94 tracker head problems

[memturbo]

I recently got a 94 tracker with a 16v engine

the guy told me he bought it off a guy and it had a head gasket leak

he took off the head to find the guy for some reason added nuts to the

headbolts where the washers were and as a result the bolts broke part

of the recess where the washer sets in .

I got the truck with the head removed and saw the damage to the recess

and checked the head for any cracks and warpage but it was fine.

I ordered new bolts and head gasket and installed the head

changed the oil and before I added water I started it up

and it ran great later I added antifreeze and then started it up

and after a minute or so I noticed the water was gone

I checked the oil and it was full of water.

Now my question is could the broken recesses on the top of the

head allow water to pass thru the bolts and enter the engine ?

If so do you think I can carefully grind down the head bolt stops till

there flat and see if that would stop the leaking ?


Thanks for the help

[kick-fix]

head pressure test.
never use antifreeze in any motor until it passes the pressure test for at leat 10 mile of hard driving. no reason every to use antifreeze on new motor work.
now the oil is contaminated as may be cat con and o2 sensor.

never put them at risk unless absolutely necessary (panic, etc, or freezing arce out side)

not sure of this head bolt thing, really weird and 1st time ever any forum ive seen.

a photo of the damage would have answered 1000 questions.

the water stays in the block unless its cracked or leaks to outside. then....
and
the water stays in the head unless the head gasket is bad or it is cracked or leaks to the outside.
there is no path from the water jackets to the pan. (save cracked block/cracked head)
sorry none.

well , a small one.
a leak from the intake ports, (or Intake man cracked/gasket) into intake valves and down the ring gaps.
this is trickle not a flood.

tell me, did you followed all the std tests of any head off car.?
warp check with steel rule criss cross and the feeler gauge for max warp( spec is in fsm)?
and flat block deck check? same way.?

i bet he [PO] didnt want stock head bolts (cheapo) and put in Ace hardware cheese bolts and wrong size and type. ( this bolts run hot ,dont you now an must be correct kind)
that be my first guess. sorry if obvious.

are you in miami or in Alaska.?

just a hint of this ,can really help.

your head is cracked.
the block is cracked.
or head and or block is warped. ( assumes good bolts staged down per fsm)

ask machine shop to pressure test the head (cheap) you can do at home for gross leaks, not hard to do. plug some holes and blow.
look in cyl ,bores for cracks (move crank, bright lights) , head off fill jacket with tap water, and just keep checking pan.
one can drain oil , keep pan drain plug off, then fill block and come back in 1 hour, see if water on floor. (crude but if it does, wow ,wasnt that easy and cheap)

one guy cracked (here) the block , above all main bearinsg and it was a water fall down ot the pan from the main water jackets. hopeless case.

we have photos. of damage , it is common, ppl dont remember to freeze check coolant before hard winter , lose a good motor. a $2 antifeeze hydrometer, wow.

you in Corps Cristi or ? NOME. ( i my mind , i wonder if he lives in freeze zones)

[memturbo]

Where can I get the freeze plugs from ?

Also Im form semo the truck came from tn.

Here is the washer damage I was talking about .


[IMG][/IMG]

[kick-fix]

id get the freeze plug from suz.
then measure it very carefully before subing it out.
or measure the hole with knife edge calipers and talk to the shop or any pro auto store.
machine shop is best , they have tables.
there are tables on line for that too. (very critical to fit perfect)


you didnt say what plug, so i cant look it up.
so front head plug is.

09241-30009

there is an inside head plug too.
bolt head surfaces:
that damage in minor, can be cleaned up no prob.
how, or how is the question.
if it were mine and didnt have a tank to clean it with....
id take it to a machine shop or head shop and ask the to mill them flat again.
they need to be so , so that it will hold the torque for the next 200k. miles.


so yours is no freeze damage but rust out.
ok, good news. truly.
freeze has no limits.

[memturbo]

well its the inside head plug you can see in

the 2nd picture its missing

what is the number for that ?

I havent found a suzuki dealer in my area so where exactly could I purchase


the plug online ?

Thanks for the help

[kick-fix]

yes,
you want part. ( ah shucks , here is the dwg .sorry so slow)

https://www.trademotion.com/partloca...?siteid=214330


they are down, strangely, rare !!!

he has good prices and you can order online see parts and Keith reads his mail.
A+++ operation.

sing:
(to mr ED song)
a host is host , of course of course and no one can talk to a host of course
unless , it's busy , hung or dead. DING !

server downs.

[Brock]

I see from that .pdf file, those are the head bolts I am having trouble with on my project. Could you tell me what you used to remove them?

[kick-fix]

short answer: (used ?)
go to Sears and ask for the tools.

long:
many cars have internal hex key head bolts.
they sell a kit of 3/8" metrix hex key sockets for you ratchet.
i cant remember the size, but some are 8mm.

most mechs have a set of these.

you missing this from your collection?

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

if you find the size (insert an 8mm bolt head in to the socket see if it fits)
if too loose? try 10mm headed bolt, ahhhhhh
or use a ruler, measure in fractions. (if no mm rule)
then convert fraction to decimal
8mm is slightly less than 3/8" (.375 ) or
8mm is exactly .315 inches. >>>> 8/25.4 (/= divide)
i use calipers to do many jobs. measure and muliply by 25.4 and bingo ,metric.
but my buddy has dual digital inch,metric caliper. some just hate to do math.
you can down load charts.
what ever makes it easier for you .

so , if it IS 8mm then a trip to sears and $10 later a single 8mm hex socket.


car is 100% metric. (it really was designed by Suzuki)

[Brock]

It's not a hex key bolt. That was one of my first guesses when I saw it, but after cleaning off all the sludge, I can safely say that it is not.
I used a digital caliper on the outside diameter of the head and found 10.5mm

[kick-fix]

the shop manual shows no special tools for head bolts. ( but they assume a std shop tools as base line which includes female hex heads and torx)

id buy a whole new set.
head bolts after a while, are no good after 1000's of thermal cycles.
they loose there stretchability . most pro shops will never use them due to warranty failures that happen due to this fact. No forever bolts here.

the parts list shows 10 bolts and repeats them 2 times with diff pn.
so there are diff. bolts , diffr years.
my 96 , has diff. pn from 92-95 so i cant look for you . (in my 96)


the most likely are hex and torxs bolts.

after a certain body vin (sn field 640,000_) they changed bolts.
so without VIN , cant order head bolts.



a photo will , result in 1000 replies. or a 1000 words, ?
i bet.

but vin # tells the story for sure, if motor was not swapped .

they are mush room heads on some motors.
see below

this can be zoomed to great detail