Lost all power

[JLX 1993]

Initially, started with the ground wire to the distributor, replace that... started with no lights on dash, then signal lights, now has no power. What should I suspect/look for?

[jtgh]

this is easy
IS ithis a SPEC. car, factory stock or is it a mod;'d car or Frankenkick.?
which car you working on , you have 2 right? 93 and a 94.
so reading all your posts will not tell me much.

do you have a voltmeter .?

or way worse a test light (i hate them, they dont tell much)

1: fuse? check them with a ohmmeter. (if they look ok, they can be bad for sure)
2: check the voltage at the battery.
3: next at the main fuse box on top of right front finder. 12vdc every where to body ground.
4: does Neg. battery cable bolt to starter top bolt like is MUST.

do you have any power to anything.?
do you have power to the head lights ( always trouble shoot this first if answer is no)?

HL have direct feed. so if they go bad, problem is super simple.

HL>>. switch. >>>>>Fuse box main>>>>, battery

its wired that way for safety so you will always have lights. !!!!!!

even with KEY off.

[JLX 1993]

Originally Posted by jtgh

this is easy
IS ithis a SPEC. car, factory stock or is it a mod;'d car or Frankenkick.?
which car you working on , you have 2 right? 93 and a 94.
so reading all your posts will not tell me much.

do you have a voltmeter .?

or way worse a test light (i hate them, they dont tell much)

1: fuse? check them with a ohmmeter. (if they look ok, they can be bad for sure)
2: check the voltage at the battery.
3: next at the main fuse box on top of right front finder. 12vdc every where to body ground.
4: does Neg. battery cable bolt to starter top bolt like is MUST.

do you have any power to anything.?
do you have power to the head lights ( always trouble shoot this first if answer is no)?

HL have direct feed. so if they go bad, problem is super simple.

HL>>. switch. >>>>>Fuse box main>>>>, battery

its wired that way for safety so you will always have lights. !!!!!!

even with KEY off.

No power anything, lights, windows, locks... nothing, zilch.

[tusong200]

Originally Posted by JLX 1993

No power anything, lights, windows, locks... nothing, zilch.

Does 'zilch' mean no power at the battery?? If so, there's your problem...if not, proceed up the line.

[jtgh]

no head lights.

i have a HL schematic but really not needed.

you battery is dead.? voltage at battery with meter. 12.5v min.
if not it is discharged ( let battery rest 15min, if running reciently< sure i know car is dead)

if you have 12.5v min.
then ok.
now turn on HL, do you still have 12v?
yes, good
no, battery is bad ( the HL ack as a dummy load for the battery)

using this simple and logcial apporach one can walk to the failure every time.


key measurement techiques:

meter probes touching the actual real bettery posts, not the terminals.

why?, i assume all of them are corroded. most are. the terms.

so here is one way to walk it out.

1: connect VM neg. lead to the battery post minus after cleaning terminal to shinny lead in side. (wash hands its lead)
now
2: with neg. lead (black meter on minus )
3 turn on HL.
4: connect red lead to + post of battery, 12.5v.
5: then move lead red to + terminal (cable end)
12v or way less,
connect meter to fuse terms 60,50 and 40 amps as the drawing below shows.

the point where the voltage goes way low is the fail point.
also move meter + red to body ground. if ground reads 12v then the battery Minus cable is bad. (open) causing body to float at 12v +.


if the battery minus cable is suspect
then put the meter from engine block to the minus post of battery
if over 1/2 volt , the engine ground is bad.

HL on, for a nice load, during all tests.

KEY off , we dont have a good body power, no hope for motor.

get the HL going and all will be good again.
i modified this drawing. it now shows the HL path !!! hit F5 key and look.





my no crank page will take you to the same solution.

my server is down again, cant update my photo so , here it is attached.

[JLX 1993]

Originally Posted by jtgh

no head lights.

i have a HL schematic but really not needed.

you battery is dead.? voltage at battery with meter. 12.5v min.
if not it is discharged ( let battery rest 15min, if running reciently< sure i know car is dead)

if you have 12.5v min.
then ok.
now turn on HL, do you still have 12v?
yes, good
no, battery is bad ( the HL ack as a dummy load for the battery)

using this simple and logcial apporach one can walk to the failure every time.


key measurement techiques:

meter probes touching the actual real bettery posts, not the terminals.

why?, i assume all of them are corroded. most are. the terms.

so here is one way to walk it out.

1: connect VM neg. lead to the battery post minus after cleaning terminal to shinny lead in side. (wash hands its lead)
now
2: with neg. lead (black meter on minus )
3 turn on HL.
4: connect red lead to + post of battery, 12.5v.
5: then move lead red to + terminal (cable end)
12v or way less,
connect meter to fuse terms 60,50 and 40 amps as the drawing below shows.

the point where the voltage goes way low is the fail point.
also move meter + red to body ground. if ground reads 12v then the battery Minus cable is bad. (open) causing body to float at 12v +.


if the battery minus cable is suspect
then put the meter from engine block to the minus post of battery
if over 1/2 volt , the engine ground is bad.

HL on, for a nice load, during all tests.

KEY off , we dont have a good body power, no hope for motor.

get the HL going and all will be good again.
i modified this drawing. it now shows the HL path !!! hit F5 key and look.





my no crank page will take you to the same solution.

my server is down again, cant update my photo so , here it is attached.

Ahhhaaa!!! I found the problem!! I moved around the negative ground wire to the starter... the nut was loose. Luckily, didn't shock myself while doing this.

[jtgh]

great.
no shocks , only 12v.
not true from kick backs from 12vdc coils they kick at up to 400v.

keep yah nuts tight.

cheers.

[JLX 1993]

Originally Posted by jtgh

great.
no shocks , only 12v.
not true from kick backs from 12vdc coils they kick at up to 400v.

keep yah nuts tight.

cheers.

Talking of no shocks, I need to replace all four suspension shocks... how much would all four go for?

Hahaha, the cold keeps 'em tight during the winter!!

[jtgh]

Electrical power failure

new page , you imspired me. of you need newer drawings than 95, horrar (saying to all)

shocks , just get them off fleebay, order by top brand names. and PN.
1: find them on flee.
2: look them up at mfg.
3: get pn from mfg cat.
4: then buy them making sure PN matches.

IMHO.