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Old 11-04-2011, 07:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 93 sidekick water temp sensor for ecu

My rad hose blew one day and ever since as the car warms up it idles very fast..2000rpm and takes a long time before it settles down to 900rpm. I don't have the check engine lite on and I think it is the water temperature sensor for the ecu, because once it does settle down, if I unplug it, the idle speeds up again to 2000 rpm and then it takes over a minute to settle down.
Any ideas anyone and where can I get a cheap replacement in Canada?
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I think the key to this is 'rad hose blew'. What does that mean? You need to give more details about what happened there.
First, spec out your car - 8v or 16v? If 16v, the idle will race on a cold engine if there are vacuum leaks.
And you can test your ECT to see if it is ok.
ECT-testing
You advise you have no check engine light. Does the CEL go on with the key in the on position and then off when the car is running?
Give more details.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you overheated it.
and may be (if lucky) only roasted the crap out of thermostat.
and not its funky.
pulling the ECT only melts a good CAT, dont do that.
that delay is the the time for ECU to come back out of limphome.
it proves nothing but ECU is not DEAD.

pulling it , causes -40F/C coolant reading, (throws tons of fuel)
then fails and goes to limphome

now if really on track , watch the coolant temp, is it slow to warm
bingo bad thermostat.
or wrong gasket in side , some need the rubber ring, for all 4mm well stat wells.
not right gasket it will float and cause horrible running.

you can test the ECT. its no hard, my fast sensor page shows how to do that.
but if its good and the coolant is cold then its only telling the truth.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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here is my readings off both ECT and IAT
new and used .

temp-sensors

all done in a kitchen.
can be done on car, cold and hot.
with only a lowly DMM on resistance ranges.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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this sensor is one of the most easy to test on car or off car.
any ohm meter can do that. (a DMM on 20k Omega range)
but takes a thermometer to discover just how good it is.
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Old 11-05-2011, 02:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's a update.

I tried changing the thermostat and still the same. So I did readings of ECT on the car from cold..32F up to what it came up to operating temp. The readings looked within range and still no check engine lite on. Only when I did a scan that I got a code 14 which I believe a possible fault with the ect. It still fast idled when the car as at operating temp and eventually the rpm dropped from 1800-1000rpm, but if you shut the engine off, even for a few seconds, it jumps back up to 1800 and stays there for 1-2 minutes before settling down to 1000.
So what i did was attach a variable resistor to the socket of the ect. Dialed it to approx. 250 ohms and the problem when away. So most likely I need a new ect.
I live in Toronto, Canada and the only source that I can find for a new ECT is from Suzuki and they want 70 bucks for one. Does anyone have a cheaper source? possibly fleabay?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Scan??? What kind of scan can you do on the 93?? No scanner for this car.
Anyway, 16v? 8v? Is that $70 US or Canadian?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You jumper a wire on the #2 and #3 terminal socket that is near the relay box by the battery and then you turn the ignition key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light on the dash. They want $70 buck Canadian for the sensor. And its a 16v MPFI
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Normally if the ECU sees a current fault, the CEL will stay on with the car running. Are you sure that this code is not in memory? Remove your dome fuse for about 2 minutes. Now see if you get the code again. First time I have heard jumping with a paperclip called a 'scan'. Cool.....
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
Normally if the ECU sees a current fault, the CEL will stay on with the car running. Are you sure that this code is not in memory? Remove your dome fuse for about 2 minutes. Now see if you get the code again. First time I have heard jumping with a paperclip called a 'scan'. Cool.....
Come on BEX, is your memory failing you?

I called the clip a scanner more that a yr ago and suggested to several that you were a likely supplier..... Philip
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