Endless clutching and shifting issues

[4streegrrl]

Hi all

Lurker and first time poster here.

I own a 1997 Geo Tracker, 1.6 L engine, 5-speed, 2 door, 4WD, absolute base model. It is the first and only car I ever owned, purchased brand new 12 years ago. I drive it like I am a little old lady and I suppose I am getting there - I only recently hit 100,000 km on the odometer. I really, really like my car and I would like to keep it on the road as long as possible.

I have had very few problems with it until the last few months. My car has been in for clutch-related work multiple times: first a couple of cable adjustments, a new clutch switch, a total clutch replacement, straightening out and reinforcement of the rod to the clutch switch (it bent, twice), a new clutch cable, and just last week, back in for a cable adjustment. I've been assured that there should be no problems now.

But he was wrong. Since I went in for the last cable adjustment last week, the shifter has gotten really stiff and almost impossible to move, especially in first and second gear. I've got a serious case of Deja Vu and I don't like it.

However, I did notice today that when the ignition/engine is off, I have no problem shifting gears - very smooth. It is only when the ignition is on that I can barely move the shifter.

Please note that I have no mechanical skill at all, apart from checking my oil and changing my tires. I would, however, like to go into my mechanic one last time with a good, educated opinion on the problem so that he can fix it once and for all. I've given him a lot of money so far and he owes me a proper fix.

If anyone has any advice as to what could be the underlying issue, I would be most grateful for it. Thank you!

[Bex]

Sorry I can't be of much help (not too mechanical), but just trying to keep your post to the top, so someone will respond. I searched the forum and found the following answer from a similar situation. (There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this forum who have helped me with my Tracker on many occasions - I'm sure someone will answer) Following answer was for someone who had similar problem - can't shift when car on, but can when engine off:

CAN you start engine, in gear.?
what does cant mean, you actually cant or the grinding scares you (as it should)

it shifts stopped not running, all that tells, is that the tranny is not siezed up.

i do not under stand your symptoms.? sorry.

let me say this.
the clutch can do many things wrong, nut just slip or lock.
so lets get that out of the way.
lots more !

first off, set your clutch free play to spec. 1/2"
then see if it is ok.
inspect the cable end to end for damage. 5min it takes with a dropped cardboard on wet ground.

test 2
check that cable moves 1 inch as the page shows.
My clutch is sick what is wrong

if cable moves 1 inch, then clutch is bad, if it grinds or wont move.
Mindset:
my process , is from cheap to expensive, hoping all the way it is cheap.

if the cable dont move 1 inch , or more.
then the pedal /cable system is bad in the body. correct that , cheap.

if you find the clutch is bad,
then run it with no free play (1/2" is spec) set it to zero)
now does this help clutch action.
yes, bad clutch. but you have hidden the problem for 1 day to 1 month.
no , clutch is toast.

running zero play will destroy the throw-out bearing. (see photos)
but it allows the old throw out to push the clutch fingers, further.(illegally)

A bad pressure plate (loss of temper) will respond to illegal free play settings.
just for a while. and only some times. (imagine a spring that is old and heat damaged )

that is the whole point of my 1 inch rule.
it dont ever lie. (not in book but saves tons of grief ,huh)

if the clutch is good, then the tranny is bad. (it can be more complex)

when is that last time you drained it and gave it fresh fluid,
it is on the maint. tables.

many here pull the plug and out drains 17 year old gear lube
about 1/4'th the correct amount and looks like TAR.
and full of metal dust.;



failure modes.
cracked or warped disk, (no free play hide this too, sometimes)
warped Pressure plate, cracked PP, heavy scored PP)
cracked PP , springs, or warped or loss of temper.
disc hanging on spline. (for many a reason)_
spine scored.
bad pilot bearing will make car go with clutch pedal to floor.
bad throw out, can do all above and make lots of noise too.
the throwout can collapes and keep progressing.

the list is huge, and i have seem them all.
but no matter , use my 1 inch rule.

[Bex]

Also found this:

Clutch installed backwards or cable not adjusted.

I would think from what you have said that your mechanic did something wrong. I am kind of in the same boat (at the mercy of mechanics).

My suggestion here is to give every possible symptom you have. Like do gears grind? Can you get into reverse? Etc., etc. Give all clues so that someone can get to the cause of your problem.

[Rhinoman]

Its usually a problem with the cable, the cable is routed wrong or its of a poor quality. Other things to check are that the pedal isn't breaking along the top weld and that there are no cracks in the bulkhead, these are usually caused by running with a shifting problem for a prolonged period.
The cable adjustment is quite critical too, there should be 1mm of free play at the gearbox end.

[savwafare10]

I just bought a 92 geo tracker 1.6 8v 4wd 5spd. Put new clutch in. I noticed were the cable goes through the firewall someone had to reinforce the tin around it. It was all cracked out. If the mechanics keep adjusting it then somethings wrong. I read in another post that china built clutch cable suck. Stands to reason. Anyway I have seen this type of fatigue in other imports that use cable instead of hydrolic type. I know for a fact Luk clutch products work very well. Hope this helps, hard to tell without seeing. by the way,the way someone reinforced it was with a 1inch by 3inch .25inch thick steel strap. seems to hold very well.....sofar