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Old 10-21-2009, 11:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How hard to change Timing Belt

Hi guys, I have a 92 4 Door Sidekick, 16V, Auto, and no A/C. Just wondering how hard it would be to change the Timing Belt? I have looked at the DIY's and it doesn't look that easy.. Just wondering if i should attempt to do it myself, or just pay somebody. Also how much do you think is reasonable for a shop to change out the Timing belt and water pump?

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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once everything is off it doesn't seem to bad. The only reason i havent done it myself is the crankshaft pulley keyway issue. I have heard that some guys just cut the old one off and pound the new belt on? but that IMO is like getting dental work done without novicane.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bean.counter View Post
Hi guys, I have a 92 4 Door Sidekick, 16V, Auto, and no A/C. Just wondering how hard it would be to change the Timing Belt? I have looked at the DIY's and it doesn't look that easy.. Just wondering if i should attempt to do it myself, or just pay somebody. Also how much do you think is reasonable for a shop to change out the Timing belt and water pump?

Thanks
The job can be made with a modest set of tools.

The problem is...

Do you have time?
How savvy are you?

The special tools (torque wrenches and other doo-dahs) can be rented at Auto Zone for nothing (just leave a deposit so you will return the tool) for as long as you want it.
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you aren't to far away I could give you a hand.
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Thanks for all the info here.
95 Sidekick 4 door 16valve 5spd 225000kms
Rebuilt at 223000kms 235 tires.
The rest is stock.
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yes , cut belt and pound on new one, seen it.
the shop that does that?, and charges flat rate ,is a crook.

the 16v is easy.
if all you do is that. and the idler,id not skip that, on any 16v.

on thing that makes it hard is the A/C condensor conn. and the A/C connections.
i f neither , then its a breeze.

leave the crank Big nut alone, if car runs perfect.
do set the torque to 94lb/ft , step 1, if it turns as you do it, say to self ,just made it perfect.

take off the pulley and leave the big bolt alone.

(wanting to look is a big desire, i looked and was glad i did)

just start at TDC #4 , take it down. put it back.
rotate 2 turns CW.
set spring stud to spec torque.
set ilder to spec torque.

then button up.

nothing more need to be done.

as you know ,many change all seals and pump.
but that is not a requirement.

and many shops will do the mininum anyway.
after all they are wanting to cut a fat hog.

i had a youtube of one guy cutting belt vertically , then removing the outer loop
then pounding on , new belt 1/2 way ,then cutting the old loop and then pounding on the new belt rest of way.
this is crazy but have see 2 guys do it like a dance.
one spins crank other with razor sharp , box cutter.

it is a good laugh.


PS a bad pump can cause its pulley to rip in to the cover and then the Tbelt and wreck a good motor. (interference it is)
but if you cut the IGN key at the bad sound. all is well but some ppl will just keep driving.
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I just replaced my water pump and in the process had to take timing belt off. Now that im trying to put it back together the tentioner plate is rubbing on the timing belt. There is a bolt behind it thats in the way. Idk but i must have messed it up somewhere.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok,
when you took off the tensioner, you put it back wrong
you need to put it back so the spring moves plate;which in turn ,moves the idler pulley.

this spring is the only thing that sets tension (after, it does nothing)
the tension rocker plate has a tang, and this tang MUST be aligned to the back side of the idler pulley perfectly.

or it all jams up.

the tension is a critical step that determines the total life of the belt.

that piece looks simple and is but has a trick. look behind that idler , real careful
see the slot. , match that slot up with the tang.



yours is wider but the tang below is visible. at end of part 7

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Old 10-27-2009, 09:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bean.counter View Post
Hi guys, I have a 92 4 Door Sidekick, 16V, Auto, and no A/C. Just wondering how hard it would be to change the Timing Belt? I have looked at the DIY's and it doesn't look that easy.. Just wondering if i should attempt to do it myself, or just pay somebody. Also how much do you think is reasonable for a shop to change out the Timing belt and water pump?

Thanks
I just had my belt/tensioner changed for the first time at 155,000km. It was in good condition, but decided to change it anyway since it had gone twice the recommended distance. The A/C is left in place while the work is done, and the total shop time was 4.5 hours. Total cost: Ca$680.00 (about US$650), using new parts from Lordco. Had it back the same day. BTW, various Lordco Tracker parts are an incredible bargain compared to factory parts.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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$650 for just a belt? ouch.
btw the FSM clearly says, how to set the part 7 above.

says in nut shell.
insert idler into the proper back side slot and then all together on to pump/block.
the wiggle the part 7,
Quote:
"does part 7 move in direct portion to idler 5?"
if not, DO IT OVER till it does.

16v does not need valves loosened.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you don't know much about engines the mechanic is the way to go. Too many things can go wrong along the way to tackle it if you are not experienced.

Nadeem
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