91 tracker barely starts and dies

[Robert58]

Hello to all..... newbie here. I have read and received a lot of excellent posts here that have helped me tremendously learning about this vehicle. Alas, so far I am unable to solve the problem.

1991 Tracker, 1.6L, TBI 5 spd, 4wd, manual

A friend recently bought this vehicle and has had quite a few problems and she has replaced the alternator, distributor cap, new plug wires and plugs, starter.
Battery checked at local auto parts store today and is ok.

The car will almost always start if you leave it set for 24 hours... no gas, just turn key and fires up. It then dies within 20 seconds. The only way to start it now (and only briefly) is to WOT and unflood. Chugs and dies. The only trouble code so far is 44 which I believe is TPS. I checked the TPS and the pot side is acting strange, bouncing around. Ordered a new TPS today (ouch!... no local used part dealers had any)
I was able yesterday to play with cold air intake by opening up the IAC thermo a little and got it to fire up and run like a bat out of hell for about a minute... kind of seemed like something freed up and blew out some black smoke.

Iac.. took it off and gave it 12 v and can hear it snap open. Cleaned it and put it back on.

Iac thermo ...took off end cap with 3 screws and can move the plunger freely. Gave it a couple squirts of cleaner .

Egr main. . can move plunger with fingers. seems to hold vacuum ok.

dashpot... hooked up vaccum and it retracts and holds fine.

ECT ohms seem within range

key on you can hear fuel pump and it shuts off within 2 secs.

fuel injector shows 2 ohms. Took it out and sprayed some cleaner on it.
Tried looking down horn with key on to see spray but don't see a spray. Smell gas when cranking though.

fuel pressure regulator with vacuum applied seems to be ok ( notice pressure change)

MAP .. checks out ok... can blow through the small filter as well.

Computer... Took it out and opened it up. It is a remanufactured and looks like new caps have been put in. Normally sends a code 12 except for the occasional 44.
Things I have not done.

Did not change fuel filter.. connections are so badly rusted I am afraid I will break them) I cheated and put a T in right before the throttle body so I could check fuel pressure. Pressure is 32 with key on.

Have not checked compression (don't have that tool yet)

I assume it is flooding out since I smell gas and only way to get it to fire is WOT.

Thanks for listening and any ideas of new things to try would be most appreciated.

[Robert58]

A small update. I removed fuel injector and used some cleaner on it. Put it back in and rechecked ohms... about 1.2. While the air horn/throttle body cover was off I had someone crank engine so I could watch fuel injector spray.
Seemed like a lot of fuel as tracker started then died within 10 -15 seconds. With this cover off ,will the computer throw extra gas at the car or did I find a problem?
I assume even with a bad TPS the car should still start and run at a high rpm?

Thanks
Robert

[jtgh]

welcome ROBERT !
i agree. tps bad will just cause bad idle regulation.

key on , 5 times, get pressure up to 32 as before.
makes after pressure is high the injector does not dribble. (bad inj. or o-rings cracked)
it must stay off prior to cranking. the injector.

too much fuel or no air.
scratch bad air , cuz iac is open and dash pot is holding open throttle.

great new ECU caps ! good.
i presume you confirmed flooding with spark plug inspections.
wet.

i wonder how long ago car last ran ok, could the gas be bad?

the TPS idle switch calibration is wrong. (or bad tps.)
3 feeler gage test is needed.
TPS testing


bad gas.
TPS showing OPEN during Cranking. not sure of the effect.
i think it will start. is my guess.

i hope no own adjusted the idle stop on the main butterfly plate.. i have spec for that.


ouch , it chugs and dies.
that is odd it wont stay going. very odd.
you may have 2 or more problems.

compression test. is a good check. see if all cycl,. pump air.

i hope EGR is not stuck wide open. or even partallyl,
you need to visua it 1 time , just make sure it is closing inside.
opening up we worry later.

when was last time car ran right.?


what OHMS, ECT unpluged. 2500? or what. cold.

[jtgh]

cold start.

1: tps idle switch closed.
2: IAC open
3: Dash pot holding throttle open (stop screw unmolested by man)
4: ECT 2500 ohms room temp, 10 times less hot. (250 hot)
5: hot spark all 4
6: good compresion all 4 (all low , bad TBELT or sheared crank key)
7: good fuel pressure ( 34.2 to 39.8 keyon NS) 24.2 to 29.9 running.
8: battery at 12.5vdc

map vacuum port is not clogged. suck on vac line pulled from map. should be free.

my 8v would start with dead map but ran rich as a pig as ecu uses TPS to mimic a MAP.

it tries hard to run.
after car starts the map is MAJOR player..
as is IAT , not being off in weeds. ( like reading 10000 ohms)


did someone play with dizzy wires or remove the dizzy?
distributor.

id compression test it now with WOT. pull FP relay.

compression
see depressure link, for relay

[Robert58]

Thanks for previous reply.

New info

Wet plugs after starting and dieing.
ECT ohms 1870 cold air temp here today is around 80
egr closed
IAT ohms 1760 cold
MAP pulled vac line ... can suck air through filter
I have not touched the idle stop screw
Distributor cap was replaced recently also new starter and alternator, plug wires and plugs

bad news on compression check

from front of car to back of engine

plug 1 30 lbs
2 100 lbs
3 105 lbs
4 100 lbs

will have new TPS tomorrow but think there is other issues :O

thanks for reading!

[Robert58]

Forgot to add that while running (15 secs or so ) vacuum was bouncing all over and never went above 5.

[jtgh]

course with dead #1 vacuum is bouncing.
30 psi #1 right?

that is a dead cylinder.

also if you did the Compression test at Wide open throttle, i think you hava slipped timing belt and you have bad #1 valve and or head gasket breatch on #1.

but those compression readings have to be done careful.
crank and look , WOT , all plugs out for max rpm and stop cranking when needle on guage hits max.

the instructions with the guage say all this details.

you cant hurt it, its a free running motor, no worry about valves hitting, pistons.

cheers.

[Richard Craneum]

Needs to do a Fuel Pressure test, for a clogged return line.

He might have to follow my thread there are a lot of good testing there.

Anyway, when was last time the vehicle had a good Maintenance? If is due for that, I suggest to start from there.

I do not think that the compression test was done right. I had like 130 PSIG with a closed throttle and 150 PSIG with the throttle wide open and like 6 cranks per cylinder check.

[jtgh]

plug 1 30 lbs
2 100 lbs
3 105 lbs
4 100 lbs

is that a typo, real, or not done WOT.

i think its bad cycl. time will tell


i aggre 30 is impossible to get with closed throttle. unless it was short stoked too.
1 crank instead of letting it peak.

[jtgh]

how to:

compression