Hi, I have a 1989 Geo Tracker I beleve is USA, TBI, 5 speed 4x4 beastodometer reads 80,000miles
I purchased the car for $150 in poor running condition. It had sat about 2 years mainly because the previous owner felt it was unsafe for road travel seeing as the hood was not securely latched and was afraid it would go flying off
There were other issues like broken window regulators which allowed the weather and a kitty cat and tons of hair in the cab,leaky top,and an unknown almost bone dry tranny.
Any way,during the summer I took the seats and center console out and cleaned the interior up,changed the oil and fired it up. ran a quart of ATF through the tranny , flushed it and refilled it with fresh 85 90w gear oil.It quieted it up a bit.
I solved the "hood problem" by borrowing the rubber bumper off the rear door.
I Fashioned a latch for the removable top. ( Oh, is anybody elses rear hard top hardware held on by only one screw per side?)mine seems to be like that stock.
The check engine light wasnt on at all when I got it, with the help of this message board and everyone who participates I was able to remove the cluster to find a PO had removed the bulb entirely. I was then able to borrow the bulb from the fasted belts warning, I then found out about the NAG switch.
I got real busy with work and then the tranny in my moms dodge went out so I decided to let her use it as a daily driver, unfortunately before a real complete tune up.
It was kicking along fine besides it sputtering at a cruise when you let of the gas pedal, and her complaining about the lack of heat it produces. (clogged heater core?).
Then one day it acted like it was running out of gas. she said it would die and not start for 15 -30 minutes. My first thought should of been the fuel filter obviously, but no. I had read up a little on the KICK FIX pages(WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM? VERY USE FULL YET MILDLY CONFUSING)about the ISC and fuel injector. So a few days ago I Went ahead and removed the ISC and I soaked it in carb cleaner. turns out the inside should be green not black. Really dirty in there. (on my 89 is it possible to put it on backward?)
I then removed the Injector and the screens appeared to be clean as a whistle. I reassembled everything the way I found it. Hooked the battery back up and cranked it over. NO Start After about 3 rounds of 15 second cranks I went to take a look at the engine and I noticed fuel leaking out of the exhaust between the manifold and the down pipe. I assumed the it was the Injector since i had just removed it. Back apart, with the injector out upon closer inspection I noticed the upper most o-ring broken down to nothing.Will this cause my NO START problem? I have tried to source an o-ring though my local NAPA to no avail. they told me my only option was to buy the whole injector at $300.
Sorry for the long story, I figured the more info I provide the easier the diagnosis.Oh and I just picked up a fuel filter, time to fight my way through the undercoating Any input will be greatly appreciated. thank you
Perhaps the car is trying to save you by not starting....Why would you want to start the car with fuel leaking all over the place?? Regrettably, I understand that Suzuki does not sell replacement o-rings, and that you can only get them here: O-Rings, Inc. Since 1958 - Buy Online
Or you may try to source the whole injector from a junkyard, if possible.
Also, did you ever replace the CEL light, and if so, is the CEL on with key on and off when cranking? Can you get codes from the ECU?
The fact that the car has no heat is a real clue....this car should have GREAT heat, and the heat should be available almost immediately. Do you have a thermostat in the car? If so, is it 180F or 195F installed with the proper gasket, not floating around in the housing, bleed hole facing the radiator? Coolant? Ever flush the radiator?
Yes,I agree.The fuel leaking took me by surprise too. I haven't tried cranking it since.Im not in to burning up.
I replaced the CEL with the fasten belts light,however I did not replace the fasten belts light.I am not near the car to verify that the check engine light functions properly, but when I switched out the bulb and car ran it did. I dont quite fully understand pulling codes, I know you need a paperclip and the plug is near the battery somewhere.I will try to download the information and read up on it.
As for the cooling system, I did drain the radiator and fill it with new 50/50 mix anti-freeze. However I did not flush it. The engine ran cool and never overheated so I figured Id wait on a new thermostat seeing it dosent leak, didnt stick and Ive had numerous problems in the past with aftermarket thermostats AND gaskets.On my Subaru I went through several new thermostats that stick and gaskets that leak on beautifully prepped surfaces. I finally had to go to the dealership and get an OEM thermostat and gasket. The rubber coated steel gasket sealed perfect the first time.
unlike the paper gaskets at napa. Can you recommend a good part source for Geo Trackers?
Checking the codes is really easy. Just in front of the battery is a small white connector with black locking top on it, dangling on a couple of wires. You depress the black locking tab, take off the black top, and see either 4 or 6 pins inside. If 4 pins, you jump top right with bottom left pin. If 6 pins, you jump middle top with bottom left pin. The locking tab is on the top of the connector, so you know which is top and bottom. Use a metal paperclip. Then, key on, the CEL will flash like code. Flash, pause, flash flash means 12. There is a longer paused in between codes, if there is more than one. The codes will continue to repeat as long as the key is in the on position.
For the thermostat, you have the option of getting a 180F or 195F thermostat - 195F is preferred. To get the hotter thermostat from Suzuki directly, the p/n is #17600-60823. Or you can get the 180F from Napa: NAPA AUTO PARTS
The thermostat also needs a 4mm rubber gasket, which I believe comes with the above ones, but if you order elsewhere, you may have to purchase separately. It is important that the thermostat be working properly, as otherwise the ECU notices that you are not running at proper warm temp, and continues to inject in order to warm the car up.
I also recommend that you start sourcing your parts through Suzuki (or using the similar Suzuki model when sourcing through aftermarket suppliers). Geo Tracker is no longer well supported, and all Suzuki parts will fit your car, as long as you identify it properly.
Since my last post I found and replaced the right fuel injector O-rings,and replaced the exhaust manifold to pipe gasket.
As for the heater, I was able to remove the air duct below the glove box and I found this
I cleared that out and it blows much better.
I recently removed the valve cover to replace a leaky gasket and I found a loose screw. its the far back left.
Im not sure what its purpose is but Id appreciate any input on it.
Also I would like to adjust the valves and Im having troubles searching the forums for any info.
I am contemplating replacing the timing belt while im at it. it seems straight forward but Im not sure where or how to line it up.
Oh, and has anybody had any luck finding a replacement PCV hose?
USA '89 Tracker, 1.6 8V TBI, 5sp 4WD
From the 1989 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual sitting in my lap:
"To get a Trouble Code out of the ECM, it is necessary to plug a spare fuse into the position for that purpose located in the fuse box." It is described elsewhere as location 14 (bottom row, far right).
The loose screw you showed is a Rocker Arm Shaft Screw. It secures the rocker arm shaft and should be tightened to 7-8.5 ft-lbs.
The valve lash setting procedure is not hard, but has quite a few steps. Here's a summary for your 1989 Tracker.
1. Turn the crankshaft pulley until the V mark is aligned with the 0 mark on the timing belt cover. It is easier to turn the crankshaft pulley with the spark plugs removed and the rocker arms adjusted to be loose.
2. Remove the distributor cap and note the location of the contact end of the rotor cap. If the rotor cap is pointed generally toward the bolt that secures the distributor when you adjust the timing, the #1 piston is at top dead center. If it is pointed away from the bolt, turn the crankshaft pulley one more turn until you are at TDC.
3. Intake valves are located on the passenger side of the head and are numbered 1-4 from front to back. Exhaust valve are on the driver side and are number 5-8 from front to back.
4. At TDC, adjust the valve lash on valves 1, 2, 5, and 7. Specifications are below.
5. Rotate the crankshaft pulley one turn and adjust valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
6. Button it back up.
Intake: Cold 0.13 - 017 mm
Intake - Hot 0.23 - 0.27 mm
Exhaust - Cold 0.16 - 0.20 mm
Exhaust - Hot 0.26 - 0.30 mm
Torque on lock nut: 11 - 13.5 ft-lb
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