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Old 02-07-2010, 10:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default over cooling? new2me

hopefully i can get help on this one. ive googled n ended up here so many times. okay-97 sidekick sport 1.8 jlx 4x4 standard trans.Yes,the trickykick. had a bad radiator.had to wait a few months 2 replace. not too bad,just kept up with water level in overflow and rad. anyway,new radiator,new hoses,new thermostat-yes,with proper seal and hole aligned with mark(up). pump is good,blades are fine.flushed system by rushing water through upper hose til ran clear out pump.then again thru pump til clear constant flow out upper tube.process repeated. after all cleaned n connected,filled with 50/50 mix,ran,got warm(halfway on gauge).turned heat on,gauge dropped just a bit.good! made sure rad full,capped n drove.gauge dropped to C.not good! next day had thermo replaced-originally used a "failsafe"-whatever! supposed to lock open when too hot. that wasnt problem. replaced with original type. then again. SAme problem. so i checked previous posts. im so used to bleeder valves.well,not on this 1. i parked uphill.rad high.got hot,let cool,opend cap,relased any air,topped off,watched for bubbles-repeated over n over.-still,same. shoulda just replaced radiator n left all else alone. so what its doing now.at idle,temp perfect,halfway on gauge. start driving,normal then slowly drop to C.quicker if freeway driving. come to a stop-gauge slowly goes back to normal. under the hood(no ir gun btw) upper hose gets hot,top of radiator gets hot,engine hot(duh). lower hose cool if not cold. can squeeze both heatercore hoses and it does push water at rad opening.so waters flowing thru all hoses. any ideas? Jerry? anyone
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeze View Post
hopefully i can get help on this one. ive googled n ended up here so many times. okay-97 sidekick sport 1.8 jlx 4x4 standard trans.Yes,the trickykick. had a bad radiator.had to wait a few months 2 replace. not too bad,just kept up with water level in overflow and rad. anyway,new radiator,new hoses,new thermostat-yes,with proper seal and hole aligned with mark(up). pump is good,blades are fine.flushed system by rushing water through upper hose til ran clear out pump.then again thru pump til clear constant flow out upper tube.process repeated. after all cleaned n connected,filled with 50/50 mix,ran,got warm(halfway on gauge).turned heat on,gauge dropped just a bit.good! made sure rad full,capped n drove.gauge dropped to C.not good! next day had thermo replaced-originally used a "failsafe"-whatever! supposed to lock open when too hot. that wasnt problem. replaced with original type. then again. SAme problem. so i checked previous posts. im so used to bleeder valves.well,not on this 1. i parked uphill.rad high.got hot,let cool,opend cap,relased any air,topped off,watched for bubbles-repeated over n over.-still,same. shoulda just replaced radiator n left all else alone. so what its doing now.at idle,temp perfect,halfway on gauge. start driving,normal then slowly drop to C.quicker if freeway driving. come to a stop-gauge slowly goes back to normal. under the hood(no ir gun btw) upper hose gets hot,top of radiator gets hot,engine hot(duh). lower hose cool if not cold. can squeeze both heatercore hoses and it does push water at rad opening.so waters flowing thru all hoses. any ideas? Jerry? anyone
You know - maybe, just maybe - if you took the time to punctuate properly, someone might be able to understand what you wrote, and might be able to help.

But after two tries - I just gave up and moved on....
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ah, good to have Tibetan monk on forum who has great patience.....From muddling through the above, it would seem that you advise that everything works as it should (car heats up, hoses hot, no air lock in radiator, good heat from heater, etc). So, what is left? Ah, the gauge. Or the temperature sending unit. Both of these can be checked electrically. The temperature sending unit works off of ohms/resistance, and this resistance is supposed to change at various temps (the lower the temp, the higher the resistance). Have you checked these??
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes punctuation is good .
The only thing I question is where you bought your t stat at? On my old 96 sport I had to go with OEM Suzuki T stat for things to work properly but I am only guessing cause I'm with fordem,my head hurts. Please go back and edit post Please.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good point Bex, I would like to know how warm the air is that is coming out of the interior heater. The guage or sender could be the culprit.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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read my frigid kick page it covers every fail for this.

in this year, it is putingin in shallow well stat on a deep well intake manifold
this will cause the coolant to bypass the stat. and run bad and get horrible mpg.


other is broken damper. on heatr core
other is core clogged because never diong proper flushings if system every 2 years as the book says.



assume fans spins.
assume not mnus 40c out side.

like my sig link, the see overheating and then see over cooling above.

hope you get heat soon.

cheers.

from the 90km marker , S.Peru. internet cafe.
happy trails


sorry for typos lost reading glasses.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well,as long as ive been on this forum,i didnt realize i would get an "F" for grammar.damn that online degree! If i must explain myself to those ive never heard of,om on via text/phone in moving car-limited puntuations. as for the cooling,thanks kickfix.havin fun? im trying to avoid heater core. I am going to replace both heater core hoses and run water through to check for blockage. the thermostat in now is about identical to the one i originally replaced(no problems before replacing it). now,oddly enough today the gauge didnt really drop much. was thinkin maybe everything just needed to flow through the system a while, i guess. But thanks again for advice.gotta wait till weekend to tinker with it more.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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btw- heater works great when gauge at norm- halfway point. i do notice very low heat when gauge drops to C
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you can pound in the words with and old ASR33 teletype or using , blind translators as
many americans with vision or other disablities do. you are welcome here.

questions.
1- what is out side temps
2- what is rim size under the stat housing, pull stat cover and stat, see rim lip
a-4mm needs rubber surround o'ring type seal and no flat paper gasket
b- 1mm rim needs only paper gasket.
this has to be correct.

make sure clutch fan is not seized.
engine off make sure you can spin fan and it feels like its in warm butter.
slight friction.
that is it.

happy trails.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks kickfix.i got a new fan clutch,have bee told for some time to replace it. your suggestion about it, it spins with engine off.not freely,but it spins. the stat,yup,rubber gasket(replaced 3 times,3 different parts chains). cant imagine 3 different stats causing same symptoms. i tried the trick of cardboard in front of radiator-gauge stayed at 1/2 no real drop(beautiful!).but dont wanna drive like that forever. temp here in west texas,upper 50s. now,i purchased new pump. lookin through my repair book,it states water pump AND stat housing as 1 unit must be removed.is that true? i fear possibly no flow. thatd b simple enough. also may replace ECTsensor. just odd how replacing stat and radiator could lead to much more problems.but hey,no more leaks. ill make sure theres no restrictions,replace these parts,and let you know how it does. and,itll be happy trails when i can stop staring at my gauge, haha.
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