this pointer , says the crank pulley is way off. (belt cog)
to prove this easy , get at TDC linear measure guage.
it screws in to the sprark plug hole. #1
then ,
1: rotate crank CW until gauge stops moving. (clock wise =CC and CCW, you got it, readers.....)
2: mark crank with a liquid paper ink pen.
3: now keep going, and pass over TDC. 50 deg. or so.
now going backwards CCW creep up on TDC again, stopping at the exact spot where
piston stops moving again.
4: paint another mark. at 0 on scale down to the pulley each time.
5 ,the bisect these two points. cut them in half ,
real TDC Key way , is mid way between these two points .
this is the old British motor car and bike way of finding TDC. ( They feared built in scales for some crazy reason)
one can do the same with a plastic soda straw but is far less accurate.
put nothing down hole that can break off in side. (or is not designed for this test, except a flexistraw)
this is the only way to prove the crank key , condition with out looking at it. ( tell me im wrong)
id say your valve timing is way , off ( like 100 posts this year now for just this) sigh.
but do check lash , but id avoid looking at TDC, id make sure each valve is at this widest gap (guessing by turning crank). then measure gap.
i bet it takes 300f heat to get crank bolt off. extra hard loctite. (see their web page for guidance....)
id never do any belt , unless i checked the key.
if something stopped me, (eg over 150 ft/lbs rev. torque on crank bolt, then out would come the British TDC tool.
IMHO.
PS:
always expect this:
Repairing damaged crank and replacing seal. - Page 1 of 1
and
settle for less...... hope springs eternal.
timming 15" off
Linear Mode
