Need help with engine that won't run - Page 2

keithert · 10-28-2009, 10:05 PM

Tonight I went to do the compression test but first I just tried to start it. It started within a second of turning the key. I ran it for 30 seconds and then turned it off and restarted it. It started even faster this time. Then I proceeded to do the compression test. Front to back my readings were 165/170/165/180 with the engine cold and at WOT. No codes were stored either. I then attempted to start it after doing the compression test. This time it bucked a bit but did start. When doing the test I did not pull the fuel pump fuse because I couldn't find it. So when starting after the test the intake was full of fuel. After getting it running I drove it for a mile and a half. The only issue was that if I revved it above 2000 rpm while the engine was not fully warmed up it would attempt to die. One difference today is that the weather is dryer than it has been. Does that point to maybe just needing new plugs, wires and maybe coil, cap and rotor? Once warmed up it ran well even when revving up.

I am relieved that the issue does not appear to be timing related. I wasn't comfortable with going into the timing belt.

Bex · 10-29-2009, 10:29 AM

I'm no mechanic but problem may have been started by your experiment of water + electricity. So it could be just that whatever got damp needs time to dry. I remember similar issues in boating - if boat sunk in fresh water (with battery connected) you just needed to be patient for a few days for all to dry off, then everything ok. (If in salt water with battery connected, just watch all wires melt - electrolysis I think they call it...lovely). Hopefully your engine/wires will dry out, all will be well, and you will be left once again with squeaky alternator (and a lesson learned...)

Bex · 10-29-2009, 11:00 AM

Back to squeaky alternator...FSM says noise may be caused by a loose drive pulley, loose mounting bolts, worn or dirty bearings or defective stator. 'A high frequency whine (or magnetic noise) that is heard at full output is acceptable and should not be considered an alternator failure.
Well, that's what it says....Also says alternator does not require periodic lubrication and that it is permanently lubricated.

Richard Craneum · 10-29-2009, 11:48 AM

If you go to Auto Zone you can get the Rotor and Cap for about $8 a piece. Sprak Plugs Bosch Platinum (single point) is $1.99 a plug (beats the OEM and last up to 100,000 miles). The Wires I recommend the Delco OEM, you can get them at Advance Auto Parts for about $29.00 (JTGH knows what happen to me with a crappy running Tracker).

I used the Duralast brand from Auto Zone ($20) and the car ran like crap (bucking, missing, gutless, ran poorly under loads, missing, rough idle, etc...). Could be a bad batch or some else, who knows. The fact is that I replaced them for OEM AC Delco and that was the end of the story.

Richard Craneum · 10-29-2009, 11:55 AM

Here is my lengthy thread, I hope it helps....

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ough-idle.html

keithert · 10-29-2009, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Craneum

If you go to Auto Zone you can get the Rotor and Cap for about $8 a piece. Sprak Plugs Bosch Platinum (single point) is $1.99 a plug (beats the OEM and last up to 100,000 miles). The Wires I recommend the Delco OEM, you can get them at Advance Auto Parts for about $29.00 (JTGH knows what happen to me with a crappy running Tracker).

I used the Duralast brand from Auto Zone ($20) and the car ran like crap (bucking, missing, gutless, ran poorly under loads, missing, rough idle, etc...). Could be a bad batch or some else, who knows. The fact is that I replaced them for OEM AC Delco and that was the end of the story.

I bought plugs, cap & rotor and wires today from NAPA. It was the most convenient. I'll report back on how it runs after I install tonight. It is supposed to be very wet tomorrow so that will be a good test.

Bex · 10-29-2009, 02:59 PM

Fingers crossed and good luck!!

keithert · 10-29-2009, 10:18 PM

This afternoon I put on the new plugs, wires and cap and rotor. The vehicle stared and ran fine but it was dry out. 4 hours later it was raining very steadily. It again started and ran fine with no alternator squeal. I drove it about a mile both times with no issues. I'm not confident enough to take it to work tomorrow (65 mile round trip) but I'll drive it over the weekend and get my confidence in it up. The old plugs had gaps of more than twice the new plugs (.032) and they were the same kind of plugs. It looked like both the electrode and the anode had worn down. What is the effect of having a huge plug gap?

Richard Craneum · 10-30-2009, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithert

What is the effect of having a huge plug gap?

Undesireable performance.

The thing is, the wider the gap the more energy need the electrons to move from one point to the other. If is too close or too far, the spark is not as strong (hot). Therefore, the fuel is not burn at the rate that it should or does not burns at all.

CodyJ · 10-30-2009, 12:19 PM

I bet I know what happened. I've had odd experiences with what I call "power lagg" in wet conditions when this happens to me ah.

A worn cap/rotor... condensation got under that seal it has and viola -- you aren't going to make a good contact. Along with maybe worn spark plugs/wires that won't help any either! Look under the hood to find the spark plug gap: the tool is $.99 at AdvancedAutoParts.