From Rhinoman
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C48 should be 100nF, an incorrest value won't stop the ECU from powering up but is likely to give you n oise problems. The PCB is four-layer but its unlikely that the problem is caused by damage to the inner layers, you most likely still have a bad track or damaged via. Sometimes the damage is underneath the connector so you need to test all the tracks for continuity. The 5V reference is generated by an emitter follower circuit using the upright TO220 PNP transistor, I forget its number - its in the centre of the PCB.
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Thanks Rhinoman,
I was indeed guessing that my C48 was too little value.......
to follow your indication I need more details as on the center of the board there two positions called Q105 and Q104 but they are NC.......could you please explain better?

To be clear, from the pinout description on David ECU repairing page, I have understood that this board is powered through power (+12V) on pin B1, B7 and B9 and GND on pin B2 and B10. Just to be sure is that correct?

Regarding the connector acid spils, do you have some experience, that plugging and unplugging the board connectors (which require a huge force especially to unplug them) could then happen to definitely damage an underneath connector pad already acid damaged?

Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

 

Regarding the connector acid spils, do you have some experience, that plugging and unplugging the board connectors (which require a huge force especially to unplug them) could then happen to definitely damage an underneath connector pad already acid damaged?

Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

Sometimes the acid can leech underneath the connector. There is also one track under the connector that is vulnerable to damage from overloads. I have seen a few ECUs that have been badly 'repaired' and it has caused that track to blow.

 

I have no Mitsubishi cross-references, and there are no official lists , and any there are , are incomplete.

that page is not david's it's my sorry page.

see post 37 , that post shows , what was sold and by whom and all you need to replace that ECU.

the 60Axx suffix is CARB.

 

http://kick-fix.com/ECU/ECU.html


see new 5vdc vref and main power, drawings, added.

 

acid , well all i can say , is it does come in degrees.

and can be quite bad. horrible in some cases.

H3LL'sh
even eats up all traces under corner main cap , main power. gone. i have photos of how to correct that, i save all shared here, in a pool. a pool of acid, ahahahahaha

 

be aware, Suz and GM use diff pin numbers

A1 = B1

not hard to figure.

 

Thanks alot kick-fix
for all the information!

Sorry, for the ECU repair page.....if it is yours, you have done a brilliant job!

Luckly my ECM is not so much acid damaged (at least visible) compared
with the board in your photo.

Btw do you know which one is the emitter follower which generates the 5V reference which Rhinoman was talking about?

The problem is: if the board is a 4-layer type, is very difficult to understand
correctly all the connectios I shall have....and then hard to test them even
with good digital multimiter......

any chances for an ECM schematic? of part of it.....at least the part which handle the main power to catch the broken connection.....it is a pitty as this ECU it looks still healty.......

back to test.....

Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

 

Thanks Rhino....
do you mean underneath the B-green 17-pin connector? or underneath the A one with 24-pin?

As before my modification the board was yes crazy, but still alive, this hypothetical "wanted" track has become interrupted after my modification.....still I can't realize how come, as I have used professional solder set with maximum highest controlled temperature of +325 Celsius degree and I have soldered billions of boards down to microscopic sizes in my life...........so I know hot to solder.....however, never say never....

I guess the best way to remove the board connector, it would be hot-air solder set right? (which I do not have available at the moment)......and with poor metalization via-holes of this 12-years old board, I dont want to take more risk to brake dipped layer connection if any......maybe if you have more details I will manage to check it without to unsolder them.....

About the 5V reference, any chance you could remeber the position number of this involved transistor?

Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

 

I guess the best way to remove the board connector, it would be hot-air solder set right? (which I do not have available at the moment)......and with poor metalization via-holes of this 12-years old board, I dont want to take more risk to brake dipped layer connection if any......maybe if you have more details I will manage to check it without to unsolder them.....

About the 5V reference, any chance you could remeber the position number of this involved transistor?

Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

I have used a hand held solder sucker in the past, you just need to be careful and patient, a proper vacuum tool is better. I don't remember the number of the transistor. I have about 20 ECUs in the workshop at the moment, I'm sure that there are a couple of early 8V ECUS in there, I will have a look later.

 

give the number on the ECU connector

take off lid
see number like
44271t2?

 

if

whats your red line

and we find out. its a E22

4 door. finally the door count.

and its a CAMI, made car, really important that......

 

if you id ECU , i bet we can find one.
/QUOTE]

JE331B604A is the PCB number, first post.

 

what is your ECU pn the real Suz ECU pn sticker on bottom left side if ECU base.?????

on ours USA we use (56b30/40), (MT and AT, respectively)

my ECU dead page shows the 5vdc lay out. just added.

 

Hello again guys,
here there is my board.....Rhino is right, on my first post there was the part number, which is indeed JE331B604A.

I will find more information about the car specs kick-fix is requiring. So far the type of the car, engine, and other... is classified under the short paper given by the Suzuki help desk for mechanics in italy (where the car is now) which is:

Suzuki Vitara 1.6i (G16A) 1991-1998 | MPI, 1996 manual change with immobilizer and EGR step system.

More info will come later....

About the Q100, on my board is not on the center of the layout, but on the transitor heat sink (first one on left side on my attached pic...)...

Thanks alot for the moment.....

Cheers
Eon

 

your car is NOT AN MPI , its IS A TBI

not multpoint INJECTION not even close.

this is the real suz tag , and as stated in all EPCs

course not US mark. other. the EPC uses the 33920 numbers exclusively. ww. your looks identical to mine.

if you have an IMMO ON THE CAR , i can not help you or advise you.

you need body tag, ECU tag and if car is IMMO equipped.?
to service any Suzuki proper

 

Sorry Kick,
the metal cover of the ECU is clear...nothing on, simply the Suzuki logo....
that's it....it doesnt even look like someone removed that in the past.....no
glue traces on it.....

The engine type at least here in Italy is coded as G16A, not sure if this could
be useful....

Could I help on finding some other info about the car?

Cheers
Eon

 

that sticker bad is , molestation or water damage from broken windshield, stock the car came with clear plastic water shield above ECU.

complete, i think

 

no tags no help.

 

Ok Kick....
thanks alot for those informations....

I will need to check again the board patiently and come back with conclusions....I ll let you know.......

however, in case this ECU is definitely gone the PN board I need to check for
is ether the 56B30 or the 56B40....right?

do u also sell those boards? of any site-recommendation you could suggest?

Thanks alot.

Cheers
Eon

 

lots of zuks, lots of parts.
made, in many countries.

Japan, Cami.com canada, Hungary, Spain, etc.....

the body tag is the only answer. period.

 

id never own any old KICK?VIT with no spare ecu, no way.

not me. and are dirt cheap.

$1600 new + tax
now $50-100, such a deal.

 

the , cars in your region can come from
all over the world, with out the TAG data. you car is "nebulas"

not all assembley plants configure all cars of same year the same way .
28 types ww, and 1 more JDM in japan.

please find your body tag and post it.

 

and for sure i cant cross Mitsubishi numbers.
never heard of anyone who could, "someone retired at Mitsu?"

oops, rhinoman can.... ok

 

i need to ID the car.

as i said , there are a huge number 29 of diff VITS running in europe.

that being said, neck far out.....

56B30 is IS TBI MT
56B40 is is TBI AT
and uses our (USA) kind of distributor.

does yours look like mine and it does have a 56B pn on side of disty or the like
see the tag , that tag has the Suz, pn on it, ours does.

see all photos ,all are USA 91 8v

 

Definately NOT a 56B40, the Mitsu number on the PCB doesn't match the sticker. It maybe a 56B30 but that PCB was used on a number of variants worldwide. The Mitsu number defines the software and the configuration, I'll have a check in my records later and see if I can match up it up to a Suzuki part number.

 

odd how ECU is missing factory sticker
and car has no Chassis tag,, odd.

 

The Mitsu number cross references to a 33920-56B70, same ECU family but its an EC Manual Transmission specification.

 

same as mine the Mitsu number but we dont have B70 here.
only up to b61 here.
ill look up that in the EU., yes, I see it. F6 searches.

mine with same MITSU pn is b30 or b40 , if forget which, i stripped it so bad.

ok only shows up 2 times B70 in the EPC, as 2dor and 4door type 2 motor. B81 is A/t version and my work for you.

Both times SE series. e1 to 99 skips usa.


Se416

 

same as mine the Mitsu number but we dont have B70 here.

The picture you posted clearly shows a different number. I think that you're confusing the part number of the assembled board with the part number of the bare PCB.