapmountholes.jpg
these three holes are for the evap drain tube and inlet/outlet lines
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapmount.jpg
upper evap mounting
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapdraintube.jpg
be sure to place drain tube through hole before others or it will kink.
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapclampposition.jpg
evap strap clamp place in this position to install evap
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evap1.jpg
evap in position
1994 tracker a/c conversion-evapenginecomp.jpg
evap inlet/outlet, and drain tube in engine compartment
1994 tracker a/c conversion-acswitchconnector.jpg
a/c switch plug
1994 tracker a/c conversion-acamplifierplug.jpg
a/c amplifier plug (the upper one was already in vehicle)


MORE PICS TO FOLLOW
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Default more pics

1994 tracker a/c conversion-radachosebracket.jpg
ac low side hose bracket, passengers side, there is also one on the drivers side.. both attatch to radiator top mount bolt.

1994 tracker a/c conversion-2012-07-27135311.jpg
a/c reciever drier location--

1994 tracker a/c conversion-2012-07-27140834.jpg
Engine coolant temp switch- (NEW)

1994 tracker a/c conversion-2012-07-27140846.jpg
Engine coolant temp switch located just behind thermostat housing (pipe plug)

1994 tracker a/c conversion-2012-07-27140904.jpg
reciever drier (NEW)


1994 tracker a/c conversion-2012-07-28095153.jpg
This is the belt i used, was trial and error stock belt size for a/c with power steering was too short!

No more pics unless there is one someone would like just chime in and i will do my best to post it............
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:12 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Can you use the same radiator? Some vehicles added a radiator of larger capacity (row / tubes) when equipped with A/C is why I ask.

Do you have (need) a fan shroud for the radiator too?

I assume that you have to change the dash control assembly out as well for an "A/C" style?
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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oh wow i just realized i did not take a pic of the condenser and condenser fan assembly..... oops... it just mounts in front of radiator four bolt holes, the two lower mount holes were threaded the two top ones were not.. kind of difficult to get in if you do not take the grille and bumper off, ( i did not)...

The compressor bracket i said would need modified,,, i used it as is however between bracket and compressor in the adjustment slot, i put two washers to to keep belt straight... i only put one bolt to mount bracket to head seems to hold fine..

charged with 2 cans r134a (24 oz) before i installed hoses on compressor i put in 3.3 oz oil. all connections i replaced o-rings.

The a/c switch next to the heater controls i thought i would have to pull out, did NOT, punch out the square hole, and thread the switch in pushes right in and connected wire .

the most difficult part for me was finding the parts.

any questions please ask...

on a scale from 1-10,,, 10 being the most difficult.. i would rate this project a solid 2.. there was no drilling, no welding was a few cuss words every time i would drop bolt or wrench and fishing it from on top of my skid plate(finally removed it for easier retrieval)

took it out this weekend drove almost 600 miles, works great...
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max View Post
Can you use the same radiator? Some vehicles added a radiator of larger capacity (row / tubes) when equipped with A/C is why I ask.
Same radiator


Quote:
Originally Posted by Max View Post
Do you have (need) a fan shroud for the radiator too?
the stock shroud is fine, there is a electric condenser fan in front of radiator (sorry forgot to take a pic of that)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max View Post
I assume that you have to change the dash control assembly out as well for an "A/C" style?
no the little square hole bottom right of the controls pushes out, and push in switch(will take a pic and post)
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