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Old 04-01-2012, 09:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
12mpg??? Sounds like you are in limphome mode. Is your check engine light on with the key on and then off once the car starts? It must be.
Have you done any maintenance on the car? (timing/tune-up etc).
Your car should be getting at least 25mpg or so. Answer about the check engine light (or advise if it is on all the time). Basically, the computer puts the car into limphome when it is unable to read the signals from the various sensors - the computer then goes to a pre-defined set of values just to 'get you home'. Your car must be running horribly!!! Give more info.

(And thanks, Parkrat - your advice means then to reduce the IAC input, you must turn the ring clockwise....)
yes Bex, my check engine light together with battery and oil signal are on then off once engine starts. I recently had major cleaning of TB, IAC, then adjusted the valves and timing set to 5 deg. Also replaced the Fuel filter.I'm not encountering so much traffic from home going to office and vise versa but still getting very low mpg. One contributor for this low mpg might be the automatic transmission problem, which is delayed shifting to reverse when cold. When engine is hot , my usual 1st to 2nd gear shift occurs when I'm in 2000rpm, then to next gear at 2500 rpm. Also, I felt that I'm lacking with power when travelling upwards. My driving pattern is that I'm always around 2000 to 2500 rpm. What are other possible causes of very low mpg? Thanks.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Peculiar (and sorry for bit of hijack) but if this is happening to your car only during cold start up, and your warm idle is fine, then chances are this is the idle air valve on the throttle body that may be blocked up. You can carefully try cleaning it (and the port you see when the valve is pushed in). We have also learned that this idle air valve can be regulated somewhat by turning the metal ring on the front of the valve (inside the cover). Search the forum, as this was posted within the past month or so. I believe to raise the idle, you would turn this CCW. You would need to have the car off while doing this, turn the ring 1/4 turn CCW, then start the car and see if/how your cold idle is affected, and adjust accordingly.
Bex, cleaned the valve....however I may give it another shot as I don't remember seeing the port. The hot idle is very smooth. I will also take note of the ability to turn metal ring. Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi all,
I have been searching forums for months on a similar issue with my G16B, 16valve efi vitara.
My start up revs are around 2000rpm and then after a few minutes warming up it drops back to around the 1000rpm mark.
I cannot locate any adjusting mechanism on the throttle body assembly ( as mentioned) for the G16B and was just wondering If I should also be looking for a vacuum hose leak, or is there something more complex.
All advice appreciated.
Kev.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hi all,
I have been searching forums for months on a similar issue with my G16B, 16valve efi vitara.
My start up revs are around 2000rpm and then after a few minutes warming up it drops back to around the 1000rpm mark.
I cannot locate any adjusting mechanism on the throttle body assembly ( as mentioned) for the G16B and was just wondering If I should also be looking for a vacuum hose leak, or is there something more complex.
All advice appreciated.
Kev.
I tried to adjust the screw at the TOP of TB to lower or increase the idling. thanks
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks Stallone,
I have already adjusted that screw with no impact on the cold idle.
From advice on another forum, this appears to be the hot idle adjustment.
My problem is the excessive revs on cold idle.

Kev.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The car is supposed to start at about 2000 rpm, then within 5-10 seconds drop around 500 rpm to 1500 rpm then slowly drop to 800 steady warm idle. If you car is timed and tuned properly (really), and you do not like the 2000 rpm initial (5 second) start, you can adjust this at the dashpot (throttle opener) at the rear of the throttle body. But remember, idle is only a symptom, rather than a problem itself. Your warm idle at 1000 rpm is a bit too high, and may very well be a leak in a vacuum hose, which I would investigate before touching idle screws (and some are factory set and NOT meant to be touched). You can first take a pliers and pinch all the vacuum hoses in your car. With the exception of the ISC air hose (going from the air filter to the ISC) any hose that you pinch should NOT affect or drop down the idle in any way. If you find one that does, then you have found your vacuum leak. Again, this car is designed to have a high idle at cold start, in order to warm the car up faster.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:51 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Bex.
I am currently 300km from the vehicle which is housed interstate.
I will be over there in a little over a week and will check for leaks.
Fingers crossed it is just a leak, but in saying that, from what you have said, the start up idle is not out of the ordinary.
Final question, does the ambient air temp affect the cold idle. Maybe our current hot weather out here will have an effect.

Kev.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:20 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stallone View Post
hi suzuki gurus. just want to ask if it is normal to have 1500 RPM during cold start for about 3 minutes before going down to "800 or 1000" RPM? Will this 3 minute high rpm cause premature wear and tear on my engine? NO.

Newly cleaned IAC/ISC for my 98 sidekick G16B, 1.6, 16V, Philippines. OBD1 or OBD2 ? Thanks in advance.
YOUR car, Op is a air density MPI engine?, why do others with TBI SPEED density 8v post help, your cars EFI is 100% opposite, in design and function.
fiddling the wrong screws, hot and cold is , well, crazy.
The topic is G18B right? start your own 8v posts. please. hijackers...


the car has 2 devices that vary by COLD temp's.
the IAC (thermal , is open some cold , more some, the more cold) if very cold RPM can hit 2000.
the ISC does too. but the ECT tells ECU the water temp and controls
all RPM , after about 150F(spec, is 158F, 150 is reality) and above. The RPM goes down fast after 150F water temp, regardless of out door temps. !

so post a thermal question?
my car is xxxx rpm dead cold and then xxxx at about 150f coolant? is this normal?
then WINDS Down to 800 hot. as bex has posted 1000s of times.... here.....
or post the cold start ambient , or night temps. if stating at 6am. (the block can be way colder in them morning then ambient...)

1000 hot is wrong if A/C is OFF.
the A/C sends a command to the ECU to go to 1000.
800 is set with the bleed screw hot. (never touch the throttle stop screw ever)
never touch the bleed cold
and key hands off the ISC 5mm hex screw. (that is only for fixing a broken ISC !!!)

the OP? i have 1 question, is this car OBD2 compliant , if if yes, why not buy a real scan tools and stop guessing?

12mph is a HARD fail.. and on OBD2 very rare to ever see 12mpg..... (ill assume you know how to measure MPG)
SO ?
post cars VIN TAG so we can help you fix a PHIL car and not get bad advice from to others that never saw a PHIL car.? or have no idea how cars vary by country. !!
Square one:
Q1;
when you open the hood, and look up ?,do you see the white huge tag? with a vacuum map and country compliance words?
no?
then look at the fire wall? do you see that body tag on the fire wall , next to the battery. says suzuki on it ... and lots of numbers and letters. all so very important
to diagnosis and ordering parts x10.
this tag tells a mechanic, what parts are in your car, and how it works, (if still stock , is it?)

It NOT a TBI, maybe MPI or CARB. (some countries run carbs up to 2001 and beyond, can you ID a carb. if not send a photo of engine or the BODY tag. OR vin.

you might also get your cars ECU part number , for even better help.. (Hidden on to of case, sadly) ECU is behind left front speaker.
why not post a photo of your engine. or a link to it posted anywhere on earth.
?>???????

amazing HIJACKS and odd questions ...... gee, not all kicks are the same.... not hardly world wide......
start you own posts with full car spec, and engine photo.
or full VIN, or full body tag, as APPLICABLE.
Kart, what Vitara? the E24? G16B , with MPI, with OBD2, or OBD1. or what?
I promise answers get way better, with that wink:

i see you have mpg posts back to JUNE


here is a car from E24 Australia a v6 ( this tag tells me what it has)
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TA...l/image_3.html

here is an old 16B ,note? missing year.? (must be year encoded in chassis number?)



please change your SIG
98 sidekick G16B, 1.6, 16V, Philippines.
98 sidekick G16B MPI (if true), 1.6, 16V, Market code (there is no phil codes) so what is your market code) tranny 3or4sped, doors, and A./C of if have it.
eg
98 sidekick G16B MPI , 1.6, 16V, market #24?, 4sp? , A/C? + P/S ? doors how many doors???
the door count changes the wiring !

the last 2 digits of the TAG bottom , is MArket.

if you have this above right knee it is OBD2 I think your car is OBD1 but could be wrong. (I ASK YOU SO WE CAN SAVE A FORTUNE ON PARTS AND LABOR )
[IMG]98 sidekick G16B, 1.6, 16V, Philippines.[/IMG]

you have huge postings for just one car.
and 1 problem
I vote to start over and lets get your SIG right so others can see with it is....

Last edited by xxx; 11-29-2012 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:21 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krat View Post
Thanks for the reply Bex.
I am currently 300km from the vehicle which is housed interstate.
I will be over there in a little over a week and will check for leaks.
Fingers crossed it is just a leak, but in saying that, from what you have said, the start up idle is not out of the ordinary.
Final question, does the ambient air temp affect the cold idle. Maybe our current hot weather out here will have an effect.

Kev.
Oops, missed the part that you are 16v, just picked up on the rest. So, no, you do not hav a throttle opener that will close within 5-10 seconds of the car cold starting. But these cars are meant to rev high (1500 rpm or so) at cold start up. Try pinching your vacuum hoses to see if any of them affect the idle. Also, you need to make sure that the car warms up to proper warm temp (IR thermometer pointed to thermostat housing should read 170F or so). You can check your ISC (idle speed control solenoid) by turning your headlights and heater blower on high, and seeing what the idle does (it should remain the same or drop slightly), however a bad ISC will normally cause the idle to be too low.
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'97 Suzuki Vitara 8v, 1.6L 5 sp, 4wd, 2dr, tintop, horribly purple
'61 NSU Quickly - 150mpg
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:42 AM   #20 (permalink)
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its ok, most posts OP never fully say what engine it really has.
just G16 or A or B. or carb or not.....
IIRC some 16Bs have carbs. too.... (e01 or JDM , no doc on latter so don't know, i want them to tell me, its MPI.)

ive begged this guy to post his body tag before. ,,, no problem used to prying out...
but due to geriatric, issues, cant remember if he posted it.
IIRC , it was only partial.?

and E01 or JDM is floating my head.????
no photo of engine. would love to see that.. (stuff missing)
other posters
you guys forget this.
1: not all markets use the same engine, EFI or parts.
2: many cars are missing parts or are hacked.? (modified,,missing, molested)
3: no photo, no joy, the helpers here are blind.{we are a sorry lot?} (nor can we drive it)

one guy from PHILL (lately)
had a JDM , no EGR, NO O2, no CAT (built day 1 that way), and is tuned with a CO resistor block, "NO CLOSED LOOP"
and was MPI.
as alien to us , as men from mars

Last edited by xxx; 11-29-2012 at 11:52 AM.
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