No Antifreeze Gettin 2 Core???????

[deeznutts77]

put new core in and new water pump and now no fluid is gettin 2 the core. the 2 lines goin 2 it arnt even warm. is there a passage from the back of the head i should check? need 2 find this b4 winter, its my winter truck.

[riley]

Sounds like it's air locked.............

[kick-fix]

new RAD, or new heater core.? latter im sure.

is RAD going to 180F.
have you ever flushed the block and RAD?

http://www.kick-fix.com/Cooling-engi...er-paths2w.JPG
remove part 20 and look.
and look in back of water jacket for mud.
with a mirror.

[kick-fix]

if you want to see whats wrong.
clear plastic tubing , bypassing the heater core would allow you to see what it is doing.


id have the antifreeze in a bucket and out of the way.
then put water in the coolant system. 100% tap.

start car cold, now pull hose 20 ( running) (have hose loose before.

must blast water forcefullly.

if not , then mud in the jacket has clogged that 20 flange port.

cheers.
aways use water first, after Joy is felt then the Glycol.
dont leak , holds pressure, gets to 180-195 F temp.
etc. (heater works)

[deeznutts77]

awsome , thanks for the info and of course its a pain in the a$$!!
ill check it tomrrow

[deeznutts77]

oh yea there both new

[riley]

I have found that if you replace the core the system will air lock this is how I correct it.....

turn your heater on, with engine running, keep adding water as air is displaced...have the cap of radiator out... do so with a cold engine..keep running your heater at max. and just keep adding water at radiator..after several minutes all air will be out..you will notice that bubbles will stop and water will look calm at top of radiator orifice

[kick-fix]

this is SOP for any rad fill.
the heater has no valve so running it does nothing, the core has only a damper .
the water pump will force water out the rear port, thru the heater core and then back to the suction side of the pump. if the core is cold, its blocked or the pump is running dry. IMO

you could fill the block with thermostat out, and the put it in with the bleed hole FORWARD. .


this car in not known (oem) to need much burping. (no mods)


id fill it , with water then start it with the rear hose disconnected at rear of head.
most squirt like mad.
then put it back and pull the core return hose, i above squirts nothing in world can stop this test from squirting too. (no valves)

if all these tests pass, then the block (water jackets) are dry and your have a thermostat put in wrong or one missing the all important bleed hole.

my 2 cents.

[kick-fix]

use water H2o to test, no toxics , no creeping glycol all over heck.

test , then antifreeze it.

[deeznutts77]

got it. was the hose that connected part 20 to core. blocked right up with sawdust/sand lookin sh!t. all good now and wasent to bad to get 2. thanks