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Old 11-21-2012, 08:27 AM   #81 (permalink)
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too much info (redux)
the stock fan uses miniscule HP disengaged. 1/3 hp ? true parasitic drain.... (id love to measure it)

getting a 5sp tranny would be more effective.

slow down
get an MPG gage like my page shows. learn to drive in the sweet spot.....

the fan makers all lie to you, they all have an axe to grind, they can't help it.
less noise.

to make any decision takes good input, i cant say i have that, after all there is no spec, on our fan. the only data i have is SAE.org.

you can strobe the thing with any strobe light or use an optical tacho (hand held ) and see it slip big time. (cold air across it)
id love to do the mini dyno test.... its and easy setup.

Last edited by xxx; 11-21-2012 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:40 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the mechanical fan never fully disengages... The fan clutch does partially disengage the fan but it isn't like an A/C clutch.

Yeah if you tried to spin the stock fan with an electric motor it would take more power but modern electric fans do not use just 5 blades.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:53 AM   #83 (permalink)
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that word fully , sells many fans after market and not one site anywhere states, the actual drag. (lots of lies, no proof) and no suzuki spec either (other than cut in temps)
yes the grease in side is viscus when cold and does use some energy, its small. on a therm fan clutch. The question is , how much is it. Id say its not important
but on the ecommodder.com forum they'd have a hissy fit and show all improvements all add up. ok. good. they do add, and after 1 year, sure, a gallon of fuel>? what? what is payback. time.. if any. (fan plus labor costs)


bet , you could not measure any difference at all. (odometer ? and island pump gauge gallons?.)
if you did?,that be inside the normal variance of all tests. ( the island pump never shuts off same time for any car so the MPG will very more than the parasitic loss by 10 fold.)

but you could make a tiny dyno (or just a emoter and and an ammeter /volt meter to measure watts lost. at the fan.

its and act of faith.

put in a 200f thermostat and get 1/2mpg.? (raises efficiency)

i think my test is no good.
your spinning air, and the air slips...... physics,,,,, dang.....
the loss is in the coupling (heat) and the heating effects of spinning air. (not much and real hard to measure)
so the bench test would be , replace engine with a DC motor. (bench test is hard with shroud and rad in place.)_
and measure motor current at idle (cant do faster because you dont have free air flowing on the bench)
bingo, rubber meets road.... emotor spins clutch>>> clutch spins real fan in real shroud)

when driving you get free air past RAD the cancels most the parasitic drag (complex huh) the efan dont get rid if the water pump.(belts pulley,etc, all are very wasteful)

in military tests (have link), they got rid off all belts and used emotors and switches to control (with processor) to control it all , on huge engines. or 10% gain.
here is just a fan. swap.

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Old 11-21-2012, 09:38 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor02097 View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but the mechanical fan never fully disengages...
Yes, it is constantly running. It operates at the same speed as the water pump shaft until the air temp at the shaft exceeds 130F, at which time it will revolve at 3100 rpm always (clutch slipping), independent of the water pump shaft.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:25 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Yes I realize it is actuated by heat not centrifugal force. I was simply saying that an electric fan will remain completely off requiring no power at all until it is needed.

This thread is what got me thinking about it. I know the guy's testing is grossly unscientific.
Electric vs. belt driven cooling fan - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:16 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Yes, but is that not the reason for the fan clutch, to reduce the amount of horsepower that the fan is drawing? The fan is locked to the shaft at low/idle speed, when horsepower is not needed. As the engine speeds up, and horsepower is wanted, the clutch slips so that not as much horsepower is being used. That being said, the fan will still rotate at about 3100 rpm, with the clutch slipped. A fan with the fan clutch will use less hp than a system that doesn't have the clutch.
I think another application for the electric fan is to be able to turn it off when you are in mud or water, so that the constant turning of the fan isn't throwing muck all over the engine and components.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:26 PM   #87 (permalink)
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DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums - View Single Post - V6 electric fan assembly on Hemi truck pic thread.

dang mine free wheels. all 4 cars. at idle and anytime cold.
i can stall all 4 at idle.

i wonder if CAMI uses different clutches, they use the State side Harrison radiator (owned by gm) what else? (lots) gm paint, tire, shocks, wipers, belts, many things, so what you have , WHO KNOWS?

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Old 11-21-2012, 12:37 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Sidekicks and HP.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peculiar1 View Post
Sidekicks and HP.
x2!! I love it!!
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #90 (permalink)
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watch out for ecomodder bs
Quote:
he said is rarely needed
that is bunk
at red lights, all summer long, needed.
going up a very steep hill like grape vine or rocky's or I80 to Tahoe. (slow)
needed in the hot summer. (USA southern states?)
and any time cooling issues come up. or carrying a load...
like good ol' limphome ,hitting the proverbial fan (double pun) grin (dumps huge heat load on the RAD it does)

please dont get hurt testing that fan, be beyond arms length for any wild testing.
the base ball bat test.
the throw rag test.
never hands. never dangle rag test.

in a car (have 2 now) with electric fan its obvious when it comes on
not so on the suzuki, not at all, (unless it fails.)
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