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Old 09-20-2009, 09:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HELP! Removed driveshaft, now engine won't start!

Yesterday i was investigating a noise coming from my car so i decided i would pull it into my garage and investigate by removing my rear driveshaft and checking the u-joints for any play. It started up fine and i pulled my car into the garage and checked the u-joints. After i reinstalled the driveshaft i went to move my car back into the driveway and my car will turn over but it wont start. My only guess is that it might be a bad fuel pump but i am having a hard time believing that because its a big coincidence that it would happen while i am checking my u-joints. I was wondering if removing my driveshaft would keep my car from starting in anyway before i go and drop my gas tank for no reason. When i turn the key i can hear the relay turn on then turn off a few seconds later, and i had someone else turn the key to the run position and i listened into the filler cap and i dont think the fuel pump is running. I found the ground for the pump behind the left tail light and i am getting 12v to ground. Any help would be appreciated. Oh and the car is a 1995 sidekick jx 16 valve.

thanks,

Ben
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sometimes you can give the tank a kick or hit it with a stick to get the pump started, make sure the key is on, you have found you problem.
Have done this a few times with sucess, cant hurt to try.
Or pull/loosen a fuel line off at the engine and see if there is fuel.
Be sure to do this outside and have a rag to catch the gas.
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Thanks for all the info here.
95 Sidekick 4 door 16valve 5spd 225000kms
Rebuilt at 223000kms 235 tires.
The rest is stock.
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I too never look to random coincidence when something fails immediately after I've worked on my car. But I don't see anything in your description that would cause a crank/no-start situation. Perhaps you touched something more that you didn't mention? .... When I was checking the fuel pump on my 89 Tracker, I removed the rear bumper to reveal the wiring on top of the tank. Once I identified the hot lead to the pump, I disconnected that wire from the pump, and then ran a long jumper cable from the positive post on the battery to the the pump. It was quiet as a graveyard, telling me the pump was bad.
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Old 09-20-2009, 07:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for the replies. I am now convinced that the fuel pump just happend to die while i was doing the other things. The only other two things i did was check my air filter and my radiator cap was leaking a little and was loose so i turned it a little. I just had the gas tank replaced about a year ago so dropping it in my driveway shouldnt be that big of a deal i would imagine.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hot tommy , best post ever on fuel pumps really good.

my fuel pump page graphs this

yes, hot wiring is the acid test. dead pump.
top fail is wires bad on top of tank too.

yes, smack tank , it will run to the stranding point. heheeheh

it likes you , breaks in drive way. what a blessing.

top reason for failed pumps is clogged filter. just kills it.working against a dead head.

Pump is dead ,now what


bumper off
http://www.kick-fix.com/sensors/Fuel...nk-harness.jpg
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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This sounded odd:
"found the ground for the pump behind the left tail light and i am getting 12v to ground."
Do you mean you got 12V on the ground wire?





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In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP to MPH for the US.
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