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Old 03-15-2011, 09:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1992 Geo Tracker will not start

Alright i have a 1992 tracker, we were driving it home and it started loosing power and died. We have not been able to get it to even sputter sence. we have read almost every post on this topic so here goes the specs.
We have spark (kind of orangy not blue or white)
We have fuel( looks like a consistant cone shaped mist)
We have compression. (last we checked)
We have replaced the following
ecm - rebuilt
coil - new
cap - new
rotor - new
plugs - new
wires - new
and ignition module - new

the injector sprays as it should so we think.
it cranks over just fine doesn't seem abnormal in any way.
We have checked the timing belt.
fuel pump is working fine. builds pressure.. however it will stop pumping even if the line is disconnected and cannot build pressure?
Whats left? ?If anyone has a suggestions feel free to post we wnat it running again! Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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First try to start the car with starter fluid and see if it runs. If so, that indicates that you have spark, and your problem is on the fuel side of ignition.
Was your check engine light on when the car died? Even if not, try to pull codes from your ECU and see if you can get a code 12. Info how to do it here. You only need a paper clip.
Check Engine Lamp stuck ON?
If you cannot get a code 12 from the ECU, and you have never changed the capacitors in the ECU, it may be that they are leaking and need to be changed. A $5.00 fix, if you know how to solder.
You can also insert the diagnostic jumper (as explained in the link) as though you were trying to pull codes, and crank the car (no more than 10 times), and leave the key in the on position, and see if you get a code 41 or 42, indicating a cam position sensor problem (timing, etc.)
Other than that, you need to advise if your car is an 8 or 16v. Weak spark might be an indication of a timing issue.
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'91 Tracker 8V, 1.6L, 5 sp, 4wd, 2dr, conv, CAMI, horribly rusty
'97 Suzuki Vitara 8v, 1.6L 5 sp, 4wd, 2dr, tintop, horribly purple
'61 NSU Quickly - 150mpg
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom G View Post
Alright i have a 1992 tracker, we were driving it home and it started loosing power and died. We have not been able to get it to even sputter since. we have read almost every post on this topic so here goes the specs.
We have spark (kind of orangy not blue or white)
We have fuel( looks like a consistent cone shaped mist)
We have compression. (last we checked)
We have replaced the following
ecm - rebuilt
coil - new
cap - new
rotor - new
plugs - new
wires - new
and ignition module - new

the injector sprays as it should so we think.
it cranks over just fine doesn't seem abnormal in any way.
We have checked the timing belt.
fuel pump is working fine. builds pressure.. however it will stop pumping even if the line is disconnected and cannot build pressure?
(what line are are you fiddling here.)


Whats left? ?If anyone has a suggestions feel free to post we want it running again! Thanks in advance.

WHAT MOTOR 8v or 16v ?
1 or more of your tests were wrong. for sure.

it sounds like you are guessing, and not diagnosing
and that your tests are faulty or completely wrong. ( i have no idea)

all we know is motor is flooding. and spark may be weak.

I say this because all your comments lack hard data
EG: my battery is charged and i have 12.6v at the cig lighter , key on.
EG: my compression was 170psi on all 4 cylinders.
EG: my fuel pressure measured 32psi. (missing)
EG: I have spark on all 4 cylinders and at the coil output lead. 5 tests
EG: the CEL glows at key on.
EG: the Timing light when attached strobes near 0-5deg (left) cranking.
(if ignition timing is bad, the cam belt slipped. or worse.

have you fiddled the distributor or cam belt on the engine,
unbolted the DISTY?
touched the Timing belt.
or did our sneak-a-peak tests.

How to Sneak a peak


your car just died. (spark must be good and timed correctly or dont proceed)
1: can be bad fuel?
2: so lets forget fuel, (we use OUR fuel)
A; get the sparks dry. (lots of ways, take them out and dry them)
B: pull the fuel pump relay.
C: crank motor over after spraying test fuel into the EVAP nipple for 3 seconds. (
d: if motor starts and goes verrrrrrooooommmm and stops. its a good motor
if in fact it does that and sound NORMAL.


last
if the engines compression is low
and the cam looks perfectly timed
the crank key is stripped.
last 2. if the cat converter is melted the engine can fail to ever start again.
remove the 02 sensor and now the exh is relieved, and motor will start.
and have about 1/4 power , for sure it will idle.

cheers.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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want to start over, i recommend we reboot.
order.

1: check battery voltage as per above, and method.
2: check all fuses.
3: check the CEL glows key on.
4: does ECU flash 12 with diagnostic connector jumpered. (no? then ECU is bad)
5: is spark good and timed correctly.
6: does test fuel work? (spark good, and motor dry, (fuel pump relay pulled)

this is a good 6 point test set.

the last test must pass, or we go a totally different path.

big hint.

i remove the rear tail light (left) and pull that big connector with the pink wire.
this kills fuel pumping for good.
then you can crank motor with throttle wide open
and UNFLOOD the motor.
once unflooded, (it might start and die )
you can then do step 6
note we are using our very own quality test fuel here.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sorry for the missing data just trying to get some answers so thx again. and it is an 8v. we have proper compression.(will check again for good luck) haven't check fuel psi (yet). and I will check to 12v to the cig lighter with key on. much of this i was unsure to check but now that you listed i will test all of this and get back to you.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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pressure ok to me means nothing.
i need numbers.

we have ppl put finger in spark hole spin motor and proclaim , compression is ok.
dang. if i can help them.

do the compression test at WOT.
sparks out.
full battery.
or its just a waste of time.

my web pages shows every step. if you read stickypost 1, it shows that.

there can be no progress.
with out data.
and tests
and order.
those 6 steps, may put you on track, with little work.

hint3
id not run any tracker (new to shop or bad)
unless it checked the 17mm crank bolt,(front)
no way.
id read the TSB on that,and make dang sure it was over 50lbs/ft
and then after confirming where it was, set it to 94lbs/ft (new revised in 96 spec)
if the torque on was found to be below 50lbs. id panic.

a sheared key is only discoverable by. (beside no start , flooding or horrible power, or pinging)
1: low compression.
2: eyes on key.
3: fancy TDC finding tool.

ignition timing will look perfect. and is NOT. (nor is cam)

Last edited by autotune; 03-16-2011 at 01:06 PM.
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