Engine ID

[mashaffer]

Newbie checking in here. I just picked up a 1995 Geo Tracker 2wd 5 spd. The PO had no idea when the timing belt was last changed on this 144k mi vehicle. So I think it prudent to change the timing belt.

I have done some research and apparently this year may have either the 8v or 16v. If it is 16v then the whole mess appears much more difficult, more critical, and more expensive as water pump would probably best be replaced. So... With out removing the valve cover, how do I determine which engine I have? Knowing my luck it is probably the valve smasher.

mike

[ranger88den]

8v spark plug holes are on the side of the head, 16v has spark plug holes are thru the top of the valve cover and should say 16 valve on the valve cover.

[relicduke]

My '96 has "16 valve"on the belt cover

[mashaffer]

Originally Posted by ranger88den

8v spark plug holes are on the side of the head, 16v has spark plug holes are thru the top of the valve cover and should say 16 valve on the valve cover.

Ooh, I may have lucked out then. My recollection is the plugs on the side. This would be good as I spent almost everything just getting the vehicle so I need to do the timing belt as cheaply as possible. Is it recommended to get the full kit with tensioner too? At least I don't have to replace the water pump just yet and I am less likely to ruin the engine if I make a mis-step.

So far I am really liking this car. Has been raining so I haven't been able to take the top off yet but it is still kind of like driving a dune buggy.

Thanks guys.

mike

[fordem]

Do the tensioner as well - if it fails it can destroy the new belt - it's cheap insurance.

[mashaffer]

Thanks Fordem, I will take that approach. It has been a while since I have owned a car worth fixing right.

mike

[kick-fix]

motor id.

how-to-find-EFI-parts


if the belt is 144k and the pump is 144k
just a fast looks tells one , its over the 70-90k range and is soon to fail.

the logic of this is , if doing a belt at 90k as many drag it out to , then why not replace the pump. its right there and easy as pie to do.
but taking out a factory pump and putting in a china rebuild might be not work out.

144k is lots of miles on any pump, belt and idler. way too many ,if true.

the 8v is Single point TBI injector motor, the 16v,is MPI , multipoint injectors x4.

the 8v says in fsm, to relax the valve-lifters, so belt tension can be set.

so on an 8v , a new gasket for VC (no, not viet cong) is in order. ahahahah



cheers.

[fordem]

In a "cash tight" situation I'd skip the pump - from my point of view, it's simply a matter of time because this is the sort of thing I do in the driveway, and if what we're looking at is a couple of hours on a weekend then I'd skip it - if you're paying someone else to do it, then yeah, go ahead and change it.

[relicduke]

I'm with Jerry,if you can swing it at all,money wise,do the pump,y'gotta take it off anyway.There's lots of advantages,only having to spill prestone on the driveway for the cat to lick up is only one.AND,if your luck is anything like mine,and you don't change it,it will fail twenty miles after you change the belt,you'll overheat the engine,blow a head gasket,and the engine bay will be sprayed with hot prestone when the top rad hose blows,eighty seven miles from anywhere.

[mashaffer]

I decided to get a carfax report just to see if there is any service history. It shows four owners. The original owner was a fleet lease company and they had it serviced at a Chevy dealer at 81,157 miles. No doubt this was triggered by the nag light. I would assume that a car serviced by the dealer at the time for a fleet owner would likely have had the timing belt changed. If so we are now due for one but not grossly over due so unlikely to break on the way to the auto parts store.

I want to buy parts locally if possible so I can get started right away. I have available NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto and O'Reilly. I am inclined to go with NAPA. What are you thoughts?

mike